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overdale

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About overdale

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  • Bike
    Beta EVO 200
  • Club
    Hull Auto Club, SDMC

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  • Location
    North Yorkshire
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    Male

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  1. Yes best to buy a seal kit, it comes complete with plunger. You need an 11mm spanner to disconnect the hydraulic hose, fix the hose upright so air doesn't get in, then strip the master cylinder on the bench. Before removing the circlip, clean any crud round that area, then After removing the circling and washer, if the plunger is stuck it can be pushed out with a small screwdriver from the oil outlet end. Then just clean everything before assembly!
  2. If there is load of free play with the adjuster right in, it may be the the master cylinder piston is not fully returning out, so limiting the stroke of the piston. Remove the brake lever and the rubber boot and you should see that the hollow end of the piston (with the small spring stuck in it) should stick out beyond the washer and circlip. If not push in and out a few times and see if it returns fully. If not you need to strip and clean the master cylinder and maybe fit a seal kit. Main cause of the problem is a failed rubber boot allowing water/muck into the outer space round the piston end. If you also need a Jitsie or similar rubber boot kit make sure you get one for a Grimeca master cylinder, as others will not fit properly. Hope this helps!
  3. Go to the Beta UK website, then downloads, look for the year of your Beta 80, and download the parts drawings. You should be able to identify the kickstart mechanism parts you need, then just phone Beta UK ( which is John LAmpkin imports) they are the source of bits in the U.K. IF you don't know the year, I don't think it matters as the 80 engine has been pretty standard over the years.
  4. The standard 300 has a flywheel weight fitted on the back of the flywheel (see picture of when we removed ours), so not easy to see unless you remove the flywheel. Some riders remove the weight to get faster response, so maybe ask the previous owner if they removed it.
  5. Just checked my records and the step on the top hat washer mentioned earlier is 1.5mm, so having the flat to the outside reduces the spring pressure by 1.5mm from having the flat face next to the spring. A standard steel washer is 6mm clearance x 12 mm od x 1mm thick. The washer has to be able to fit inside the spring diameter, so must be 13mm outside diameter or less. If your bike only has plain flat washers to tension the springs it's easy to try a 1mm washer under each of the pressure washers and see how that feels.
  6. The Evo Factory models -at least my son's 2011 Factory 300, had special red aluminium washers to tension the clutch springs. These washers are top hat shaped, a larger diameter brim and a smaller diameter body, By turning them over you can adjust the tension of the clutch springs. Take one off and have a look if you have genuine parts. If the flat brim is towards the spring (with the smaller diameter section visible next to the bolt head) you get maximum tension. If the smaller diameter goes inside the spring, it does not compress the spring so much so you get minimum tension. See photograph attached, zoom in and you can see that the top hat has the brim towards the spring for maximum tension on my son's 300. It is easy to try them all (or alternate ones) in the other position and see the results.
  7. This arrangement has just appeared with the 2017 models and is not an additional vent for the fuel tank. If you look at the pdf attached, the o-ring of the fuel tank cap sits in the recess at the top of the thread in the fuel tank, and that drain/vent connection is above the sealing face. The drain pipe goes down under the left hand side panel and is open ended. I think that the arrangement is maybe for some EU directive to allow any fuel/ mist to go down the pipe rather than spray into your eyes if you remove the cap if their is any pressure in the tank. Just a thought! 2017 Beta Evo fuel tank cap..pdf
  8. The problem with taping the number to the headlight is that often the tape partly obscures the number, the number is distorted by the shape of the light, and once dirty it cannot be cleaned. Just think of the observer if you want to get the correct score! In East Yorks Centre all clubs agreed that transparent plastic number boards should be fitted so that the number can be clearly seen and wiped if dirty.
  9. Thanks to “northyorkie” for bringing this to the attention of Trials Central supporters, I’m surprised that such a prestigious event, which was part of the SDMC National Trial weekend didn’t include a report with results and pictures on the Supertrial, especially as this was also a round of the British Supertrial Championships. As you say, this was also a major result for the Peace brothers as the whole family has put in a lot of dedication, effort, expense (and van engines!) in the UK and abroad to achieve this level of performance to get the results and go some way to repay the support of those who sponsor them. It’s a great result to get three East Yorks Centre riders in the top four to show the level of ability that the riders from this Centre have achieved. From all accounts, the Club is to be commended for a successful weekend as they had put a great deal of work into preparing for both National events. Attached are the results of the Supertrial and some pictures supplied courtesy of John Watson. If anyone else has some photos of the event, lets get them out there and give the lads the exposure they deserve. Scarborough Supertrial Results 040617.pdf
  10. You'll notice that the washer is cup shaped, the bottom of the cup is just a clearance diameter over the fork stanchion, the top is much larger diameter as it goes against the underside of the fork seal. It goes in just that way so that the small diameter sits against the top of the top bush to hold it in place, and the seal sits against the larger diameter. So basically, when the seal is in position with the clip fitted, the bottom of the seal holds the washer in place which in turn keeps the bush in position. Hope this helps!
  11. The standard master cylinders on the Beta are Grimeca, so make sure the kit you bought has "for Grimeca" on the label. I think that Jitsie and Apico have them so marked, then they will fit properly without the use of any glue! Hope this helps!
  12. The 09 was the Evo where some of the frames cracked near the headstock but usually only if stressed probably by the more active rider. I think it was the bare aluminium frame with the fuel filler off-centre, if you have the one with the fuel cap on the centreline, the frame has been renewed or it's a later model and should be trouble free. Any cracks on the older frames can be welded up with the correct procedures. Usually the Evos are very good on fuel consumption if not flooding, your model holds a little less that the later ones with hydroformed tank. The other thing about the 09 was that it only had one vent/overflow outlet boss on the timing side of the carb and the pipe was originally routed downwards behind the engine. Later years Keihins had and overflow and vent tapping at the same point on that side with side one going down the back of the engine and the top one going up under the side panel of the tank open ended. From what I remember of the 09, we ran the right hand vent pipe upwards behind the side panel which stopped it bogging when going down hills. You mention laying it down at sections, even with the fuel off you always lose fuel out of the carb which will increase your fuel consumption, and may even start a syphon when the fuel is on if your overflow/ vent pipe does not have a little vee cut out of it as a vacuum breaker. You can save fuel by fitting a side stand of course. By all means check the float height, it's on the Beta website. All proper overflow pipes have a little vee cut out to prevent syphoning. You can only take the bowl off the carb easily with it inverted as when the right way up, the floats drop and catch on the angle brass overflow pipe fitted to the carb bowl. Sometimes when cleaning the carb, people hold the floats between 2 fingers and bend them inwards a little, this makes the bowl very difficult to refit as the brass pipe fitted to the bowl won't easily pass the float and may even foul it when in operation. You can carefully bend the float out if it has been pressed in and it makes fitting the bowl easier. Hope this helps!
  13. The master cylinders on the Beta are Grimeca, so if you got pins and rubbers meant for another make of master cylinder, the rubbers may have a different diameter and not locate in the undercut. Also some of the pins are 2mm longer and cause problems trying to adjust the clutch or brake as you can't screw them out far enough.
  14. If all the above are ok, are your bars tilted too far forward as this can give the symptoms you describe?
  15. Hi Steve, You will see from the attached photo that the map switch has 2 wires, brown and yellow/red, the terminals connections are covered with some resin. The map switch is wired so that the down position is the "hard" dry condition setting, and up is the "soft" wet setting. From previously checking the switch operation with a multimeter, the down position has the switch closed - hard setting, and the up is open -soft setting. However if you check the unused contacts above where the wires are attached, the switch works the opposite way round. So if you want the soft setting, make sure the wire ends have no copper protruding, insulate each wire end with heat shrink then shrink them together and secure out of the way against the frame. If you want the hard setting, solder the wire ends together, fit heat shrink and secure. Unfortunately the little sticker on the frame of 2015 bikes shows operation the wrong way round (compared to all the previous EVOs) although it shows the conventional way in the handbook on page 21 The blue and blue/white are for the lights, so insulate the ends of each wire to keep them open circuit and secured them.. Hope this helps