cangy1000

Ive looped out the bank angle sensor, fuel pump and fan is running ok. I guess I need to read up on the throttle stop, sure I've come across a thread on hear on the subject.

First thing I did was take the kill switch off, nothing...not even a pop. There's no spark at the plug. Tried new plug and cleaning earth and connections on coil...nothing. I had done one lap of sections, refilled fuel, couple more sections completed. then stopped to walk a section and would not start...not a pop. Not found anything on a search, I guess they usually don't go wrong much. Is there anything that commonly goes wrong wrong on older bikes? mine is the first 05 model.

How much gearbox oil do you use in these engines? 1350 seems an awful lot of oil for a little engine. I guess it could help the cooling.

I did my 4RT recently. I got it sat on a sturdy stand, if you can strap the bike to the stand all the better. Take lots of pics on your phone as you disassemble. Good luck

Your peg location seems to be what most do. You don’t want to get you peg too far away from your brake leaver, if you use you back brake a lot. Early frames suffered from bad corrosion on some of the gussets, May need replacing. Mine had a broken loop under the engine. Don’t think they need the stearing angle changed imo.

Any advice on removing the top bush in the fork legs on TLR 200?

https://gasgas.com/en/manuals?c=trial&y=

Cheers for that 2stroke4stroke. I remember they do tell you to put the tight coils either top or bottom, didn't realise that was the only reason

They don't have a cap as standard, which came as a surprise to me. I got new O-rings (when I replaced my bearings) as they was totally squashed into the ally ring...to be honest, I didn't realise they were there. Hopefully the new O-rings will do the same job as a cap...not sure yet as the bike has only had a few outings since I've done it.

Can anyone remember which way up they they go off top of your head...or where i can find out?

Thought l’d up-grade to iridium, but compared it to old one it looks different. Have i got the right one? Is the non-threaded bit part pf the seal?

https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/dellorto-motorcycle-carburettors-parts/complete-carburettors-dellorto-motorcycle-carburettors-parts/phbh-26-to-30mm/r4168-phbh-26cs-gas-gas/ Surprisingly cheep if its the same as yours...better than messing around with old carbs.

Have you by any chance plugged the lighting exstention into the main loom? I did for MOT. It ran very similar to what you describe.

I got this from a 1978 Motorcycle Machanics. Anyone know for sure what the correct head torque for my FM350 rear kick should be?

My standard springs were about the same with no spacers.

Surely if you straiten it out it will be longer. I would have thought cutting a piece out would be the fix. My bike doesn't fall over as much since I put Magical springs in the forks...ground clearance has increased, maybe that's your issue or wrong rear shockers?

https://www.google.com/search?q=fantic+200&rlz=1C1RUCY_enIM769IM769&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiZ04qT-JnZAhUKvxQKHZVsBTwQ7AkINg&biw=1366&bih=637#imgrc=2rjgaNvLh0FnWM Most look strait on pics...Blow torch at the bend site will allow it to bend easy.

Think mine is strait. I did wonder(because it's strait) if it had been a DIY job after the OE got damaged. Yours looks very similar to mine except yours has a crank in it. I recon someone had done to stop it catching on rocks. They are only a bit of light weight tube and will fracture if messed with too much. I have to be careful where I leave my 200, bit of wind or soft ground has it over. Think the foot could do with being slightly bigger and a shorter length would help.

Sounds like a plan. They are very tight and fiddly, I really didn't think I'd get it out without taking the head off, and then thought about getting it back in...much easyer.

Thing is...getting back in without chipping the new paint. I'm doing mine at the moment, took the head off for that reason. Glad I did now as the bolts are full of oil, think it's been blowing from head and or base gasket. Im hoping it just wasn't torqued up right.

Stiff folks? Totally opposite to what I found on my 200 when I first got it. Maybe just way too much oil of too thick, big spacers in there. Careful the tops might hit you in the face when you undo em. I replaced the(what I assumed)originals with Magicals and put enough 10w oil to stop the folks topping out, bit of trial and error required. If you get Magicals you will need the adjustable preload spacers they sell at the TY majesty place, or make some big spacers. I've set mine with little of no preload and are quite bouncy now in comparison to the old setup.I find it much easier to pick the front wheel up now, I'm liking it so far.

I got a pair of Magicals from the Majesty site. Think I had the original 37 year old springs in my Fantic 200. I found them quite bouncy compared to the old ones, a bit disconcerting at first but soon got used to them. Unlike the OP I find it much easier to pick the front up. I have modern rear shocks but nowt fancy. Definitely time and money well spent. I have light fork oil and soggy rear shocks, seams to suit me for now.

Is it worth trying a new seal in there? I would have to get that crap off if it were mine...might end up putting some back on as last resort. Cases are hard to come by, repair is your best shot.

Are them numbers for the 200 pro? I have a 200 FM350 feels heavier than that Would like a 305 to add to the stable.