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check fuel filler cap breather is clear
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you are missing the point it is the double wire connector on the loom that gave trouble not the kill switch connector, any problems give lampkins a ring they are very helpful
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posted this one some while ago ,on our 250 evo it was the kill switch connector on the loom, not the kill switch itself, part the two wires &fit after market killswitch, the connector is behind the headlamp
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this is normal for gas gas pro
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i had the 07 320 i blanked off hot start device, threwaway plug cap &lead fitted old style plug lead & push on car type plug cap starting then was a lot better but you really needed to lean on a tree, get high on the kickstart & give it a good hefty kick.glad to see the back if i am honest which is a shame because it was fun to ride
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sounds like you have got it spot on, enjoyment is the main thing, skills will come in time
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i remember frank riding sidecar scrambles at biggen hill, he was very good .i cannot remember what bike he rode but i do recall the bike had unusual forks
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rotax kart baffle pipes are easily obtainable on ebay or kartshops not sure of diameter though
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putting longer shocks on rear will steepen head angle. i done this on a348 mont & it worked well
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i thought it was ignition too retarded too close to tdc can run either way
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i have been using a michelin x lite on my 300, pro it grips very well & no sign of wear, this is on mainly muddy sections ,they grip better than the x11 and about the same as irc
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clever pieces of engineering these bikes are, but bantams?well i rode in the 50s&60s & i never saw bantams like these, they were a joke in my day,in my opinion it would be cheaper to stick bsa stickers on a modern bike & cut out the middle man, that should stir them up, ahbuurr the real sound of a bantam
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definitely trapped air in system remove caliper hold it above master cylinder &pump fluid uphill, it works every time you can pump allday down hill &never shift trapped air, good luck
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the evo shock is marginal longer but i found the stroke of the piston rod was considerably different, not quite sure how this would work, best to stick to original set up
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remove the master cylinder from handle bar place it lower than slave cylinder so you are pumping fluid up hill then bleed out in normal manner i find this method works for front &rear brakes as well
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i had same problem with my 2010 pro, grip spline end in vice gently warm lever with blowtorch &gently ease lever outwards, remembering it is alloy not too much heat & its gently gently do not over do it, does not need much to clear casing
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almost certainly moisture in carb or cable freezing,best way to stop revving engine is to stuff glove or something similar up exhaust tail pipe that stops them
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first time for me, bought a crash helmet for good price, enjoyed show talks,sammy firing up the porcupine was awesome, yes definitely going next year
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try enduro bikes on ebay i think they are called tugger straps ,i made one out of an old car seat belt which worked & looked ok
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try the stop button connection behind the headlamp remove loom connector part the two wires then fit after market kill button this cured same problem on our 250 evo
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make sure earth wires are disconnected ,a bad earth on welder connection could put unwanted power throughbike wiring, play safe & disconnect everthing
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