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sharkbait

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  1. Having rebuilt the forks on my '97 315 now I've come to fit the new headset bearings I've found that the top one doesn't slide easily over the thread on the stem tube. It's the right bearing so before I go any further what's my plan of action so as to not damage the thread - heat the bearing, freeze the stem or should it just knock it on?
  2. Hi Nelly The main issue I was having was the fact that i couldn't get the brake side slider out - turns out there's a tube at the bottom that needs removing first which wasn't mentioned on my 'instructions' Paint roller's a great idea..... I'm sure I've got one here somewhere! As usual what started out as a single job has turned into something else - needed new front brake pads also. The head bearings where a little loose and when I had a look at them the bottom one was pretty rusty. Having found out what code number the bearing is I've got a new one coming from eBay - £3.45 instead of £23 + VAT for a Honda one! Now I'm looking at the pegs thinking I'd like to replace them too! If I ever get round to sorting my towbar out we must meet up for a ride and you can laugh at me
  3. Well I've made the tool to hold the tube in place (cut two sides off a 19mm socket) but now I need to find an extension long enough to reach the tube!
  4. Right, to answer one of my own questions....on the left hand fork (brake side) there is a 'seat pipe'/internal rod that needs to be removed before the slider can be pulled out. This internal rod is held in by the bolt on the bottom of the stantion and you will either need the special Honda tool to hold the internal rod whilst the bolt is being undone or you will have to make one as shown in this video
  5. Ahhhh, got it. Yesterday when I measured the bearing I came up with a diameter of 42mm but I was measuring the actual bearing and not the bearing/cup combination which is 47mm. For those that are interested, on my bearing it says it is a 4TCR0574 which translates to a 32005X[26] bearing. Mucho cheapness on t'interweb compared with official Honda price of about £23.
  6. Anybody know what size the taper bearing used in the '98 315? I'm sure they should be a fairly standard one but not been able to find it. 'Official' bearings seem very expensive
  7. So I've got the slider out of the right hand fork, but for the life of me I can't get it out of the left hand side. The seal retaining clip is defo out and I've tried heating the stantion collar with the hot air gun but it's not coming out. Do I need to takeout whatever mechanicals are down in the bottom of the left hand fork or should I just man up and pull harder? Second question is: on the instructions I've got for replacing the seals it goes on about removing the bottom bush from the slider before sliding the old seal, washer, etc off and fitting the new ones - why cant I just remove/replace everything from the top of the slider so i don't have to take the lower bush off?
  8. Hi guys. I'm in the middle of replacing the [Paoli] fork seals on my 315 and I have a couple of questions. So far I've removed the forks and taken the top caps off each each one, but 1) On the left (spring, compression?) side I'm having a problem getting the slider out of the stantion - should it come out using just the 'slide hammer' action with the stantion in one hand and the slider in the other?? Or should I be removing the innards before the slider comes off? 2) On the right (no spring, rebound?) side I've got the slider out but the seal, etc stayed in the stantion, although they did start to come out. Should I just use a screwdriver to prise the seal, etc out?
  9. Ok, so would the bigger 36 idle jet in mine explain why it seems to run better at 2.5 turns out rather than the 3-4 turns out as stated in the (confusing) manual?
  10. Buy a matched pair from feet up trial sports (second times I'mve typed that today!)
  11. I may be wrong here but if the piston is properly seized then you'll need to replace the caliper as the bore 'should' be damaged - in which case you could fit a 'new' caliper. Chances are though that the caliper needs a clean. We do this fairly regularly on our mountain bikesby blowing out the piston with compressed air, cleaning the bore/piston/seals and reassembling with brake grease lubricating the piston. Like I said, I could be wrong but this is defo what I'd do first... you've got nothing to lose.
  12. I've got a PHBL carb for my '97 315 and the jets are currently: Main - 108 Idle - 36 Although it runs OK I was wondering if these are the best combo - what's on yours?
  13. sharkbait

    315R

    You could also try FeetUp Trialsport. I had excellent service and advice from them and they can sell you an exchange matched piston and barrel.
  14. Hi Peter, Yes I found that out today!! So my decision now is how best to fit the PHBL. I'd much rather not have to buy new rubbers so I need the best way to make up the 5mm difference in sizes. So far I've given the carb a really good clean and put it back together - it was filthy. As a temporary measure I've wrapped some tape around the inlet and outlet then added two layers of inner tube to give a rubber-rubber seal. It seems to be working OK at the moment with the existing rubbers but ideally I'd like to source a couple of bits of rubber that I could use to sleeve the connections, so 31mm inside diameter x 2.5mm thick for the carb outlet and 38mm x 2.5mm thick for the inlet. I was also thinking of using self-amalgamating tape as this is quite thick, sticks really well and has a rubbery texture. The bike seems to be running better with the phbl on even though I've not even looked at the jetting yet - it's currently got a 108 main and 36 idle jet, not sure how these compare to the recommended jets. Only potential issue is the slide which seems to have a bit of wear on it, how important would this be?
  15. OK, mine sounds OK... just need to replace the spring.
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