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About sammyd173

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  1. So I have a 20" mod, 24" Inspired Skye and a 26" Ozonys. IMO, if you are at clubman level or below and you are trying to learn pivot turns, front hops, bunny hops, etc then you will do much better learning these techniques on a mountain bike with similar bar and pedal heights. If you've never been on a trials bicycle you will alarmed at the geometry, which is all based around being on the back wheel. This means pedals are very high up and 'bars are down low. They are also usually very far infront of the steering tube via a long stem which also makes the handling very awkward and further deviates from any similarity to a trials bike. I got trials bicycles because I like what people can do on them and I want to learn how to do stuff on the back wheel of my Cota, like hopping the bike sideways to keep balance at the top of a climb. If you can hop on the rear wheel or get close to it on a regular bicycle then give it a go. If you can't do any trick riding on a bicycle at all then this would be a big waste of money.
  2. Interesting comments about the grooming. There was a situation at section 8 where Fuji and some other riders were grooming a kicker out of the dirt in front the biggest wall/rock. Checker came around the corner and stomped it out quite bravely and the crowd boo'd him, probably because the obstacle was so gigantic and impossible looking that they were just hoping to see riders get over. Then someone in the crowd yelled, 'it was already like that!' and so the checker let them rebuild it...! I think the sentiment was similar to the non-stop adherence or lack thereof. Who wants to stop a top rider from putting on a display? And the rocks were so big and dangerous in spots it almost seemed fair to let them do it. Almost.
  3. Where was this taken?
  4. Just thought I'd share something I was struggling with for a while and finally fixed. Front end would creak quite badly when turning the wheel from side to side, audible when the engine was off. Torqued head bearings - that wasn't it. Tightened the front mudguard - I was sure the fork brace had some play in it - that wasn't it. I turned out to be the allen head bolt under the right fork leg that clamps the axle tight. That was loose. Bit embarrassing really, I obviously forgot to tighten it after putting a new front tire on. That is all!
  5. Nutter!
  6. That's a lovely post Mr. Schrauber! Interesting to see how things are viewed by others in different countries. A couple of points - that's my garage, not my front entrance, that's a standard US gas can that I'm assuming you are seeing, we are in a perpetual drought in Southern CA so you'll have to forgive the fact that we have given up on landscaping. Also I'm British. Silly me though - and I'm not being sarcastic - I posted this question in the Vertigo board, so I assumed everyone would understand I was asking about how quiet a VERTIGO was and if the maps on IT make a difference. Not the Beta. The video was an example of the reason I need a quiet bike As far as the helmet - it's a downhill MTB helmet. Designed for crashes down a mountain at 40 mph. I'm ridng simple obstacles in my driveway and topping out at maybe 8 mph. I have a trials helmet for everywhere else I ride. Your statement about consideration for other board members shows a level of etiquette I can only hope to understand some day! Anyway, don't watch any older videos from the '80' of riders like Tarres riding helmet-less while practicing riding up obstacles mortals like us wouldn't even consider... Edit: the GoPro is on a chest mount, not the helmet.
  7. Well that's just being nasty now. Talking of mothers, what would yours say if she saw what a mean-spirited person you've become? I'm sure she'd be disappointed. She'd say, "b40rt, why are you being mean to the other grown-ups on your motorcycle forum? And you'd say, 'But mum, this man showed up and it was his first time in the forum and he posted a video of himself showing off riding around and it made me feel a bit jealous and angry, and he didn't even do the 'I'm a newb' thing or offer to put his flame suit on! And then the other men on there started being a bit mean and unfriendly and it made me want to join in with them.' And your mum would say, 'Now b40rt, and that's a silly screen name by the way, I agree that the video was a bit much for a first post, but really, asking him about his sexuality? How old are you now?" And you would just look down and the floor and feel like a bit of a c*nt. =)
  8. Christ, what a right bunch of miserable *******s hang out on this forum, eh? 8 replies and only one worthy comment to address the question, is this what these forums are supposed to be about? One **** that keeps posting Blade Runner links, another who has issues with where I live, and now the wise old safety police shows up. Quality stuff lads. I'm guessing the only one that actually owns a Vertigo is the one with the good post. Hopefully you lot can take out your frustrations with some riding this weekend - assuming you still ride.
  9. Thanks dadof2, great info. I bought that Beta since it was the quietest bike made. Replaced that with a Cota 260 which I have now. Living on the washed out hillside terrace that I do - the road to which is covered as I type with dirt that has been washed down by the rain - I only have two neighbors and they never complain about the noise, nor would they if I had the Vertigo. The real reason I need the bike to be quiet is for the hundreds of acres I poach in the canyons and mountains next to my house, where the tree hugging assholes would faint at the sight/ sound of a dirt bike crawling over the land, notwithstanding the fact that hundreds of tons of soil are being washed away by the rains. Anyway I didn't want to mention the real reason as I was sure I'd get jumped on for riding illegally. Not that I give a sh!t, quite frankly =)
  10. Do these bike run quieter, i.e. with less 'popping', if run on richer or leaner maps? Or does the bike always sound the same at or near idle? I ride around my property sometimes and a quiet bike is preferred:
  11. Use your knees to static balance. Bending your knees and squatting lower on the bike can stop it falling over. Also moving your knees from side to side across the tank is a great way to maintain balance, rather than using bar pressure. I find that going up obstacles with the knees in tight works better than flaring your legs out. You might think that having your knees pointing way out gives more stability, like a tight rope walker holding a pole, but for me the effect is the opposite. If you go up something with your knees closer together, or ride in a straight line with them in, then it's easier to flick one out for balance. If both knees are already out you've limited your correction options. Try both next time out and see what works for you!
  12. This is great info. The bike tried to kill me on Sunday. I was up a ways in some rocks and popped the clutch to do a small wheelie accross a gap. Bike died and the front wheel disappeared into the gap and I went crashing down. Stock gearing is too high for that stuff for me. Fuel was boiling also so bike was probably running hot which I'm guessing didn't help. A few blips of the throttle to raise idle and charge system up will help. Not great for confidence!
  13. Good question - I really liked 42/10 gearing on the Beta. So I wondered what the equivalent would be on the Montesa. Primary Reduction Beta - 63/18 = 3.5 Primary Reduction Montesa - 3.167 So Beta has a reduction effect that is 10.5% higher, meaning it will run 10.5% SLOWER than the Montesa with the same gearing. That's about the difference of one tooth less on the front sprocket. So 42/10 on the Beta is like 42/9 on the Montesa. I think. The Montesa has a lot more power than my Beta 300 4t, so I'm willing to run this bike with faster gearing. The only time I really want for lower gearing than stock on this bike is when I'm at a dead stop and in the middle of a pile or rock and am bouncing an clutch-flicking my way out, or when the front is very high on a tricky part of a hill, from a dead stop again. But when doing an event as opposed to pleasure riding, this scenario happens to me a lot .
  14. Thanks everyone. I get the overall impression that expert/ pro riders tend to run higher/ faster gearing than lower grade riders. Also the more grip there is, the higher the gearing, generally. We now have 6 of us in San Diego running these bikes and riding together at the weekends. Three of those bikes materialized in the last couple of months. We seem to spend most of our time trying to scare each other riding up large rocks/ slabs. Everyone is running 41/10 gearing. An advantage of keeping stock gearing is knowing what gear others are using for various obstacles/ challenges. A bit like Motocross when you are trying to figure out whether to use second or third off a jump, and you can ask your buddy what he is using. I keep telling these guys, 'Rocks for show, corners for dough!' but they're a motley bunch, so splatters and zaps is where it's at. Last time they went out - I was on kid duty - one guy dislocated his shoulder off a drop-off, and another dude who is a novice looped out and dislocated his elbow and fractured his arm in three places. Both his bikes are up for sale. No idea what gearing he was running.
  15. First of all, there is absolutely nothing fun about gearing... With that said, I got my new (to me) '15 260 standard model a week ago. Great bike! Standard 41/10 is too fast for me. I'm 180, ride slab and sand and try to go up big rocks here in California. So then I put a 41/9 on. Too slow. 1st too slow, second to tall. Read the forums, lots of different opinions. So I tried to do some math, which no doubt someone will correct me on, but here goes. 41/10 = 4.1 reduction 41/9 = 4.56 reduction The difference between the two is 11.2%. So the massive difference you can feel between a 9t and a 10t sprocket is just 11.2% in speed. Let's say you want to split the difference - you think that's the goldilocks zone. 43/10 = 4.3 reduction. That's a 4.9% difference, i.e. a reduction of speed of 4.9% over stock. So that's what I'm going for. ==== They say taking one tooth off the front is the same as adding 3 teeth to the rear. Well maybe that's the case for street or MX bikes with much higher gearing, but my (questionable) calculations say that you need to add 4 teeth to the rear to get the same effect as reducing a tooth on the front, and vice versa. 41/9 - 4.56 reduction 45/10 - 4.5 reduction - you need to add 4 teeth to the rear. ==== Gearing as reported in the '15 manual. Primary - 3.167 1st - 2.8 2nd - 2.385 (This is a 17% increase in speed over 1st gear) 3rd - 2 (19% increase in speed over 2nd gear). 4th - 1.273 5th - 0.815 Note the LOWER the number is, the FASTER the bike is going. Let's say you want to know if 2nd gear with a 9t is going to equate to 1st gear with a 10t? Okay, I wanted to know that. Well, we know that a 9t makes the bike slower by 11.2%. So you multiply second gear on this chart - 2.385 - by 1.112 (or 111.2%). Remember, the higher the number, the slower the bike is going, so we are increasing the reduction effect. That value comes out to 2.65. This means that with a 9t front sprocket, second gear will be FASTER than 1st gear with 10t. By how much? About 6%, which is something. So there. Anyway, this is some of the logic I used to try to figure out my gearing without buying a ton of sprockets, maybe it will help someone else!