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About al_orange

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    2001 Beta Rev 3 270

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  1. What have you done to troubleshoot it? Pads contaminated? Needs bleeding? Pedal adjusted incorrectly? Sticking pistons?
  2. Sheepy - out of interest can you jump clean on top of it by using the double blip? I know you're trying to learn the zap but if you get the double blip first then you can add in the clutch. That way you can separate the jump and the clutch aspects and nail both.
  3. It is just semantics but it's much easier if people use the correct/same terms. As a novice I find it very confusing myself. So... a Roll Up is when you simply lighten the front and use throttle to ride up and over an obstacle. E.g. an 8 inch log A double blip is where you lift the front wheel into the obstacle and use a distinct second blip to drive the front wheel high so that the rear wheel rides up it without impacting the skid plate and without making the rear wheel hop off the ground. E.g. an 18 inch ledge A zap is a double blip with the assistance of the clutch and a more physical jump to get the rear wheel to hop into/onto the obstacle. E.g. an undercut ledge or big pipe. Is that close enough? They seem to bleed into each other and you can obviously use a double blip in the majority of cases. I've also read that the height at which you land the front wheel makes a difference in terms of lift and if traction is poor but are the basic techniques as above? Personally, I tend to do a zap without the clutch (or a double blip with rear wheel lift).. so I'm not sure what I should actually be practicing..
  4. Lol.. I've no intention of selling it. It's maybe worth a few/two hundred as it runs fine and has good tyres and brakes so I'll just hang on to it. My missus can use it for a bit too. There's something liberating about having a bike that owes you nothing but still starts second kick every time. And although that list is long, there's an equally long list of all the new parts and work I've done on it.
  5. Thanks. I did see a post of theirs advertising a load of new stock but I'm down south so it's a bit too far.
  6. It's all totally off topic but actually, I'm trying to allow myself a bit more indulgence rather than squirrelling it all away for the day I may need some fictional amount of money. I wouldn't even be considering a new bike normally. To be fair, apart from the oultlay on the bike, trials is amazingly cheap.
  7. I just mean that if I am to carry on doing trials then it's inevitable that I'll need a new bike but I'm pondering if it's worth doing it now (I.e. will it help me improve) or wait until I'm a clubman/B. I certainly don't have a money tree! At this point in time I am fortunate enough to be able to consider buying a new trials bike if I feel it's worth the investment. I will check out the nearly new (1-2 year old) market too.
  8. Loads of great advice there chaps. Thanks a lot. I will try my best to get a go on something newer then. I'm also going to a 250 from a 270 with a flywheel weight so there will be a lot to get used to. I am always amazed at what my old bent bike will do but perhaps he's had enough: Shot swing arm bearings Saggy shock Bent subframe New pegs and hangers but the frame itself is sagging! Leaky rear wheel Bendy rear disc No graphics Dodgy jetting Worn sprockets Dirty air filter Brand new piston and replated cylinder that were promptly drowned. And the handle bar brace squeeks when I go down hills.. And that's after I've spent more than the bikes worth and more hours than I can count doing it up! Still, it just keeps on going and going and I enjoy riding it.
  9. So at novice level, would I benefit from the correct springs? In enduro it makes a massive difference so I assume it would be of benefit ti turning and grip? There are a handful of nice looking bikes out there. I should have a look. I'm just a bit funny about 2nd hand bikes. Always that nagging feeling that you don't know what it's had done to it.. plus, I know my rev really well but I don't know if I know enough to look at another one. Random question but have the known issues with the engine case and the stator been fixed in the newer models?
  10. Lol... yes... but would I even notice? I'll have to get a go on something I guess.
  11. Thanks! I did see them but I thought they couldn't be serviced and/or I'm stuck with the standard spring?
  12. Thanks for the feedback. I was expecting a bit more "it's you, not the bike".. which it mainly is but good to hear that a newer bike is appreciably better. I was looking at a 16 Evo 250 but in a very out of character way, my missus said "well for that sort of money you should just get a new one that you know 100%"!! I was half way through explaining that 1500 quid is quite a difference before I realised and shut up. I do need to have a go on something newer but my mates have 07/08 and no stranger is going to let a crappy novice have a go on a new bike! I'm definitely sticking with beta though so that makes life a bit easier. So if it's not a stupid question, what are the main real world differences between a 17/18 evo and an ancient Rev3?
  13. So I've got a beat up old 2001 rev 3 270. I've spent a bit of cash doing it up and it runs fairly well, the brakes are fine and I've serviced the forks. However, the swingarm bearings are shot and I expect the shock has had it. It's the age where I can't get the shock serviced so have been living with it as I'm just a novice anyway. However, when I see other people's bikes and their suspension just looks so much more responsive, I do wonder how much of an affect it's having. I'm also 230lbs so would prefer a stiffer spring but cannot get one for my bike. I notice that over rocks, its pretty fine (probably because it's so unresponsive) but it does struggle for grip in the mud and it doesn't turn thay well because the back is overloaded. Now of course, my ability is the limiting factor and I'm well aware of that but at what point does a newer bike (I.e one with the correct springs and a serviced shock etc.) actually make a difference? I keep dipping in to trials (every year for a few months) but I want to give it a proper go this time. Should I persevere with the old horse or bite the bullet and get a new one? (Money isn't a massive problem but I don't want to waste it either). Ta.
  14. Just going to add some points from the perspective of an adult novice in the South West UK We have at least 5 clubs running events within an hour of me so maybe we're spoilt but I've found club Trials to be: Easily accessible, very frequent, friendly, well run, very cheap, safe, and cover the complete spectrum of very easy to ridiculously hard for a novice. So in short, if I want to do trials then I couldn't be better placed. However, the one real obstacle for beginners is that trials is HARD. Really hard... It requires a lot of patience and determination to get anywhere near good. Even then, you basically can't improve unless you have somewhere to practice and someone to teach you. Unfortunately, it's taken me a long time to find somewhere to practice but I can't find any good instruction. Even on here and on videos or with paid instructors there is so much conflicting information that it's sooooo hard to improve. I paid to go to a couple of "good" instructors but they didn't actually teach anything of much use. Just about every year at some point, I get really motivated, go to a handful of trials and get a tiny bit better but then get frustrated because despite trying hard I just do not know what the hell I'm doing! Then I end up losing interest and are back to square one again. So yeah, if you're the kind of person that just got the trials bug then I'm sure it'll stick. Or if you're the kind of person that is either a natural or just doesn't care how good they are then that's great. But for most people, I think the learning curve is too steep. We have local clubs that put on beginner routes and I think that's the best way to get people to join/stay but it's always going to be limited by the fact that it's hard to do and beginners don't like hard. People forget very quickly what it's like to be a beginner sometimes.
  15. You're absolutely right here! I couldn't get the roll up right so thought you always needed to lift the rear but today I was shown the difference and was amazed what I could get up without jumping.The thing I needed to do was let off the throttle sooner and get right forward as the bike went vertical.