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sting32

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About sting32

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  • Birthday 01/06/1966

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    stingre32@hotmail.com
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Previous Fields

  • Bike
    2011 GG Raga 300 Pro
  • Club
    AVTA (Wichita KS)

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  • Location
    Minneapolis, Kansas 67467
  • Gender
    Male
  1. I suggest that the carb is overall lean, the easyest way to start the gasgas pro, is to put the bike in to 2nd gear (turn fuel on choke on of course, everything you do when ready to kick the bike over). With the bike in gear, rear wheel in a tractionable position, rock the bike back and forth, so that you hear the engine move, this is pushing the piston from just below compression to compression, but loads the crankcase and cylinder a little bit with fuel mixture from carb. I do this no less than 5 times. I mean forward and back is one time, do it 5 times if in the 70's aka short sleeve weather, more if colder. when you finish rocking the bike back and forth make sure you stop after making the bike go backwards, take the bike out of gear, prepare to kick it a new way, my way. What has to happen now is that you position your body ready to kick the bike over. You do NOT ratchet the kick lever looking for that high compression spot! you get the foot over the lever, and just now kick with your leg muscles, not by jumping up in the air, and using your body weight mostly, on the lever. I broke at least one of the gears Lineaway mentioned above, on every year model of the 300 from 04 to the 2008, at least once. I have not broken this gear in the last several years due to new technique. My bike will start on the 1st kick every time, doing it this way. it has helped 'timid' women who where standng the bikes on kickstands, bending and breaking those, to much easily start even 250's and 125's gas gas pros... FWIW, IMHO The 300's have mostly too much compression to do the "find the compression" and then kick with your body weight type of kick! the engine if you listen will only turn through compression about 1.5 maybe 2 times... if you do it my way, you kick with your muscles, doing it hard from the second your boot even touched the lever, some sort of refer to it as SLAP KICK, which this really is NOT, but this technique is getting a mechanical, speed, and muscle advantage "aka a RUN at" at the 1st compression of the cycle... This means you line the crotch of your pants to be almost covering the fuel cap, lean the bike closer to your left leg a little more maybe, don't try to hold the bike perfectly straight up if you are less than 6ft tall, and push your leg through the kick with your thigh and calf muscles. if you do this, which I have shown lots of people how to do by taking my wrist strapped kill switch off (no spark) and on my 300, my bike will turn over at least 4 revolutions through the compression, even without spark, the best I can ever do is 2 crappy slow rotations when doing this, 'the up against compression jump down on the lever' (big harley or 500cc or bigger 4 stroke type kick)... IMHO if there was a compression release for that kind of kick, ya'll would have a better chance of starting these bikes, especially the bigger bore ones, which BTW many of the bigger cc "dirt or enduro" bikes do have on the kicker system (which adds weight). I really need to make a video of how to do this, which takes time and another person to capture the vids, but I am sting32 on Youtube, maybe I can make the video this weekend and post it there...
  2. Autotrak2 oils have pretty much been stated cause swelling of clutch materials. this was back in 08 or sometime in history, just sayin, everyone else has moved away from it.
  3. I have had the normal oiled boots for many years, blue, I cannot recall what technically they were called, I wear a size 45 my foot is a 10.5 (usa) and they have alway felt great. they fit my wider style foot really well. I bought a newer pair maybe 4 years ago, that was the greyish or carbon fiber looking, and came with the bootie for the inside to keep foot dry, Maybe some of you had that era of boots? that was closer to last new type before coming back to life this time around? If you saw or had them, you will recall that the shin plastic was kind of shaped like lump sticking out to angular instead of just a flat type shield of the older design. here's the pic, of version like the ones I had, not the color but era/design. I got the same size and all, 45, and found that the foot area was pretty narrow at the arch, and hurt my wider feet, so I had to sell them off and luckily found some barely used normal oiled ones on fleebay. Well all those are worn out, looking at the hew boots by hebo, since I have worn hebo and liked the quality until that one pair. SO, Have you guys worn these and what was fit like compared to the older style good oiled boots?? Or versus say the latest Forma boots? I can wear the Gaerne, but hate them soft gum soles. I am hoping that Hebo went back to the older style foot/sole patterns, and need to know, am I wishing against the possible here? tell me what you think.
  4. I bet, that when you will take the front wheel off, and the pads could then fall out of the caliper, I imagine... I haven't tried it yet, that would be my only worry, and you will just have to put the pads back in and hold them, as those pads dont have the screw that holds the pads in place like rear brakes and older brakes, as far as I know. But, that is all the spring is for, I think, keeping the pads in when the disc is not present. Time will probably tell if they can fall out when pads get too thin?
  5. where do you live? I would call snell in the usa (trialspartsusa) he just might have that info in memory, or a part that he could measure? or dealer/parts supplier nearest you?
  6. your video was not really and testimonial to how the engine runs, lean rich or nothing... I mean in neutral no load, running it like you did, sounds like you want it to sound like a Pipey expansion chambered Motocross bike? you not being used to neither 2 strokes or trials, the bike is going to sound funny to you. have you listened to other bikes on Youtube and such? compare? Our bikes (trials 2 strokes) Operate 99% of the time on Idle and the lower rpms, So for Trouble shooting you might need a buddy to hold camera. what you have to do is put the bike in gear with clutch in, then let it idle down to just barely tick-over. twist throttle, listening to hesitation. As long as the jets are close to correct for your riding altitudes, you remove hesitation by adjusting the Fuel mixture screw on the Delorto. in shuts it down and out allows more in, only does idle and a few RPM's then the jets, along with needle take over. Each of those are trouble shooting with bike riding like you need it to ride in a trials, in gear, idle along then rev up see how fattty sounding it is. it is an easy to learn process, but have GOT to have someone show you, that knows trials bikes and 2 strokes.... after you got those two things diagnosed, then put it in 5th, run the thing from nearly stopped to a really good clip, listen to engine sound/exhaust note. then when you think you have it correct, you check after a while to see if the plug says that the engine agrees with your tuning. it takes a little with to stain a good new plug, longer it tuned right.
  7. did you run the bike without oil in the gas? these older engines, you might find someone that has one they robbed parts out of or something. I know in the states, they dirt bike crowd likes these old bikes, more than anyone doing trials on the old buggers, but I have a 2000 321, still runs and is a good bike, for its dated build,
  8. Loosen the tripple clamps so you can push the fork tubes up a little. the nut will NOT necessarily come off when loosend, these I believe are "cartridge style forks, if memory serves, there is a allen bolt located on bottom on tanks, then the whole cartridge assembly comes out one piece. depends on what you are doing from there, you can seperate the cartridge at part 5 & 6, you have to hold the springs apart a little to get to that jam nut. it is also possible to add to those plastic spring spacers while apart, USA plastic thin wall PVC you can get at hardware stores, make yours longer than the ones already present by I believe up to 1/2 inch overall, if you need to make the front end a bit stiffer, that is for "pre-load" you know. if you are just changing the oil, no need to do any more than losen that cap/nut, then pull down on fork tube to allow you to pour oil back in, after you drain it. Those old forks has a certain amount of oil you can add back in, apposed to having to make a dipstick to set the fluid levels... reread OP, I cant really help with the stuck adjuster, Truthfully the adjustment that screw did, was pretty minute. you can make noticable changes by changing fluid weights I liked 7w in rebound and like no higher than 15w in the compression side. the cartridge will go back in either forks, so sometimes left is rebound sometimes last guy to work on them got them backwards, no biggie... you can tell which is which, when you take spring off, one pumps oil (and resists speedy movement) when pulled apart is rebound, the one that pumps oil pushing together is compression, I liked 7w in rebound, 15w compression, but I was a big 250+ lbs at the time, lighter people might like 5 & 7 or 5 & 5 or 7 & 7...
  9. Eco means leftover 13 engines? 13s had a few where they sourced mains from different source, microscope inspection of bearings that made noise, did NOT explain noise, replaced.with bearings from importer, fixed the sound, if that happens to be your problem? Ours made noise in gear pulling in a ride a section use, hardly tell at.tdle clutch in or neutral, jus fyi. Have had 07, lost c-clip on Kickstart shaft, go through gears between clutchbasket-crank main gear and idler, had to replace clutch basket. I'd source someone to help with problem, usa importer was.awesome with ours, even though the 13's were 1st shipment, and regular bearing was slow to show up, all was madw well, hope same for you.
  10. Just FYI, when you ask questions, or if you read about posts about gasgas trials bikes, your 2001 is at least 2 years before the big engine change, from 2003 on, the newer engines and frames are referred to as "PRO" models yours is the older TXT. spains home website www.gasgasmotos.es Parts breakdowns (adobe PDF files you can save on your PC print or view) are here http://www.gasgasmotos.es/en/manuals/models-1-2001.html gasgas.com, which is usa's gasgas importer website has a "tech" button that takes you to this page, which was very popular when your bike was closer to being new. http://gasgas.com/tech.htm the only other 125, is the MUCH newer Radonne model which are electric start I hear, and 4 strokes, kind of the wife/minder bike all else fails when you need help or info... http://bfy.tw/1Vim (google is your friend)
  11. SO does this also mean OSSA, which I thought the GG factory was used to build them, is lost as well?
  12. Hey Flat track steve, a handfull of RMTA, NMTA, north texas, ks and more or less that region riders, do hang out at ADVrider.com under the trials subforum. might get some attention there.
  13. knocking can be lean condition, wonder if you messed something up when cleaning?
  14. The type of oil you use can change how the clutch works. the effects can vary widely on feel, if by widely I am saying 3 to 8% Sadly, I am from the USA, and some oils I use are because of where I can even get them for reasonable price, and supply so I can get it just about without planning weeks in advance to order it... I use Yamaha's semisynthetic snow-mobile engine oil, 0w-30... I might be a lot more tolerant to a dragging clutch. the better riders like the thinnest quickest clutch grabbing oil, so they seem to enjoy ATF. I really like the 2 posts before me, it is a technique not a service. all I can add is the motoroil types seem to be favorable to new to pretty decent riders over here, and by decent mid levels with knowledge of most techniques... as you get better, and hopping and big stuff, you will have the slipping techniques down, and will migrate back to ATF... Never be afraid to ask, experiment, and report... just make sure you know why, and by that I mean you cant fix mental problems with tools/parts on the bikes, but sometime you can find a trick that helps you a little.
  15. There was huge debate and warnings about the Auto Trac 2 GM oil, Over seas fellas said they caused the clutch plates to swell? I never saw that problem, had the bike at least 4 years, this was back when my family, had my 08 and 10 ragas... we since then, switched to Yamalube (semi synthetic) 0-20 or 5-30, my friend is using mobil1 same viscosity synthetic I think he said. I rode his bike a bit, feels about same on clutch as far as I am concerned. Plus they are cheaper than autotrac2, unless you can get it cheaper than normal people? But, just knowing, and maybe considering it, Might save a problem later, but who really knows. as I said I never saw/experienced the problem that I know of? Swelling (fiber) plates, will make the clutch harder to pull over time as it gets out of "spec" just FYI. hard to know it is harder than usual, until you try another bike's of the general era (06 or newer) clutch that is still in spec and works nice. THe 2013 raga model we have, with newer brand clutch master cylinder is harder to pull (new) than my 12raga, but just so slightly, so just all FYI...