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neil01

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  1. neil01

    Footpeg mods.

    I moved the lever pivot point down and back by the same amount as the footrest moved down and back. On its own this puts the cable pick up point between the swing-arm and frame, which does not allow the parts to fit, would need the cable length modifying and alters the angle of the cable’s approach to the rear brake. I kept the original cable in its original position by cutting the top section of the brake pedal off and inserting a plate that moved the cable clevis mounting position up and forward by the same amount as the pegs went down and back. I made the cut at the lowest and widest position that I could. It does need shaping slightly to travel around the swing-arm but worked very well once it was in position. It does change the leverage ratio and needs more pressure to apply the same effort at the brake but I didn’t find this to be a problem and the wheel would lock up easily. Moving your pegs back without moving the pedal produces similar leverage problems anyway, unless you take your foot off the rest, as it puts the pedal further to the front of your foot. The plate I inserted was quite wide and presented no problems with its strength. I had my reservations about doing it but I didn’t like the forward and high position of the lever without it. it worked out really well and puts the pedal back to its proper position with very little in the way of compromise. The area between the red lines on the image is the new metal. The second photo shows its new position. It looks like the mounting bolt might interfere with the chain run but it clears without any mods. Neil
  2. neil01

    Tl 320 Bits Needed

    Hi, I've tried to PM you but it won't let me do it. It gave me this response: The following errors were foundThe member b40rt cannot receive any new messages This personal message has not been sent Are you able to send to me the other way? Phil, I'll have a look at that site and see if I can work it out. Does look hopeful though, thanks Neil
  3. neil01

    Tl 320 Bits Needed

    Hi all, I'm trying to find some parts for my bike and seem to be struggling with a few. I need: seat straps side panel screws clutch cover plastic bungs/screws front brake stay to suit Marzocchi forks a kickstart stop (which sounds a bit odd) It's a 1980 model with the plastic tank. Anybody any ideas on where to source these, please? None available from MotoSWM at the minute, it appears. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Neil
  4. neil01

    Swm Info

    I can get into them now. Spot on, thanks.
  5. neil01

    Swm Info

    Loads of good info in those, thanks. Unfortunately I can't open the TL owners guide or the TL parts Diagram, for some reason. Neil
  6. neil01

    Steering Angle

    Thanks guys. No substitute for experience. I've done the footrest position but I can put that back to standard if I want to in the future - the headstock would be a different matter and I think I'll leave it well alone. New shocks and see how it goes, then. Cheers
  7. neil01

    Steering Angle

    Thanks, that was quick! 1.5 deg doesn't sound much but I don't know the effect of a small change like that; did you end up doing it, and if so, did it make a discernible difference? I might just lift the back end with some longer shocks, as they need replacing anyway. I always think they look better lifted a bit at the back and it would keep the wheelbase original, I suppose. Neil
  8. neil01

    Steering Angle

    Hi all, has this info been shared anywhere? I would be interested in having a look, if I could, please. Thanks Neil
  9. Thanks Stork, my coils measured within range with the exception of the trigger which was around 420 ohms. Academic now, however, as the bits came from Lampkin's and having swapped the stator set it started first kick! Result. Thanks for your help Neil
  10. Thanks Stork. I spoke to someone at work about swapping some parts out but he was understandably a little reluctant. He did say though that he had stuck with Beta despite a number of previous electrical problems just because the Beta importer provides such excellent customer service and back-up. I rang them today and spoke to them about it. I have to say they were first class and are sending me a new stator and a new CDI in the post to try out by substitution. They're charging me for both then when I return the faulty part and the unneeded new part they'll give me a full refund under warranty. He did say that they hadn't had any previous CDI failures and thought the stator more likely. I'll let you know how it goes. Neil
  11. Hi Stork, thanks for the reply, it's appreciated. I'm probably misleading you when I said 'kicking it over', I was actually cranking it by hand while trying to keep the probes in place with the other. I'll give it a try with a good kick over and see what it gives. The connectors are all good and clean throughout the loom. What do you mean by 'check to ground'? From the wiring diagram there are two wires from the stator, a blue and a red which both go straight to the CDI connector. This is where I have tested across for both volts and resistance. I'll try to find a substitute CDI but may struggle with that. Thanks again for your help. Neil
  12. Hi everybody,looking for some words of wisdom if you can help me out, please. I have a 2010 EVO which is refusing to start. I took it out a couple of weeks ago and it ran without any problem. Washed it off, sprayed it with some WD40 and put it away. It now won't start. There is no spark at the plug or from the HT lead with the cap removed. I've checked over the ignition system and found some spurious voltage readings to the coil. The stator coils are within their resistance ranges and there is a reading of up to about 20V from the ignition side when spun over on the kickstart (measured at the CDI connector). The pick up coil is also within specified range. The HT cap is rated at 5000ohms and measures at 4500 so is about right. The problem seems to be the power supply to the coil. Leave it a while and kick the engine over on the starter shows a similar voltage reading to the measurement at the CDI connector. Continuity in the cable is good. Connect the supply back to the coil and kick it over, nothing. Remove the supply again and take a further measurement and it now shows 0.2 volts. Immediately disconnect the CDI and measure the output from the stator shows it is still healthy as before. Refit and measure the coil supply - 0.2 volts. Leave it half an hour and the voltage at the coil has increased again. The kill switch is working as it should and the map switch has no effect. The coil primary side has continuity and the secondary resistance is around 5000 ohms. I can get the coil to produce a spark when connected independently to a battery. It appears that under all conditions there is a decent power supply from the stator which then seems to disappear at the coil feed from the CDI. I'm thinking that the CDI unit has failed, or am I missing something? If it has failed, why would that happen? Any thoughts to confirm or deny my suspicions would be gratefully received. Thanks Neil
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