whitehillbilly

I would love one, Nice, Classic looking Classic Greeves

Time to dust the cobwebs off. First Trial in 3 weeks. Hope it cools off a bit. Mid 30's and 100% humidity at the moment. Very unpleasant. Think even the Greeves is sweating. Amazing these little air cooled engines manage the Cold, snow and ice, in the Scottish highlands, and upto the 40's here in Aus. whitehillbilly

Hi Trialsrfum. Yes original, as I got it, 25 yrs ago, as a barn find. I cut of original 'bar' type foot pegs off. Add folding ones. RH side has no spring, so can be folded up to kick start, when cold. starts to the foot peg when warm. Rock guards added, heavy duty, as the sections in Aus can have lots, and big. I added a chain tensioner, and cut an old chopping board, bending around the swing arm, as am running a 12T gearbox sprocket, and It was cutting in a bit. 60 thou OS Hepolite piston. Was 10 thou OS until piston circlip broke, the pin scored the barrel. Had to take it right out to remove score marks, so probably closer to 262cc now ???? Electrics are STD, lead soldered onto coil. Coil was re wound, by HI Output coils, Vic, AU, 20 odd years ago. The paint was matched from sample inside Brake hub, so probably very close to original Moorland Blue. Still have 1/2 ltr in tin for touch ups. Front fork bottom loop is thicker than original type. It was fitted. GRA member thought maybe off SAS model. NJB front and rear forks jacked it up higher than STD. Tool box has spare plug and a few tools in it. Still has the original Swing arm oiler, drip feed metering screw fitted. GRA member, who built the wheels at Greeves, supplied alloy rims and pre cut spokes. Alloy rims same fitted to 63 works bikes. Alloy exhaust, had perforated tube in the middle, packed with insulating wadding, with After market silencer fitted. Before and After. Nice and shiny back then. Whitehillbilly

Another good Trial. whitehillbilly

Good Day out on My Greeves. 40 trouble free section. 4 laps of 10. Villiers Services brake shoes and clutch mods have transformed the Bike. whitehillbilly

Seen on Land Rover forum. Glue rough sand paper to inside of drum with spray on adhesive. rub shoes along sand paper. Remove sand paper and wipe of glue with thinners. whitehillbilly

Trailered the Greeves to my local, Show And Shine. Then home and rode in my 77 Honda, CJ250T. whitehillbilly

All welded. Nothing disconnected. Just removed side covers and fuel tank. Lay bike throttle side down. Cleaned frame right next to weld point for earth lead. cleaned up crack and welded. Everything important was covered. Just pored clean water on weld when finished. Whitehillbilly

Didnt shave this morning. Yes, Rossi buckle up. Does take me 15 mins to put them on, does allow you coffee to cool a bit. Not welded yet. Still waiting for advice.

Well Santa has packed his Sleigh away for another year. The Greeves is all ready to go. First Trial Kicks off next week.

Well Santa has packed his Sleigh away for another year. All ready to go. First Trial Kicks off next week.

Well Fantic update. Radiator fan died. Cut it out and replaced with on of these, from my local electronics shop. 4 to 12V https://www.jaycar.com.au/12v-6-500-rpm-dc-electric-motor/p/YM2718 played with the carby and now runs beautifully, with the new bits and kit fitted. So will stick with the original one fitted, Atm First Trial of the year next week. Start second kick, discovered it needs to warm up a bit longer with choke on. After cleaning fork seals and replacing oil, neither leaking, forks need re chroming but used some fine wet and dry to smooth off pealing chrome. See what happens after a days riding. noticed RH head steady has cracked from the frame. Can weld, but do I need to disconnect any thing before doing it ???? Have a stick, DC welder. Can put the earth right on the weld point. Thanks, whitehillbilly

Thanks for the reply. What OKO carby did you fit? Looked at putting on of these on my section. Whitehillbilly

Well I stripped them down, cleaned, new oil, mix of SAE30 and ATF. to make up 200mils per leg. Old oil may have been ATF, very dirty with a tinge of Red. Understand how they work now. Will add some pics when I do the new seals. Surprised at no comments. You lot must be Hibernating. whitehillbilly

Happy 2017. Want to replace the front fork seals on my Fantic. Any advice or diagrams on how to do it? Any problems or special tools pulling them apart? Best place to get the 40mm bottom seals and wiper upper seals. Also the two lower seal retaining spring clip. Thanks.

Bike ran well all day. Idle was up and down a bit, as the motor warmed up and the powers to be suggested replacing the crank seals. Can the early sections be done with out splitting the motor ???? Anyone have crank seal measurements. Thanks whitehillbilly

Last trial of the year for the club tomorrow. Toss up between Greeves and Fantic. With the temp getting up possible around the mid 30's lighter bike won out. And Greeves gearbox bits, still to be ordered from Villiers services UK. 40 thou mainshaft play needs sorting with new parts. Storms also forecast, so may get wet and slippery quick. whitehillbilly

Good day at SQTA trial, a little warm at around 28oC Bike ran well. Did blow some fluid from radiator after long climb up to sections 7/8 and 9. Think I may have overfilled and it was finding the correct level. Did add 10/20 mils to top, just in case, as it looked more that that, that blew out. Radiator fan went all day, no problems, so spraying Inox into it must have helped. Stand worked a treat. 12 sections, 4 laps. Check out my old Rossi Boots. Anyone else still riding in a pair ???? Now watching our Rugby League grand final, with a few beers. What a great day. Will add a pic tomorrows, as Monday is a Public holiday. Also a pic of my mate, Jai on his 95 Beta Whitehillbilly

New Brake Pads have bed in nicely. Only problem, when opening up the rear calipers so the disk would go between them, I lost the rear peddle. Seem to have air bubbles in the line. 1/2 hr later all bled up, and working. whitehillbilly

Finished Stand Thanks to those involved. Trial Tomorrow, see how it goes, as I think the lower spring bolt could be another 15/20 mm lover, to keep the stand up tight. Whitehillbilly

Stand coming together. whitehillbilly

So for future reference, My Brake Pads were, EBC Brakes. Front/Rear FA115. The Wheel Bearings. Front /Rear 6004-2NSE9 ( Nachi ) whitehillbilly

Update, Had a play, on the section tonite before dark. Runs really good from idle up, pulls nicely through the gears until on full throttle. Even up an incline on full throttle, pulls nicely. One warmed up, riding up and down a few banks at idle the lumpiness reappeared. BUT, with choke half closed, it idled beautifully, but lost the rest of the throttle range. So back to the shed, to check the idle system and Air Screw. Stripped the air screw, removed the float bowl and removed the idle jet, lots of carby cleaner and air line. when spraying cleaner, through the Idle Air system, I could get it to go in, but didn't appear to come out anywhere inside the carby, except air screw hole or Air inlet hole at the air cleaner side. After more cleaner and air, things started squirted up from a small hole at the front of the carby. I think the idle Air system was blocked. I checked the float height, but couldn't match 24mm suggested on some paperwork, I downloaded on my model ( PHBH ) and the other original type ( PHBL ) suggested for the Fantic section. settled for 19mm as the fork arm and carby base was parallel at this measurement. Started reassembling, and noticed one of the 4 small idle jet holes were blocked, so again cleaner and air. So everything back and on. The bike started a lot better, than before, no throttle, first kick, usually needing 1/4 throttle. Also now screwing in the Air Screw, stalls the engine, which before, screwing it in and out had no effect on the running. I turned the Air Screw out 1 turn to start with, and will experiment. Will try tomorrow when motor is cold, with choke, to see how it starts. Thanks for all the replies. whitehillbilly

Fitted new rear wheel bearings in the Section Replacement ones, from local bike Shop, same brand as original ones removed ( Nachi) Also replaced rear brake pads. Old ones not that worn, but probably original and 20 yrs old. Whitehillbilly

Hi, The bleed nipple was where the Allen Bolt has now been put in. To get to the rear brake slave cylinder you must pull off the flywheel cover, pull off flywheel, then the inner cover can come off. Slave cylinder can now be seen. Whitehillbilly