lotus54

From two I have owned, here is what I conclude. the Euro VIN sequence is not followed. the 10 character in the VIN for the Explorer at least. C= 2014 E- 2015 Engine numbers: 13 = 14 model year 14= 15 model year. I am 100% certain the 2014 I had was a 14 model, one of the very first in the States (maybe first Explorer sold). The 2015 I am pretty sure is right, and the numbers are ‘one later’ than the 14. Certianly the 14 was made in 13 (I got it in October) and likely the 15 was made in 14.

Thanks for the great info! I did not know there were solid shafts. This is a 15 and I will check, but probably has that. Since it is a sealed bearing- I will inspect again and may just leave it in place. I assume to remove clutch nut on this model you install the M5 screw to push against the end of the shaft, rather than jamming a torx tip in like the older ones?

2015 Explorer I need to replace the clutch fixer shaft and bearing. I removed circlip and I assume after heating the case, it should just tap out- bearing and shaft? It did not come out easily tapping from other side, so thought I would ask before trying again, perhaps with a slide hammer.

Yes, that is it. I made a typo on post (fixed) 0-10

Adrian told me to only use Maxima extra4. 0-10

I bought a 14 new. Still one of my all time favorite bikes. I put a ton of hours on it, at 300+ the cylinder/piston looked like new. I did sell it, since I wanted to try out an EM with clutch. But since sold that (range was just too short) and picked up a 15 Explorer with 17 hours on it. I sold most of my spares with the 14 (darn it) but still have a few things.

Considering EM’s past range estimates, I guess real world range will be about 30km

You should have it now ( I think).

Did I send it to you? Or did I forget.

I have it, pm me your email and i will send.

If I recall, changing washer/seal size can assure correct positioning.

I cannot remember. I think they are straight and need a copper or copper/rubber washer/seal.

I would take it nice and slow, turn in a bit, back out and back in. Just like threading. Or run a tap in first to make sure threads are clean.

I worked really hard to get it as close to 0.6 as I can, with idle set to stock (I think 1400?). I had a BTWICE throttle body with a bypass screw, so I could change idle speed without messing everything up (although I never did)

I think the 2012 has a four pin vrs 6 pin connector? If so, I have not done one and cannot remember how to address that.

I do not have a modern OSSA right now, but I think I did use that sparking plug. I found it difficult to start/smooth idle if I needed to reset TPS. I also fit my ‘super easy start’ setup (do a search) which powered up everything. For me, it worked much better than the factory ‘easy start’- with additional bonus of easy priming if running out of fuel and easy trailside troubleshooting. Much, much easier to start- almost always one kick.

Yes, I power up with a tiny Li battery. The best way to set the TPS (well, that is true for me anyway). I found I had to adjust/reset TPS about every 100 hours.

I did that on my 2014 that I bought new. I used a momentary button, held it down when starting using a tiny LiPo battery. Fuel pump with run/prime and bike always started really easily. I had a thread here called ‘Super Easy Start’ if I recall. It was a long time ago

Lewisport in the States had a jig to replace parts on those gearboxes and had quite a lot of spares. I would check with them and see what they still have

make sure to use the software version and maps for the older ECU- there are two different ones. The newer ECU/software allows a base fuel mixture trim, I found it makes a noticeable difference and could be something to try. Did you check with Lewisport for the fuel level sensor? I know they still have quite a few parts and something like that is likely to be a very low demand and may still have. A phone call works best.

I have seen some serial to USB adapters fail with this sort of thing. The most reliable one I had also had a driver not updated for newer OS. An Integrated Servo I am using for my electronic lead screw- would not work with the serial/USB, even though the computer would ‘see’ it. I bought one from the servo company and it worked fine. Some laptops have a docking station that has a real serial port, or a desktop. Those would be the most reliable. But also having to find more stuff

Are you using a ‘regular’ serial interface, or a fabricated USB one? I”ve used the factory serial, they work quite reliably. I have also made USB ones and had pretty good luck with them along with one the BTWICE made. But only on the older machines.

I have only used Win 7 and XP. Sounds like some timing issues with the USB. I have seen that before with various equipment. Any chance you have a Win 7 machine or HD you could test?

What version of Windows are you using?

Are you looking for the drum, or the shaft?