trialguy

Very common bearing, in my part of the world anyway 6004 2RS I believe

Can anyone tell me what the clutch finger height spec is for the 2019 and newer gg pro require. I found a spec for pack thickness, which at 9.9-10.02 mm is slightly thicker than previous. My 20 clutch has become harder to pull and would like to restore the easy pull it did have. Thanks in advance! Absolutely loving the mighty GG

Great to know, thanks so much!

Sorry for delay in acknowledging your help, composed a note but failed to submit. Anyway, thanks very much! I’ve passed on to a machinist friend and am now waiting for the finished product. A little annoyed that s3 has sent a 225 kit which won’t work despite our clearly asking for a 200 kit for our 2017.5 125. Could you provide the part # of the proper 200 kit (175cc) that you received. Maybe that will help me obtain the correct one this time. Also, any jetting changes/ tips required for your mod? Thanks very much, Guy

Hey! That’s awesome, please do share any and all info. Did you just make a thicker version of the stock weight or combine the two? Did you happen to weigh the new one or have a recommendation on a total weight figure? lastly, are you happy with the mod overall and do you feel the increased mass is a necessity with the bigger motor? Thanks for any of your shared knowledge!

Thanks but as I've stated our bike is a 2017 and the weight you suggest clearly describes it being only for 2014 and prior bikes. They are a different ignition and our bike utilizes 3 small screws for fixation of the weight. Thanks though!

Hi, installing an s3 200 kit (175cc actually) on my daughters 17.5 e4 125 txt. I want to also install the optimal heavier flywheel and will likely have this machined custom. Can anyone offer a specific and ideal weight in grams for what this should be. I don’t want to order the generic weight intended for the 250-300 as this would obviously be too heavy for the little bike. I will naturally be removing the factory small disc weight and adding the more substantial one. Will not want to install a cover spacer, should be unnecessary as the 125 ignition is much smaller therefore ample room in there. Any intel will be appreciated. thank you, Guy

Don't usually feel any need to offer my two bits on most of these discussions but this is one I am strongly opinioned on... Hurray!! Get rid of no stop finally. In theory I get the idea of no stop, In practice it is impossibly inaccurate to score. The subjectivity involved makes for an impossible task and after seeing the gamut of rides that are rewarded with a zero score when in fact the rider did indeed completely stop to situations where a rider did not stop, or paused for a millisecond and is given a 5 on what in truth was a more worthy ride than another competitor are all too commonplace. Can you imagine how the scorecards would show if bikes were fitted with technology that saw a gps unit or similar that would register a "stop" (five) , each and every time a bike actually did cease forward motion? Not picking on anyone in particular but I might venture that even the master, Mr. B would end up with double or even triple digit scores with alarming regularity. With focus, any one of us can count dabs accurately, stopwatches don't lie and a riders score can be seen as a true and factual number. Eliminating all the nonsense of "did he or didn't he stop" or "it was just for a second... or was it?" or "man, what a ride, can't stomach giving out a five with that effort..." is the way it has to be if you want to have a contest where the results are meaningful and as close as possible to the truth. One last observation, if a trials competition is a test to determine the person with the highest degree of proficiency on a trials motorcycle then the thought of "fiving" a rider who had the skill necessary to leap backwards after missing the summit of a huge wall or step, land feet up and on the wheels and then go back up and over on a second try, seems somewhat ridiculous. Cheers, Guy

Thanks to all the folks who have offered their insight, it's very much appreciated. Still no resolution, I've gone back to the original stator since it proved to make no difference with the new one. I've made sure the coil is perfectly grounded to the frame tabs by filing all the paint off and using conductivity paste. As well, just for certainty, added an extra ground wire from coil to engine. Running an 18 thou plug gap now and have confirmed all pins and connections are good (apparently). No noticeable improvement and spark still appears pretty feeble. Have the #55 pilot coming in tomorrow which won't help the spark but I pray it helps. Dealer has ordered a new harness which will be tried next as a long shot. still hoping and will update thread at first sign of anything positive. Thanks again all!

Thanks guys, I'll go through the coil grounds (to frame) maybe adding an additional ground wire. May even try my 280 stator and even the big flywheel, not very likely but has been suggested that the small 125 flywheel might not have strong enough magnetism. Somethings gotta give, never been so frustrated with a bike, especially a new and shiny one!

I'm at ropes end trying to sort out a very fussy 2017 e4 gas gas txt 125, bike only has about 5 rides on it by my 13 y/o daughter and it is safe to say that it is impossible to start for her. To her credit, the count of experienced adults who either can't start it or have extreme difficulty getting it lit, is now 5. For some reason I seem to be able to kick it over briskly enough to get it to fire, but this is not a very workable solution as if she's not with me she's stuck with a dead bike. If I'm with her then riding consists of perpetually needing to park my bike to get her sorted everytime she falls or stalls. A ma:jor pain generally. So, here's what I know so far: 1) Spark is very weak, unless you spin the motor very quickly (plug out and with hand or foot on kick lever) Anything less than rapid movement gives zero spark.Comparing this with my 280 of same year shows how weak it is, 280 shows a very nice spark with just a modest movement of kick lever with hand. 2) naturally, have replaced plug, platinum tip etc, made sure high tension lead is making good contact etc. Have swapped cdi *and coil *with the 280 with no difference which led me to the conclusion that the stator must be bad, wrong!! My first rate dealer, Dave of Gas Gas pacific quickly expedited a new hydria stator to me and I thought must have the problem beat but alas it's essentially the same.** As a side note, coil is the same part number between both bikes, CDI is a different #, obviously different mapping but functioned to give a spark (weak mind you) 3)Of course I've checked the carb, thought of trying a 55 pilot but the bike once running is perfect and besides, I'm already convinced the weak spark is the culprit. I'm hoping we can get to the bottom of this because it just isn't right and I'm about to pull my already thin hair out!! Thanks for any knowhow offered, Cheers

Contemplating treating my little girl to the new gg 80 and wonder if anyone actually owns one and can report on how well it works. She's been on a 2010 cadet 80 (72cc) for a year and a half and I feel like the new bike which looks very nice and has a full 80cc gg engine in it may deliver a lot of smiles and satisfaction if she found herself astride one. I know they're expensive but she's worth it and has progressed to being a decent little rider. This new bike would only serve her another year as a 125 is waiting, but life only comes around once. Any actual experience with the radically changed 80 would be welcomed by us. Thanks very much! Guy

Wow, that's quite a read (the Foale piece) thank you to all. One thing for sure, it seems that above all I need to lose the XR yokes and fit something with a lot more offset, reduce the trail significantly. Anyone have an idea how much one would have to lengthen the top frame tube to affect a 1 to 2 degree change in rake?

Can't keep sliding tubes up in clamps as much as might be helpful because of the fender/tire coming into hard contact with the lower yoke as the fork approaches it's bottomed state.(running out of room) With regard to kdx220 piston, yes-bore and pin diameter are right but crown is about 1.5mm higher than ty and would likely hit head at tdc, not such a big deal to machine it lower as there's a fair bit of "meat" on that crown but the bigger hitch in using this piston is the major difference in the rear skirt. KDX has one smallish, round "window" dead centre while yam piston uses two rectangular "windows" for fuel charge transfer. It may have worked but I wasn't willing to take that gamble, thereby ruining a good cylinder by boring it to a size that no further piston options are available.

Unfortunately I've tried sliding the forks up in the clamps a further inch and no improvement. It feels so ponderous that I thought that under load the headstock bearings were binding possibly but they turn out to be fine. I realize that rake is measured at the head but with clamps being parallel with steering head (unlike stock ty clamps) the angle of the tubes is naturally the same as the steering head in this case. Thanks for your inputs, I'll get it right eventually