Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About sammyd173

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  1. Need help with Fakies

    The secret with fakies is leaning the bike into the ground to speed up the rotation. The more you lean the bike, the faster the rotation will occur. So, endo, roll back, turn the front wheel to the right, bike will initiate fakie turn, then smoothly drop the bike down further to the right and you'll speed up the process. I hope that helps!
  2. I would practice on that grass slope. It's steeper and would be my choice. First thing though is to grab your mountain bike and learn to hop on the rear wheel without moving forward. Lock the shock if its got one. This will teach you to hop without having to zap forward, and will also teach you how to shift your hips to the side as you hop off the ground to jump the bike to the side (and stop it falling over). You will also figure out how to hop backwards and not step back off the bike when the front wheel gets too high (you simply pull the pegs back with your legs). Also, experiment while hopping with the 'bars close to you chest and further away to control front wheel height. Move your knees forward and back too, like you see when people 'manual' bicycles. Got all that?! Next I practiced/ continue to practice on wheelies on the trials bike in first gear where you almost loop out, then lock the rear wheel, and as the front comes down wheelie off again, and repeat. This is also hard. Finally, to get the rear wheel off the ground for the trials bike, it's a very quick stab of the pegs to compress the shock and then a flick of the clutch to accompany the rebound. I practice this from a crawl on flat ground. A fun trick is to do one hop on to the rear wheel, rear wheel locked, and then jab the pegs and hop backwards about a foot and land on both wheels. It's honestly not that hard, unlike doing successive hops. Good luck!
  3. Swingarm Theory

    I'm wondering about how moving the rear wheel forward and back in the swingarm can affect what the bike does, and how noticeable it might be? It seems that the further back the rear wheel is, the more lift you would get when trying to blast up a rock. The cantilever effect would be amplified the further back the rear wheel was. Imagine the rear wheel a foot back (for mental illustrative purposes), and how much more that would lift you up as the rear wheel shot forward, sending you up. I wonder if Bou runs his rear wheel further back to get that amazing lift. It would also make sense - maybe - that the further back your footpegs are, the less of a lift effect you would get. Imagine your pegs all the way back to the axle of the rear wheel - you'd get no lift at all. Conversely (if anyone is still reading this blather), the closer the rear wheel is to the front of the bike, the easier it should be to balance on the rear wheel as you are not lifted up as high. Think of trials bicycles. And the further back the pegs are, the easier to control the bike on the back wheel? Then there's all the other implications of increased/ decreased rear traction, softening of rear shock when the wheel goes further back, and lots of other things I haven't even considered. So my question is, do any of you actually set up the back of your bikes with these effects in mind?
  4. Taming a 300??

    I think some riders would like the bottom end of a 300, and then then the mid-top of a 200. Lots of power off the bottom, no scary power when launching the bike with high revs. I think many of us (myself included) would do well to have some time on a 125 to get used to holding a bike pinned and then firing up things. Things would happen more slowly and be more predictable. It's taken me a while to get to this point on my Montesa 260. Hopefully I can transfer that over to my future 300 TRS!
  5. Trials Bicycle for training

    So I have a 20" mod, 24" Inspired Skye and a 26" Ozonys. IMO, if you are at clubman level or below and you are trying to learn pivot turns, front hops, bunny hops, etc then you will do much better learning these techniques on a mountain bike with similar bar and pedal heights. If you've never been on a trials bicycle you will alarmed at the geometry, which is all based around being on the back wheel. This means pedals are very high up and 'bars are down low. They are also usually very far infront of the steering tube via a long stem which also makes the handling very awkward and further deviates from any similarity to a trials bike. I got trials bicycles because I like what people can do on them and I want to learn how to do stuff on the back wheel of my Cota, like hopping the bike sideways to keep balance at the top of a climb. If you can hop on the rear wheel or get close to it on a regular bicycle then give it a go. If you can't do any trick riding on a bicycle at all then this would be a big waste of money.
  6. New map available!

    Interesting comments about the grooming. There was a situation at section 8 where Fuji and some other riders were grooming a kicker out of the dirt in front the biggest wall/rock. Checker came around the corner and stomped it out quite bravely and the crowd boo'd him, probably because the obstacle was so gigantic and impossible looking that they were just hoping to see riders get over. Then someone in the crowd yelled, 'it was already like that!' and so the checker let them rebuild it...! I think the sentiment was similar to the non-stop adherence or lack thereof. Who wants to stop a top rider from putting on a display? And the rocks were so big and dangerous in spots it almost seemed fair to let them do it. Almost.
  7. Show your Vertigo

    Where was this taken?
  8. Creaking front end - solved

    Just thought I'd share something I was struggling with for a while and finally fixed. Front end would creak quite badly when turning the wheel from side to side, audible when the engine was off. Torqued head bearings - that wasn't it. Tightened the front mudguard - I was sure the fork brace had some play in it - that wasn't it. I turned out to be the allen head bolt under the right fork leg that clamps the axle tight. That was loose. Bit embarrassing really, I obviously forgot to tighten it after putting a new front tire on. That is all!
  9. Noise/ Maps

  10. Noise/ Maps

    That's a lovely post Mr. Schrauber! Interesting to see how things are viewed by others in different countries. A couple of points - that's my garage, not my front entrance, that's a standard US gas can that I'm assuming you are seeing, we are in a perpetual drought in Southern CA so you'll have to forgive the fact that we have given up on landscaping. Also I'm British. Silly me though - and I'm not being sarcastic - I posted this question in the Vertigo board, so I assumed everyone would understand I was asking about how quiet a VERTIGO was and if the maps on IT make a difference. Not the Beta. The video was an example of the reason I need a quiet bike As far as the helmet - it's a downhill MTB helmet. Designed for crashes down a mountain at 40 mph. I'm ridng simple obstacles in my driveway and topping out at maybe 8 mph. I have a trials helmet for everywhere else I ride. Your statement about consideration for other board members shows a level of etiquette I can only hope to understand some day! Anyway, don't watch any older videos from the '80' of riders like Tarres riding helmet-less while practicing riding up obstacles mortals like us wouldn't even consider... Edit: the GoPro is on a chest mount, not the helmet.
  11. Noise/ Maps

    Well that's just being nasty now. Talking of mothers, what would yours say if she saw what a mean-spirited person you've become? I'm sure she'd be disappointed. She'd say, "b40rt, why are you being mean to the other grown-ups on your motorcycle forum? And you'd say, 'But mum, this man showed up and it was his first time in the forum and he posted a video of himself showing off riding around and it made me feel a bit jealous and angry, and he didn't even do the 'I'm a newb' thing or offer to put his flame suit on! And then the other men on there started being a bit mean and unfriendly and it made me want to join in with them.' And your mum would say, 'Now b40rt, and that's a silly screen name by the way, I agree that the video was a bit much for a first post, but really, asking him about his sexuality? How old are you now?" And you would just look down and the floor and feel like a bit of a c*nt. =)
  12. Noise/ Maps

    Christ, what a right bunch of miserable *******s hang out on this forum, eh? 8 replies and only one worthy comment to address the question, is this what these forums are supposed to be about? One **** that keeps posting Blade Runner links, another who has issues with where I live, and now the wise old safety police shows up. Quality stuff lads. I'm guessing the only one that actually owns a Vertigo is the one with the good post. Hopefully you lot can take out your frustrations with some riding this weekend - assuming you still ride.
  13. Noise/ Maps

    Thanks dadof2, great info. I bought that Beta since it was the quietest bike made. Replaced that with a Cota 260 which I have now. Living on the washed out hillside terrace that I do - the road to which is covered as I type with dirt that has been washed down by the rain - I only have two neighbors and they never complain about the noise, nor would they if I had the Vertigo. The real reason I need the bike to be quiet is for the hundreds of acres I poach in the canyons and mountains next to my house, where the tree hugging assholes would faint at the sight/ sound of a dirt bike crawling over the land, notwithstanding the fact that hundreds of tons of soil are being washed away by the rains. Anyway I didn't want to mention the real reason as I was sure I'd get jumped on for riding illegally. Not that I give a sh!t, quite frankly =)
  14. Noise/ Maps

    Do these bike run quieter, i.e. with less 'popping', if run on richer or leaner maps? Or does the bike always sound the same at or near idle? I ride around my property sometimes and a quiet bike is preferred:
  15. 'breakthrough' Techniques

    Use your knees to static balance. Bending your knees and squatting lower on the bike can stop it falling over. Also moving your knees from side to side across the tank is a great way to maintain balance, rather than using bar pressure. I find that going up obstacles with the knees in tight works better than flaring your legs out. You might think that having your knees pointing way out gives more stability, like a tight rope walker holding a pole, but for me the effect is the opposite. If you go up something with your knees closer together, or ride in a straight line with them in, then it's easier to flick one out for balance. If both knees are already out you've limited your correction options. Try both next time out and see what works for you!