ourian

Knowsley police may have found the top one, it's on facebook

I have never given it a second thought as to why youth riders (or their parents) pay less for and entry. As far as I'm aware kids always get a reduction on an adults full price, bus fare, cinema, amusement parks, sports grounds, holidays etc etc. why should trials be any different? All of the clubs I ride with, the majority of organisers are ex youth riders, they've been riding 30,40,50 years some of them, they certainly don't do it for the money, they do it for their love of the sport and for the enjoyment of others. Anything that encourages kids to get out of the house, get some exercise and off a computer or mobile phone should be supported wholeheartedly by society and if I as an adult have to chip in an extra couple of quid to help parents do so, then I don't begrudge a penny.

https://montesa.fr/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/parts_list_4RT_2006.pdf

You really need to ride the bikes to see what suits your riding style, however having said that, there's no reason why you couldn't adapt, which you're going to have to do coming from a twinshock. Now I'm not a good rider by any means and if I were to ride a different bike, I don't believe it wouldn't make me a better rider So here's my personal reasons why I love my 4RT:- Looks, sound, build quality, parts availability and price, not a lot of maintenance required, no mixing of fuel, lower depreciation Some modern 2T riders have tried a 4RT and gone back to a 2T as they can't get on with them, others have never looked back, so as i said at the beginning, you really need to ride different bikes to see what suits you. Good luck

This is the seal Loosen the drive sprocket nut first by bending the tab washer out of the way, select first gear, foot hard on rear brake to stop engine from turning whilst you undo the nut, remove the chain and drive sprocket, I think there's also a spacer on the shaft behind the sprocket, once you've slid that off, apply a bit of heat to the casing around the seal and you should be able to pop the old seal out. When putting the new seal in, again a bit of heat on the casing and using the spacer as a guide and a suitable sized drift (usually a big socket or a piece of tubing) tap the new seal in keeping it square to the casing as you go. Theoretically you should also replace the tab washer behind the nut on the drive shaft, also if the sprocket is showing signs of wear you might as well replace that at the same time It's a fairly simple job if you have the right tools and a bit of mechanical savvy, but if you're not sure, then it's best to find someone who is

Hi Rob There's a few great clubs and venues near to where you live Loughborough has a trial on in 2 weeks come and have a gander ESTC has own practice ground, ideal for beginners Pegasus probably your closest venues As for the bike, 250 is fine, if you'd prefer a 4T then Montesa 4RT all day long or a Beta 4T if you'd prefer a carb, perhaps a trials experience day would be of benefit Before you can ride in a trial you'll need an ACU trials licence (although I believe some clubs are now doing day licences)

Your tick over sounds very fast, your tachometer/hourmeter is not correct, this maybe because the signal wire from the tachometer is too long and in contact with the fuel tank Here are the instructions for de-restricting the 4rt, I suggest that you check that the dealer has made all the changes needed, especially removing the green/white wire from the connector and any restrictions in the throttle body and airfilter.

One thing to consider is fuel, my standard 4rt does 8-10 miles per litre, so with your 15 mile journey to the practice ground, you'll just about use a full tank of fuel to get there on a 4rt and then need to refill to get you home. With a Hebo auxilary tank on the forks and a H&M seat with build in tank, I've managed to get my 4rt's fuel carrying capacity up to 5 litres The H&M seat does demount in seconds but leaves a hooked mounting bracket just in the right place to cause some nasty damage to your spherical adornment Another consideration is tyres, with 30 miles of road work each time you ride to and from the practice ground, they're not going to last long as a trials tyre

Personally the only bike I would buy from a dealer is a brand new one. Buying second hand is always a gamble, some you win and some you lose but if I'm going to lose I'd rather pay less money in the first place. Ideally get someone who knows a bit about trials bikes to have a look at what you want to buy.

Take the spacers out, refit the wheel so that the rear sprocket lines up with drive sprocket and measure what spacer is required. It has been know for folk to mix up the spacers and put the left one where the right one should be

Are these the instructions you followed ? LINK As the spacer and ring should sit on top of the spring, it's hard to understand why the spacer is half way down the leg A few suggestions 1) try compressing the fork to see if the spring will push the spacer out 2) take the lower leg off the tube and try pushing the spring & spacer back up the tube 3) try hooking the spacer, you'll have to make a special tool preferably with a slide hammer action to do this Once you have the spacer out examine for damage and if it has expanded or deformed, fit a new one.

The air from the fan should be drawn through the radiator and blow over the engine

Welcome to your new obsession Earl Shilton is a great club with it's own practice ground Here are a few other clubs in your area Mansfield Maun Loughborough Pegasus

No it does not It has a flange mounting adapter, to which the arms of the rack attach to. It also has a Bak-Rak adapter bolted through the tow ball and said flange adaptor. There is most definitely not a bar that hooks under the car and braces against the tow bar frame.

You are correct The problem with the Bak-Rak is that it clamps on the ball and not the ball+the stem, hence why it can pivot until the Bak-Rak hits the stem, however Bak Rak do an anti pivot collar which clamps to the stem, but personally I'd invest the £70 for a flanged swan neck

I'd go with this option, try contacting Witter for correct part number Only an example

Went to a trial, kicked bike a few times, then realised lanyard was left on a shelf in the garage, this was followed by desperately searching every orifice in the van until that tatty old spare was found

Yes happened to me, as above yep weld it up, I think the filler rod I used was 4036 but don't quote me on that LINK

Another possibility is a dirty fuel pump filter

A fair few of clubs offer a free ride for providing an observer, how about a free ride for being a first aider? Certified and registered of course

They're easy enough to take apart, small screwdriver between the two halves to release clips, clean up the contacts, check for any plastic flashing inhibiting movement of spring or contact, give spring a slight stretch, put back together and see if it works.

This is why every day is a school day, mystery solved cheers!

Owners manual is a bit vague regarding running in and when to change the oil etc "Operate the motorcycle for the first 20 minutes using not more than half throttle and shifting gears so that the engine does not lug" In the maintenance schedule it says to replace engine oil and oil filter after the first break in period and also to check valve clearances too. However I can't find any specification to the actual length of the break in period. I rode mine on and off for approx 2hrs then changed engine oil, gearbox oil and oil filter I did check the valve clearances after a few more hours running and was surprised to find that they were smaller than specified, which is the opposite of what I expected

You could try Connect your original two blue wires together, then take a wire from this connection to one wire of the lanyard and then connect the other lanyard wire to earth So that when you pull the cap off the kill switch, the current will go to earth rather than onto the coil

Yes Berlingo has anchor points, or should have. Ratchet straps are best/easiest as is having a ramp to push it up Front wheel in first, put bike diagonally across load area, strap down bike I usually put one strap over swinging arm one side and on the other side through the frame near foot peg But depends on which bike you have Enjoy!