Jump to content

barfy

Members
  • Content count

    288
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About barfy

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    Several Hondas

Profile Information

  • Location
    Berkshire, UK
  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

7,010 profile views
  1. Idlling ideas

    Chatting to someone today about why a plug would burn out the electrode and he said he’d only seen it before when the timing was far too advanced. The timing is fixed by the flywheel pickup and CDI isn’t it?
  2. Idlling ideas

    @pauls320 Thanks for the advise about the jet block. I’ll see if I can blow it out best I can with the airline, if there is any contamination. There is a dealer in Chesterfield, Derbyshire, England that does all of the gaskets for the PWK and they’re only a few ££. I’ve ordered them this evening. I run the oil at about 90:1 on 98 octane pump fuel, normally BP. I’ve ordered some new plugs at the same time as the gaskets.
  3. Idlling ideas

    Thank you @pauls320. Next time I disassemble the carb I’ll take out the never tamper block. I have some tamper proof torque keys. Also I’ll order some new gaskets because they seem quite cheap. I’ve just put it all back together, resealing the inlet and it seemed to be running fine. I also put in a fresh plug to pull it out to see what it looked like for mixture. I thought I’d give it a quick blast up the road where it stopped on me after about 1/2 mile. Then restarted second kick. When I got back I stopped the bike and pulled out the plug. Hopefully I’ve attached a photo to show that it’s running very weak and blown the electrode. It was about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle when it stopped so might indicate I need a bigger main jet but I’ve never seen a plug with a blown electrode.
  4. Idlling ideas

    @pauls320 It has a Keihin 28mm carb. I just whipped off the fly wheel cover and there is no signs of any oil, it's git a slight covering of dust but no oil. Also there is no movement on the flywheel; obviously it goes around both ways but there is no in / out, front / back, up / down movement. So unless someone can tell me why I should take the flywheel off, I think that the crank case seal is ok. It wasn't excessively smoking on, I assume that the other crank case seal must be ok.
  5. Idlling ideas

    @2stroke4stroke I did give that a bit of a try during the trial, about 1 1/2 turn out and all the way in on the mixture screw, but it made it worse rather than better. I think there must be a slight leak somewhere.
  6. Idlling ideas

    I read the recent post from @barfbrianreed62 about his Scorpa not idlling properly and I'm going to have a closer look at the bike tonight, but I thought I'd ask about possible areas to look at first. At the weekend my lads 125 Twenty started to not idle became inconstant when closing the throttle. It's done it a couple of times before and I've given the carb a good clean which has made it better. I'm beginning to wonder if it is hiding another problem, because this is becoming almost every trial. The air filter is washed every trial, including for this weekend. I've not changed the jetting and the mixture screw is at about 3/4 of a turn from being fully in. Are the 125s very susceptible to crap in the carb? Tonight I was going to clean out the carb, clean and reseat the inlet manifold. Pull off the flywheel to look for any signs of oil seepage in the crank case seal. Look up the exhaust outlet for any signs of something iffy in the piston, well make sure it looks shiny. If there anything else that I might want to check?
  7. 315 fork clams / yokes

    Been away for a few days. I thought so as well @rotors7 and my 4RT has steeper parellel to the headstock yokes. We can’t both be wrong. I suppose my question was “is it a feature of the headstock or the yokes”?
  8. 315 fork clams / yokes

    Not strictly a Montesa question, but I’m running a Showa 315 front end in my RTL so I can have some affordable front pads. I noticed when I washed the bike yesterday that the yoke / forks seem to be slightly raked compared to the frame header; i.e. not parallel. So I compared to my sons Scorpa 20 and my 2015 4RT which seems to have parellel forks to yokes. Which I assume mean parellel yokes / fork clamps. Do later Montesa’s have parellel yokes / fork clamps? If so does anyone know from what year 315? jstbwondering if it’s a function of the frame header rather than the fork yokes.
  9. AJP Front Brake Rebuild

    Got it all together now and it’s working much better. See what you meant @craig10about the lip in the groves. Not so spongy as before although still doesn’t stop as sharp as I’d like. Put in my sons Scorpa Twenty front wheel with the same brake setup and it stops really well so I think the next purchase is a disc. Probably a NG / Scorpa or Dabs disc because they look like they have more braking surface.
  10. AJP Front Brake Rebuild

    Thanks guys. I’ll give it a go over the weekend.
  11. AJP Front Brake Rebuild

    Hi, My front brake wasn't working too great so I decided to give it clean and one of the pistons was seized so I bought a seal and piston kit. The new pistons seem to drop in nicely without the seals so hopefully should make for a much better front brake. I recall seeing on here that the seal are kind of wedged shaped and they should go in a specific way. However, looking at the seals they seem to be square. Is there a specific way that the seals or put into the caliper other than with some brake fluid for lubrication? Cheers
  12. Best Levers

    I use Amal replica levers which are a bit cheaper than Domino. Agree though that the cable condition can make a lot of difference. Keep the cable well flushed with lubricant and replace if it looks kinked or has signs of fraying.
  13. RTL 250

    What age RTL is it? On the twin disk model a Montesa 4RT, Sherco, etc. sprocket will fit. I run a 9 to 42 setup but this does need a 1/2 link.
  14. 4RT mudguard grills

    How do you stick in the little grills on the mudguard? I’ve cut some from some 1mm grill material and tried sticking it in with bathroom sealer and duct tape but they work loose during a trial. Seemed to work ok with silicon sealer on my 2007 4RT but not as good on this 2016 model. Being from down south I think it’s worthwhile trying to stop the mud getting into the air box. If you have any photos from the underside of a 2014 or later sowing how to fix the grill that would be perfect.
  15. 4RT rear mudguard sticker

    Thanks Section, I like my bikes to look neat. I hope it distracts the observer for when I have my feet down. Anyway thanks for the advise. It’s all done and although some small bubbles where the crease is in the mudguard under the sticker it looks ok. Well I’m happy with it.
×