dpyam

This issue is known about on the Yamaha RD 2 strokes of the 1970's so seems to be a Yamaha 'feature'. By the filler on the RD's it says "1500cc" but if you perform an oil change and try and put 1500cc of oil in, it will show on the dipstick as massively overfilled. Going for a short run and re-checking means the oil level shows as not as badly overfilled but still over full. From experience you learn to put about 1200cc in and that's usually about right. Oil seems to sit somewhere that never drains out. I've never filled a new/rebuilt engine so can't comment on that.

If you’re new to motorcycles my suggestion would be to learn to ride on something with a seat. Learning to ride standing up adds all sorts of complications. Consider a ‘twin shock’ bike like a TY175 maybe, if you’re okay with a bit of spannering on an old bike.

As mentioned a while ago in other posts, Aspen fuel, while expensive is at least free of ethanol and so can be used in fibreglass tanks.

I’m not a member of them but try the VJMC - I would think they can help for a small fee.

Surely the nose weight rating of the car is the downward force the car's towing 'setup' is designed to cope with. The car's metal won't care if the force is a trailer, a bike rack or a large person standing on it. I'm sure the car manufacturer allows a safety margin, but if this limit is exceeded, while the tow ball/arm will be fine, there is a risk of the relevant parts of the car it's attached to failing/snapping, leading to your bike bouncing down the road. Note also that with a bike rack, the force is not always vertically down. The combination of tow bar and bike rack act as a lever on the towing mount, increasing the forces involved when you go over a pot hole. Please note I'm all for a bike rack setup. I once had a DC bike rack (an excellent piece of kit) bolted to the back of an old Land Rover (directly to the ladder chassis via a genuine Land Rover mounting plate) and it felt like you could have had 1/2 ton hanging off it. But modern cars are designed with every component being as light weight (read 'thin') as possible, so I'd not want to exceed what weight the car's manual says it's designed for. It just gives anyone else's insurance company an excuse not to pay out.

You will also need to richen the mixture a little if moving to premix, as some of the volume of liquid in the jets is now oil, whereas before it was pure fuel. It’s more of an issue on bikes revved hard than trials bikes, but worth bearing in mind if the bike feels a bit flat after the conversion.

My TY175 is road legal and I just added it to the Carole Nash policy for my road bike - job done. I've never had to make a claim so can't comment on that side of things. Hopefully someone else can help if your bike isn't road registered.

Yew wood think there’s no chance it woodwork but it mitre just.

When he got to the top without a dab he said “nailed it”.

Maybe he was pine-ing for a rigid rear end.

That's looks like a good unmolested bike that should respond well to some TLC, and yes, with the optional lighting kit - mine also has these lights and I have a UK "MOT" so I can ride day and night on it ?, not that I go far on the roads. Does yours have a horn? Mine didn't and I found out the hard way the electrics are unregulated AC (nominally 6 volt) so it needs a special AC horn. And the bulbs need to be the correct wattage. Also if you over-rev it the bulbs blow as there is no voltage regulator (or rectifier)....

I use Aspen fuel in my TY for running and storage - it has none of that nasty water absorbing ethanol in it. It’s expensive but the best things generally are.

On mine even with the correct puller it was difficult - I wouldn't even attempt it without one. The TY type pullers aren't expensive in the great scheme of things, like less than a tenner. And then cobble something together to hold the flywheel. 2 foot of Dexion angle iron, a TY front brake arm and a couple of long bolts work for me, but I'm sure there are more elegant solutions! There is a Haynes manual for the TY which is worth having.

Just joining this thread. I had a DC bike rack, and when connected to my LandRover (with tow bar bolted straight to the chassis) it was a great - an agricultural strength set up. However I would say a swan neck tow bar (with or without additional contraptions) is totally unsuited to a DC bike rack - to the point of being highly dangerous. A swan neck might be able to cope with a bicycle rack, but certainly not a trials bike, where the huge leverage on the swan neck/car mounting (forces way beyond what it was designed for) means something will break in no time, meaning the trials bike will soon be bouncing down the road. :-(

I agree. It makes perfect sense to me too. People who don’t get it still think adding extra oil to the tank is a good idea, and I try to talk them out of it. If i feel i want to add extra oil i take the plug out and put a few drops in the plug hole and leave it a while to work its way down.