Jump to content

hayden2010

Members
  • Posts

    21
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Information
 
   
Recent Profile Visitors
 
 

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

 
  1. Try this technique. Made me use my back brake!
  2. My gasgas 300 racing 2012 had ATF in it, which made the clutch not only drag, but snappy as hell, very little progression. I drained it out, and refilled with 75w light motorcycle gear oil. Since then, the clutch doesnt drag, engages sweetly, and seems to run quieter at the bottom end. Regardless of folk saying ATF is great, my experience with it is, i wont EVER use it as a gearbox oil again. I mean, its designed to be a pressure fluid in powersteering units and automatic boxes, and has a third of the lubricity of proper gear oil. I know which one id reccomend!
  3. Got a set of clarke Skeletal brakes with discs, £35 from chain reaction cycles Fitted them today, they fit straight on, no drama, and the levers adjust all the way to the bar if needed! So much better, as he can now pull the brake enough to stop him instantly. The original cable type were inadequate really, the lever adjustment is terrible, and needs adult type strength to bite the discs properly Personally, i dont know why oset even offer cable style disc brakes, they cant be that much more money than the cable ones!
  4. All done. Very easy, and i did both sprocket and gearchange seal. Lets hope that fixes it!
  5. Hi, The 2012 gasgas 300 racing i have has a slight leak coming from either the sprocket shaft oil seal or the gear change oil seal, John lee mcs kindly sent me the o rings, and everything i need to replace them, (bought it from them last month, they offered to do it, but i said id do it at my leisure to save time and getting it back over there) Before i start, has anyone done it before, and any advice? Thanks
  6. Isnt halfords pro tooling manufacutred under licence by snap on? By the way, ive put a few snap on kids through college, still got my original chest and full set of tools, never changed!
  7. Funny, that! I have done exactly the same to my 300 racing. Slow throttle, and 10 tooth front. I was advised to have flywheel weight and low comp insert, but a few folk on here and elsewhere said to just leave it and ride it for a while. Glad i did, as im loving it now!
  8. Ive got the 300 racing, which has the kehin carb and high comp head. Theres a difference between that and the 300 pro, brisker and snappier.
  9. Yes you can only get to the rear master cylinder by removing the swingarm, (stupid design really!) I had a 280 climber, theyre ok as a starter bike, but i found as i progressed theyre really heavy, and braking isnt brilliant. Richard allen has plently of used spares for them, and is a great bloke to deal with, really helpful. He also has a full aprillia manual, and im sure he can sort folk out with a copy. http://www.allensusedtrialsspares.co.uk/
  10. I got fed up with it. Seemed that after spending another £300 on parts, and still i had problems, and i had to see sense. It was more economical to chop it in and get a new bike, from a reputable dealer, so that i could look after the bike properly, and know it was safe and ready to ride So ive now got a new Gasgas 300 Racing.
  11. Dumbass aint i! So youre Tulsa way.
  12. You up by Woodward john, or further into the panhandle? I lived in Weatherford and Eakley for ten years, know okie quite well! Back in blighty now
  13. I agree. I dont mind fixing things, and certainly dont mind maintenance. What irked me was the fact that some people shouldnt be allowed to own anything decent, and certainly should be banned from a tool box! Hence why i decided to go to a dealer. At least i knew the bike had a full service and checkover, so i can keep maintenance on it myself.
  14. Well, today i decided to chop in my sherco, and purchase myself an upgrade! Ive gone to the dark side, and bought a GasGas TXT300 R 2012 model. Got some gorgeous stuff on it, flatslide carb, ohlins shock, and some nice touches i think, the petrol cap, the stand doesnt fling up as soon as you move it, the titanium exhaust, the standard wide pegs, Its bloody lively though, i e got a slow action throttle coming, as i had that on the sherco, and a friend has a flywheel weight kit, to try and tame it down Muchos happy though, an hour on it and im chufffed!,
  15. Well, after a week of riding the new sherco, and my son got a brand new oset 16 for his 4th birthday, we came home from a days riding to do a once over. Lil'uns bike seemed to have no movement on the rear, It seems oset dont use bearings on the swingarm, and also dont use grease!! So that was an easy fix. Cleaned up, on charge ready for next ride. However, when i came to my sherco, different matter. Typical of these bikes, there was plenty of play in the rear, 10-15cms of movement up and down, big play in the dog bones. So i started stripping (the bike. NOT me!) Heres where the headaches start! I removed the plastics, exhaust and then upper shock mount bolt. Then removed the lower mounting to swingarm. Very rusty bolts. After removing the rubber/plastic frame plugs, i started undoing the swingarm pivot bolt nut, to find ONE thread holding it. I tapped the pivot bolt out and found the bolt itself had either been installed by a ham fisted retard, or had been left loose, as one side of the bolt for 2/3 of its length is now worn flat, threads included, nut wont actually grip! Discarded, time for new! So i remove the swingarm, and start to take off the dogbones. Some one has glued them all up with silicone sealant!! WTF? After cleaning that crapola off everything (mustve thought doi g that means you dont have to give a ***** about maintenance!) i pressed out the old bearings, which were rusted solid to their inner races, then pressed out the actual races themselves. Nearly all the needle bearings were twisted in the housings, so were of no use regardless of being seized! I cleaned up the dog bones,, sanded off the rough edges where previous people mustve thought hitting it with a hammer would fix it! In went new ALL-BALLS RACING bearings, with plently of silkolene red race grease worked into them. I also did the swingarm lower mount as that was fubar too! I also needed to sort out the leak on the front pipe, as its annoying! Removed the top bolt, and the exhaust fell off. The bottom bolt has snapped in the head! Out came the dremmel, and i flattened off the broken bolt to the face of the cylinder, then center punched the bolt. In went a carbide drill, and drilled the bolt. Left handed tap, and tapped the hole. Lots of heat later, and a left hand M5 bolt, and out comes the broken bolt. In went a new gasket and back on with the front pipe. Now before i refitted the swingarm, i took the time to check why my back brake didnt work properly. Oh yes theres the problem. Some knobend has trapped the brake line between the engine and swinger!! Maybe thats why the spindle was knackered!! So i get a new line, (made one up) and thread it through swingarm. I heat the hell out of the rear caliper, but the bleed nipple STILL snaps. Oh well, out come the easy outs, but i find the caliper is cracked. Fixed caliper, and replaced the bleed nipple, and refitted the new brake line. I refit the swingarm, and shock linkages, and lovely, no movement! Start to bleed the brake, and first push of the pedal, the master cylinder goes POP and leaks!! Off that comes, but the bottom is seized, so i cant even fit new kit. On goes a new master cylinder and i finally at 9:40 last night got the brake bled, chain on, plastics on, airbox back in, exhaust back on, and ready to go! I wonder how many folk buy trials bikes and ignore any kind of basic maintenence? I mean, silicone sealant instead of greasing stuff? Hamfisted fitment of parts? They're a unique race built bike, not a kymco chinese scooter throwaway!!
×
  • Create New...