shercoholic

Did you get it sorted? If you changed the oil before your last ride and added more than 450 the excess may be pumping out the breather hole. Keep us posted on progress. Cheers.

Updated link http://shercousa.com/?page_id=328, or start with the Sherco USA website http://shercousa.com

Congratulations on picking up your first trials bike. Where in Canada are you located ..sounds like out West if there is a forest fire advisory. Lots more info on the Sherco USA site under the documentation link. http://shercousa.com/?page_id=328 Good luck with the Sherco.

Cannot find the original trials version but this Pre-65 one currently working https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wLWKQ55EQr4

Item 34. Screw Part# 5505

I have some extra frame and fork guards. Where are you located - Canada or USA?

Best to keep an eye on the chain and sprockets in the future, as with the standard 9t c/s the chain plates are working hard, and the torque of the 320 is tough on those six little splines ...but then who doesn't love torque! (maybe not ND)

Duke said NO they are not producing one for 2013, but they do offer the 2013 FIM WC Outdoor Review

Hello Scorpa01, Please check your Messenger Conversations for pm. http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/kickstart.wmv.

What colour is the spring? Jitsie are usually orange (TRP printed on spring), and have a separate damping adjuster ring other than the spring adjusting collar(s). The standard Olle or Sachs would have a yellow or red spring and not have the damping adj ring. If the screw is very small it may be a damping needle adjuster. Jitsie shock has threaded removable top mount - remove with caution. Olle not considered rebuildable without suspension shop type tools, and addition of Schrader valve. YMV as without a photo we cannot tell if original or modified. Google Olle and Jitsie to compare.

Does your comment really offer any help to those who own and really enjoy riding the Sherco 4t?

Hopefully photo link now works in previous post?

The 2012 brochure lists the specs for the 320. TooFastTim posted a photo of the 2011 from the EICMA show in another topic last year on this forum "New Sherco 320". In the meantime here is a photo of the 2010 version Thanks Tim

Climber I think the problem is a steel drain bolt not the aluminium filler plug if we are talking 2t not 4t? Are there enough threads left exposed inside for the broken drain bolt to catch? If so then an extra drain washer might keep the oil in without the broken drain bolt coming up against the snapped portion. Just to get you through tmrw, or even a tapered dowel, or if desperate then the dried up left over conical plug from inside your silicone tube nozzle. If the broken bolt spins freely then a reverse helix drill with a long shank sounds like the next option. Good luck

....You forgot to mention the significance of the complex cosine calculations used to determine the correct triangulation before being moulded into the radguard.... elastic band indeed! Looks like the fuel tank has a new profile without 2010 filler blank, also with a different fuel pump mounting position and fuel tap as mentioned. Rear shock absorber looks different (polished and ported?) and now has 100th SSDT replica style shock mudflap. Not forgetting the new colour for the dab of 'lite' paint on the masterlink!

Short of sticking your finger in the plug cap for your morning jolt, ...then give Chris Pearson a call at Splatshop as he is always really helpful, and I believe he has the stator readings, or he can give you the Bradford Motoplat info.

Before you tear into the wiring loom and disturb those important ground wires. Check the plug for a spark ..even if feint. Is the plug dry or wet? Even though the carb was cleaned is the bowl full of fuel? Maybe a sticking float valve, or a vacuum in the tank. Sometimes stopping for a few minutes is enough time to fill the bowl up until the next time it runs dry, or until it creates another vacuum. What year is the bike? Didn't I read you were on a 2010. If so check the vacuum pump is pumping when you kick the bike over, ...but careful to point the outlet hose away from the exposed plug sitting on top of the cylinder head! (Sorry Tony you beat me to it!)

Isn't rear cylinder offset by forward fuel tank so center of gravity will move lower during a ride, but not down and back as with conventional tank layout. Maybe it will slop less out the breather tube being more vertical. Will the tank help to keep the muck off the rad when flat out across the moors, or will it get in the way of cooling? Very interesting frame bonding of thin tubes and castings and forgings, so pack some Araldite and leave the oxy torch at home. Seems like we have we forgotten how much slack the Monty took for being phat. Wider stance is back in fashion but wide frame too - bring your knee pads if you ride over logs! What is the verdict on the Torx screws? Best to stop relying on your mate carrying the right spanners in his bumbag. Smooth suspension and smooth power so sounds ideal Clubmans bike, ...for those that swear they didn't get better results when they rode a Fantic 200 ..especially them that are old enough to have ridden one, but too old to remember. Poor lad that Fajardo who is stuck using his hollow legs to add some exhaust pipe length to get some more grunt for the big hits. There is absolutely no truth to the rumour that he missed Sheffield as his new gear sponsor (Burn?) cant keep up with the bills for melted trousers - groan! Good on them for trying something different and keeping bench racers from having to shovel yet more snow. Over to you Ishy.

EDIT. The link no longer works as the video has been removed from You Tube. Still works today

4 days in and a long way to go but even so 2nd on Tuesday, 2nd overall.

Curious why wont it fit? Rear mudguard shape changed for the 2006 model but the earlier ones all had the wider profile.

It was also 12" higher, made of plastic and the shock rubbed through it!

Production rad is narrower. Much tighter steering lock without wraparound frame in the way Bike is much slimmer in the flesh than in the photos.

With 10 pages of research since April it would be a great help to others to list the items that you changed that fixed the problem. Maybe even remind us how it all started out - a problem adjusting the mixture on a Keihin PWK28 fitted to a 250? Thanks for keeping us posted with your progress. Here's hoping your perseverance finally paid off.