boni_tou_1

I was talking to an older club member about this last week and he said that the rule was changed to current rule on safety grounds, not sure if there is less accidents on the smaller bikes I would not of thought so. My thoughts is they are big another to ride a 250 and they can handle it safely then fine let them ride one.

im going for carb icing also. winther dry fuel or a cap of meths spirts in a gallon of your normal 2 stroke mix should help

Hi Pete I am competition Secretary for The Isle of Wight Motorcycle club. We run an E route on every club trial. The route is run in the morning at the same time as beginners route (but is easier) Age is 4 yrs and up electric / autos Details of the IOWMCC Events are on link below http://www.iowmcc.com/ Regards Calvin

You can track stand longer than me, enjoy yourself thats alot of skill to be learnt balancing without the engine running and you can do that without winding your neighbours up. Enjoy

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/6401-acu-rule-tsr22a-stop-is-a-1-etc/ All things go in circles as they say. One of the clubs I ride with are running their summer trials series no stop and will consult with club membership following this. For the record I prefer no stop because I carnt hope a bike and get cold and bored waiting for a hoppyhoppy to get through a section

if you use an air gun or impact driver on thhat bottom nut should get in off, if their are like most forks should be a you tube of how to do this

http://www.gasgas.com/Pages/Technical/starting%20problems.html Follow this link mixture screw should be 1 to 1 1/2 out from lightly seated. Check all the simple things before you start spending money.

Thas a good point to make I have dropped plenty of yukey oil out of air cooled bikes that has probably been like that after the first ride or power wash. what you cant see can't frighten you. possibley !

We have gone down the pee wee then Ty 80 and then rev at 7yr. Either ways you should get your money back on a ossett or rev 50.1000 might sound like a lot of money for the rev but they can be harder to get hold of then the Ty.

Hi The bolt where the brass washers are would be what is called a Banjo bolt. You could either bleed the brake in the normal way via a pipe on caliper bleed nipple and pumping the brake lever (you tube has many instruction videos on this method.) another option if there is a lot of air in the system, is to reverse bleed via a syringe filled with brake fluid from the caliper bleed nipple into the system until fluid is forced into the master cylinder, then bleed using the first ( normal ) method. Regards Boni

http://www.rctek.com/pdf/fuel_to_oil_ratio_chart.pdf this could be handy to have in the garage

there is an adjuster on top of the carb, turning it anti clockwise will take slack out of throttle.

Many thanks JSE and Faktree I ordered a 118 from BVM yesterday and they recommended a 118 as well Great mind think alike it seems. Trialing this Sunday so happy days are here again

Many thanks for your reply Jon, I think I will start with a 118 as the weather is cold in UK at the moment, can always get a 116 if needed when the weather warms up.

I have mis-placed the main jet from my Dellorto PHBL 26 BS carb Any idea what size it should be. possibly not stock size as I hear they tend to be lean with stock main jet. Pilot is 35, choke is 60 and D270 (atomizer) needle is D36 Many Thanks

I use super market (Morrison's)

what oil did you replace with if it was synthetic it may be to sticky and the clutch plates are sicking together. ATF Dexron 3 is good to use. if you put the bike in gear as it is and make sure you are in a open space the bike will prob move forward if you shift into RD and keep the clutch pulled in then this may free the plates, I removed the clutch plates and did a similar cleaning operation as detailed in Beta clutch fix ( pin top the top of the Beta page of this forum. oil level should be half way up sight glass Hope the helps

The plastic kick start stop in easy to replace, you have to remove the clutch basket, idler gear and kick start shaft to get to it, You will see there is a hole at about 3 O'Clock to the KS stop, I put a piece of cloth in there to stop the little Allen bolt falling into the engine (if it did you would have to split to crankcases to get it out) leave the cloth in there when your fitting the new one. there should be a washer either end of the KS shaft these are important too. washer and bearing should be on top hat. I split the crankcase on mine due to not employing the correct starting method,

would moving the clip up one notch on the carb needle help if it is rich a high revs ? just a guess

Mr Do I owe you one, Checked the area around the Carb with GT85 through a straw, when I sprayed on the topside of the carb engine smoothed out, took top of carb and put a light smear of grease round the rubber gasket round there greased all the other joint in the air in take, and popped it all back together, shes as smooth as a smooth thing now, quick fix, many thanks.

Does anyone know the jetting that will cure the pinging of my engine, I have a Clack in the engine when blipping the engine from idle to 3/4 throttle sea level sunny south coast of England Many thanks Calvin

sorted normal thread, a few good taps with a impact driver and off it came.

Just a quick one the 15 mm bolt in the center of the clutch housing. is it normal or reverse thread ? also what is the best way of stopping every thing moving when undoing this bolt ?. Many Thanks

maybe they lost it an didnt fancy a hole in the crank case for the dirt to get in. TYtrials would be able to supply detent ball, spring and bolt I would think