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samwisemcg

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Everything posted by samwisemcg
 
 
  1. Hi all, recently I have been thinking about buying a pre 65 bike. I ride twinshock at the moment and would like a Tiger Cub bike to occasionally ride some easy routes on. I understand that some started life as a factory trials bike and some were converted from road bikes to trials. I think I’d rather get a factory trials machine. Is there any advantage to either? And is there a definitive way to identify exactly what model the bike is, can you tell from engine/frame numbers? Any help would be much appreciated. Many thanks.
  2. Thanks for all the advice so far. I only managed to have a quick 15 minute play with the bike this weekend, but I may have made progress. I decided to disconnect the clutch cable, just to make sure it wasn’t this causing issues. The kick start felt the same. So I turned my attention to the kick start lever itself. The lever was nearly vertical, so I took it off and rotated it to about the 1 o’clock position (don’t worry I know not to have it too far forwards). The kick start felt much more positive and after about 5 kicks the bike fired up. First time I’ve heard it running in 2 years! I connected the clutch and rode it for 5 minutes, it felt good. I will spend some more time with the bike soon and check for clutch slip in 6th. I’m just relieved that I haven’t had to split the cases yet. Thanks again
  3. Ok, so my 348 has never felt right when using the kick start. 90% of the time it feels like the kick start grinds as I kick it, and the engine doesn’t turn over. The splines on the shaft are fine. I was advised that it would be a worn clutch as the kick start goes through the clutch to turn the primary, this seemed sensible. The old clutch plates were shot, I have since gone through 2 different sets of plates with no success. I am now turning my attention to the kickstart mechanism. I realise that this is going to require me to split the cases to find out for sure, a job I have been trying to avoid. Is it likely that the cogs in the kick start are worn and not engaging correctly, or perhaps the spring in the mechanism has broken, has anyone ever had experience of this? Is there anything I should know before splitting the cases? Cheers Sam
  4. This was posted in the twinshock forum a few days ago, it may be some help! http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/59976-betor-shock-rebuild-photos/
  5. Top job. Post like this are a great source of info. Thanks
  6. An 88 TY250 will have a white frame, white forks and silver wheels. Gold wheels and red forks indicate that yours is 86 or earlier. You can use this site to indentify it by frame number http://www.yamahaty.com/english/serieen.html Or by looks http://www.yamahaty.com/english/tymonoen/tymonoen.html I'd say that you have an 85 and someone has painted the frame at some point. This site http://www.tytrials.co.uk/is a great source of many OEM parts. Hope this helps
  7. Success! It turned out to be 2 problems. The spark was very weak, so I cleaned up where the ht coil earths to the frame. I also cut a little from each end of the ht lead to make sure there was a good connection. The spark was much stronger than before. But it still died under heavy throttle use. So I stripped the carb out and spent 2 hours cleaning everything meticulously and replaced some o-rings on the choke. The bike fired up after a little while and now seems to run perfectly. I only had 30 minutes at this point, but it seems fine and fingers crossed thats the problem sorted. Cheers for all the help and advice, very much appreciated.
  8. Tight's tight and too tight's f**ked!
  9. Thanks, I'm in Portsmouth so not too far. I'll try and find somewhere closer, but if not I'll give BLR a call. Did you have a bad experience?
  10. The rear brake on my 88 ty 250s has never worked well, it’s almost useless. I put in new shoes and it made no difference. The braking surface inside the hub seems corroded. Is it possible to get the drums skimmed or relined? The front brake works perfectly (almost too well), I wouldn't mind the back being the same. Thanks in advance.
  11. Thanks for all the advice so far. This is typical, as I have my first trial of the year in under 2 weeks! I think I'll have to go through a list of things in order. Starting with the free things. Check plug gap Check earth on HT coil Check for moisture behind the flywheel Check stator readings Change HT lead and plug cap Change HT coil I've had a quick look on youtube on how to check the stator, does anyone have the correct readings for this? Thanks again
  12. I’ve owned the bike for a year and it’s never missed a beat. Last week I started the bike up first kick. Let it warm up. Rode it for a short time and it started to lose power, I could only keep it alive by revving it like hell. My first thought was to clean the carb, I cleaned all the jets with an airline. I also stuck in a new spark plug. This weekend it was exactly the same, starts ok, gets warm, wants to die. I’ve checked the spark and it’s very intermittent and when it is there it seems weak. Electronics really aren’t my strong point. Has anyone experienced anything similer?
  13. Thanks All. I've drained the oil in the clutch/gearbox twice, as it was milky. I assumed this was condensation in the crankcase. I'll take the crankcase bolt out to check there isn't anything lurking in there. Cheers
  14. I have noticed underneath my 88 TY 250 s there are 2 drain bolts. The first is in the middle at the rear of the engine, the Gearbox Drain Bolt. I have used this to drain the oil from the clutch and gearbox. The second bolt is smaller and underneath the crank. www.tytrials.co.uk list is as Crankcase Drain Bolt. What is this for? Does the crank have it's own oil, or is it for draining fuel oil which has found it's way into the crankcase? Finally I am pretty sure my rear shock has started to leak oil, is this servicable or should I look for a new unit. Thanks in advance
  15. Thanks Eddie, mine is the only fantic I've ever ridden, so I don't know any different.
  16. Is there any difference between the fantic 125 exhaust and the 200 exhaust? I have a rear kick 200, with a 125 (fm250) front pipe fitted and I'm just wondering if it is holding back the bike? Thanks
  17. It's a good feeling when that gear finally pops off.
  18. I'm thinking that with a few bends I can get the brake rod to run along the swingarm and up to the brake arm at the last minute. Worth a try. The snail cams got flipped just after I bought it, these are the original sellers photos. Good spot. Thanks
  19. Fantic240motor, you're right. I had a look at the optional extras on trials shocks and found the following To run shocks body downwards at time of order ...................................... £14.40 Looks like they can be adjusted to work with the body at the bottom. Thank you for your help.
  20. Thanks woody. I will leave it for now, but look into new rear shocks soonish.
  21. I have a fantic 200 with falcon shocks on it. Is it possible to mount the shocks upside down? The previous owner made a guard to stop the brake rod getting caught in the compressed springs. Although this works it doesn't look the best and is a bit vunerable. I would like to be able to route the rod behind the shock as per an original fantic 200. To do this I would need to flip the shocks the other way up. Will this have any negative effect?
  22. The fiberglass cover over the aluminium tanks were built to confirm to British laws. The plastic tanks were continetal European.
  23. There's loads available. I can't off the top of my head tell you which one I used but it looks like either of these. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neilsen-14pc-Gear-Puller-Bearing-Splitter-Set-CT1498-/271657108028?hash=item3f4006823c:m:mANPRhSkuKv1FNq_GQETDAA http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gear-Hub-Bearing-Puller-Seperator-Kit-14-Pc-Splitter-Set-Next-Day-UK-Delivery-/261304390683?hash=item3cd6f4941b:g:Yt4AAOSwjVVVhC9g Make sure to have a read through here http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/52817-montesa-348-success-story/#entry377405 myself and a few others describe how we got the gear off.
  24. After going through a number of pullers (4) I bought one like this. It cost around £25 on ebay. I tried bigger pullers and hydraulic pullers but they all had trouble getting behing the primary and would keep slipping off. This style puller works great because you can get behind small gears such as the primary and big gears such as the clutch basket. Have a read through this, it may help http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/52817-montesa-348-success-story/#entry377405
  25. Have you got the primary gear off the crankshaft yet? If not you will definitely need a puller for this (and some patience).
 
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