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The forged Apico levers fit AJP and Braktec master cylinders (6mm pivot pin) using the supplied plastic bushes, and Grimeca master cylinders (8mm pivot pin) when you remove the plastic bushes. You should also check the pivot pins on your master cylinders, if they are worn you can buy new pins from Beta UK.

While you’ve got the clutch cover off, check the round kick start idler gear which sits behind the clutch basket. They get damaged, and need to be replaced fairly frequently. A damaged gear can make a noise similar to your bike. There will probably be more swarf on the filler plug magnet than the drain plug magnet. Failing that, it could well be the small end bearing.

The crack in the frame is only going to get worse the more the bike is used. You would be better talking nicely to the Beta importer and seeing if they’re willing to help (bearing in mind that your bike is over 10 years old), or buy a second hand frame from a 2010 onwards model. It doesn’t take long change everything from one frame to the other.

This should help:

I had the same problem with a clutch master cylinder on a 2017 Evo. The piston was sticking in the master cylinder bore, I had to remove the hose and use a screwdriver to push it out. I put a new piston kit in which lasted about 9 months until the same thing happened again. I suspect that the rubber piston seals are swelling up over time and causing the piston to stick, as there's no evidence of damage to the metal part of the piston or the master cylinder bore. I’ve just replaced the master cylinder with a new one which is working fine.

I’ve seen this on a new Evo before. There was slight play in the headstock even after tightening the stem nut on to the top yoke (obviously after the top yoke pinch bolts had been slackened). There was not enough adjustment on the threaded stem to remove the play. I contacted Beta UK who said that some of the Evos were fitted a shim washer between the top yoke and the inner race of the top tapered bearing. I used a 20x35x1 washer, Beta part number 00277348 which sorted the problem.

The cylindrical plastic spacer can get stuck in the fork tube. Leave the conical spacer out, back off the preload adjuster screw, put the top nut on a couple of threads and push down hard a few times on the fork against the spring. You should hear a clunk when the spacer moves. Chamfer the outer leading edges of the cylindrical plastic spacer before you refit it, but it’ll no doubt need the same technique to remove it the next time you do your fork seals. You’ll get a shock if you price new plastic spacers from Beta!

Hi Stuart, a lanyard kill switch is a direct replacement for the original kill switch which was fitted to your bike. Disconnect the original kill switch and connect the two wires from the lanyard switch into the same connectors in the wiring loom. You might have to change the connectors on the lanyard kill switch to match the loom connectors, or solder the wires together. It doesn’t matter which way round the lanyard wires are connected, as the kill switch shorts out the coil live feed to earth.

It’s very unusual to have scrutineering at trials events, other than ACU Championships and bigger events like the Scott, the Reeth 3 Day, etc.

I’ve attached the wording regarding helmets for trials from the ACU 2018 handbook, TSR12 and also the ACU helmet advice. There is no requirement listed for an ACU sticker on a trials helmet, only that it is road legal. Most trials helmets comply with EC22-05 Homologation standards. There is a tag on the helmet strap to show that the helmet has passed the EC22.05 standard.

Gore-tex products need to be machine washed and tumble dried to maintain their water repellant qualities. https://www.gore-tex.co.uk/gore-tex-wash-instructions

It was only the Rev 3s which had this problem as they were fitted with a magnesium alloy outer casing. The Evos have aluminium alloy casings so don’t have corrosion issues with this casing.

I think this is the one you’re looking for: https://jbanyeres.com/en/chassis/2601-bolsas-sobre-deposito-universales-para-moto-de-trial.html

It sounds like it could be a broken gear lever return spring to me.

The kill switch just shorts out the two wires, so it doesn't matter which wire on the kill switch goes to which on the wiring loom, as long as you connect both. Either cut the connectors off the kill switch, and crimp on the correct terminals, or bare all 4 wires, twist the pairs together, ideally solder them, and insulate with heatshrink or insulating tape.

In the top photo, it looks like you’ve got the wavy wire clip wedged between the seal and fork stanchion. It’s meant to fit around the groove on the inside of the fork slider.

It happens because the bike is not going into second gear properly. I've found that this is usually caused by the clutch dragging slightly even with the lever pulled fully in to the bars. Bleed the clutch to make sure that there is no air in the clutch hydraulic system, and it’s worthwhile trying a different gear oil from the one you’re currently using.

Hi Matt, there is a practice venue south west of Glasgow, between Neilston and Dunlop. It’s open every Saturday and has great facilities including a workshop, toilets and a cafe serving home made food. There are always friendly members on site who will give you advice and encouragement. Search for Bob MacGregor Trials Academy on facebook, you don’t need a facebook account.

Beta do recommend a 7.5 weight fork oil, but most people, including myself use 5 weight oil.

Apico make two types of lanyards, one for petrol bikes which is normally open circuit with the magnet applied, and switches to closed circuit when the magnet is removed. This type has a black grommet where the wire enters the switch housing. The Oset type Apico lanyard is normally closed circuit with the magnet applied, and switches to open circuit when the magnet is removed. This type has a red grommet where the wire enters the switch housing. The top picture is the petrol engine type, the bottom picture is the Oset type with the red grommet.

The 4T sidestand bracket is in stock at Beta UK.

If you’re thinking about the SSDT, the Beta 125 is a great bike and more than capable of completing the event. I know a few youths who have finished the SSDT and Scott trials on Beta 125s with excellent results. If you’re looking at increasing the capacity after the event, it’s much easier and more cost effective to sell the 125 and buy a bigger bike. You could also look at hiring a 125, but it isn’t cheap, and you get little time on the bike before the event.

You should be able to undo the top shock mounting bolt and turn the top of the shock through 180 degrees as trapezeartist says. If there’s not enough room, try dropping the swinging arm down until you can rotate the shock, or move the airbox back.

It should be just in front of the airbox, at the point where the shock bolts on to the frame. On the earlier bikes, you can get to it by removing the rear mudguard. On the later models, it can be reached by removing the air filter cover. Adjust with a spanner, clockwise to increase damping.