yamty175

Good point Dadof2. TY175 owners manual: Cylinder taper 0.008mm or 0.0003 inches (new) maximum (allowable) 0.05mm or 0.002 inches. Maximum (allowable) out of round 0.01mm or 0.0004inches. Jon.

TY175 Owners Manual: Piston clearance 0.040-0.045mm or if you're watching in black and white 0.0016-0.0018 inches. This is as new, it doesn't give a minimum or maximum Jon.

Thanks for the replies guys. Jon.

Had to do the hacksaw trick to remove the pivot bolt from the sleeve on the swinging arm. Anyone know the best way to get the old bushes out? Soak them in some noxious liquid, gasket remover, acetone etc? 1976 TY175. Thanks, Jon.

On my TY(175) the speedo cable is held in by a spring clip, then the cable just pulls out. The drive is held on by a circlip (snap ring) in the centre of the hub. It may be greasy/dirty in there so may be hard to see. Dunno if the 250 is the same, hope this helps. Jon.

For future reference, would the same proceedure be used for a TY175? Thanks, Jonny.

Thanks Andy.T. Reaching for my wallet. Jonny.

Has anyone recycled their lighting coil as an ignition source coil? Reason I'm asking is the PO ran without a flywheel cover gasket and everything on the stator plate looks minging. I have a couple of lighting coils on my other TYs which are redundant and I'd like to use as a cheap fix. Thanks, Jonny.

TY serial numbers. http://www.yamahaty.com/english/serieen.html Jonny.

Hi Ivorybull, just wondering if you found a solution to your kickstart problem. Jonny.

Here is another site which lists the TY 80 also. My link

I wouldn't post my engine/frame number in case someone wants to clone the bike. Block out the licence plate if you ever post any pictures of your bike online. You are probably pretty safe with a trials bike though. Jonny.

http://www.tytrials.co.uk/blog/read_12974/date-your-ty.html. No listing fror the TY80, but as your vin starts with a 1 it is probably a C model- 1976. You're probably best not to post your whole number online any where, you might want to edit out the last couple of digits. Jonny.

Hi Ivorybull, just so we're on the same page, my Haynes manual shows the ks assembly to be exactly the same as I have on my bike -1990 manual, page 48 drawing # H.12442. 4MB photo sent. Jonny.

Ivorybull, ...IF...you pm me your email address I will pull my kickstart assembly and send some HQ digital photos. I can even disassemble it and lay the parts out in order and photograph that. I've done it before so no big deal, as long as the return spring doesn't pinch me fingers. New capscrews should be here tomorrow so get on it. Jonny.

Okay, so I just pulled the clutch cover off of mine:(, that's okay the oil was drained and it is up on the bench ready for the Allen head capscrews to be installed anyway. Working the mechanism the only ways that you could possibly have so much axial play are; as already posted, your ks spring is broken, you have re-assemled the shaft incorrectly or you have missplaced a circlip or other component. This is not a good situation as the friction clip (spring) and shaft stop will not engage in their respective crankcase recesses. Also if the shaft moves out 1/2 inch the pinion on the shaft will interfere with the teeth on the clutch basket. Do you have a workshop manual as you have to go through the assembly step by step and make sure it is correct Jonny.

B40RT, where were you planning on using the copaslip exactly? If you are just lubing bolt threads, use the same Aluminium based anti-seize that you use on your spark- plug. Jonny.

Can you put the bike in gear and roll the bike so that the gears separate and release the spring. You may be able to de-torque the basket lock- nut if you put it in top gear, park it up against a wall, apply both brakes, get an extra pair of hands with a long handled bar + socket or an air impact. DAMHIK. (79 TY175 with 2010 NOS clutch basket) Alternately buy a clutch holding tool. Your cheap trials friends will love to borrow it and it looks cool in your toolbox. Jonny.

Don't know about Rotax motors specifically but generally copper based compounds are used as 'anti-seize'. I think it's also good for high heat applications also eg. brake calipers. Grease is for lubrication. Jonny.

Thanks again Alan, I have already plugged the oil feed to the carb. The bike is stripped down and the frame is off to the powder coaters next week, and I am aiming to have the bike back in one piece in about a month. Jonny.

Haynes manual says to remove packing (fibreglass) and 'discard'. Any thoughts? Will I have to re-jet the carb? I have removed the oil pump from my competition machine. Haynes manual says I (may) have to increase the jet sizes 5 to 10% "to allow for passage of the oil, or the engine will be running weak at all throttle openings". Chapter 2, section 12.9. Probably going to run synth @ 50:1. I find this doubtful, any thoughts? Jonny.

Buy her a slower action throttle, Domino make them, maybe some other manufacturers do too. Good investment in your daughters safety. Jonny.

So I removed the rest of the silver paint with some gasket remover and polished the hub with Scotchbrite, 0000 steel wool and finally some Solvol- hub looks great but I see lots of polishing in my future. Jonny.

Thanks for your response Alan, I was really just worried that if the hub was Magnesium it would start to corrode without any clear coat or paint on it. I guess I'll just polish her up. Jonny.

Anyone out there know if the brake hub/sprocket carrier on a '79 TY175 is made from Magnesium. I managed to get some gasket remover on there and it peeled the silver paint off from there pretty sharpish. It looks like aluminium (hand sanded to get the paint to stick?) I know the backing plate is. Any recommendations.. just polish and leave be? Don't want to strip and re-lace the spokes. Thanks. Jonny.