wheelieman14

I had a 2012 GG TXT 280 that came with 11/39 final gearing. changing it to 10/39 helped me with the addition of a flywheel weight.

@splashcroft you actually need to use flywheel puller to see if there is removable weight added that can be removed... The newer generation Evo 250/300 models, since around 2013-15) have "inverted Flywheel/Stator" meaning the stator is attached to the flywheel cover (instead of internally). If flywheel is removed and you can view the backside (hidden in pic), that's where any possible screws would be located. That spark plug indicating a very rich (black) condition. Try raising the needle clip from 4th position down (stock, with 125 MJ) to 3rd clip position from the top (dropping needle into needle jet housing) to lean out low to midrange jetting. Might even be able to run 122 MJ and try increasing 48 Pilot (slow) jet to 50 or 52 to see if you can get maximum idle and crispness, once warmed up with air screw between 1.5 and 2.25 turns out? Last question... what Pre-mix oil and ratio are you running? I wouldn't go with any more oil than 80:1 ratio and prefer Motul 710 synthetic (over Motul 800, which has too high flashpoint), typically letting "spooge" drip out of exhaust silencer...

Where are you located? From my limited knowledge outside of USA-spec models; I believe in UK, that Beta UK prefers to have their 250/300cc Evo Models built with "heavier weighted flywheel" as standard build. With proper flywheel puller tool; it "might be possible" to remove flywheel to check if there is a weight "added onto the Standard flywheel (used in other countries). My experience is that in USA, the Beta Super Smooth heavier flywheel is built as a solid piece and not just an added on weight to increase Mass.

White Domino throttle tube is definitely "Fast action" throttle with less movement required than black tube throttle ~120 degrees total turn. What are you using for final gearing? My '22 Evo Factory 250 came stock with 10/42 gearing and had no problems revving right up. I switched to 9/43 gearing and prefer to use 2nd gear, instead of 1st; when riding sections - which allows closer steps to 3rd or 4th gear. Typically if bike is geared with taller gearing (i.e 11 or 12 tooth front sprocket) then 1st gear is still pretty usable, but then there is pretty big gap; shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. A 250 is generally a little more mellow than a 300, but something doesn't seem right, if "slow-revving" is interpreted as "sluggish".

you can get away with 7psi F & 5 psi R for general Trials riding. For competition, I drop down to about 5.25 psi Front & 3.5 to 4.25 psi Rear. This past Sunday was the first time this year I needed to go below 4 psi to get traction in sloppy muddy conditions. This is for Michelin X-Lite or Dunlop D803GP Trials tires.

Although the Factory Top Triple clamp has 3 location positions for the handlebar clamps, I noticed that those clamps (as well as V-Mar clamps) are "offset" from center, so there are also more options; such as turning around the clamps and using the forward-most location to get a smaller change. I'm still using the center mounting option; though I did easily go over the bars last Saturday at a competition when descending off a rock into another rock and stuffing front wheel!

Consider a 250cc model? Most of the tricks you mentioned seem to work well for 300cc bikes to tame them down. From my experience, the 250cc Beta Evo Factory is already pretty low compression.

I've been riding Beta Evo 200 & 300cc models. Currently have '21 Evo 200 Factory and have '22 Evo 250 Factory on order. As much as I like the 200; I'm ready to try out the 250. Experience so far, tells me that the 200 is plenty of machine, but requires a bit more technique; whereas the 300 seems to have instant power to get up the bigger obstacles and overkill for my Intermediate lines. Will see how the 250 works out.

What are you running for final gearing Dan? Having tried 9/43 gearing with good results on my Evo 300, I'm now running 10/48 and finding 2nd gear very adequate for plonking around in sections with my 20 Evo 300 Factory. Clutch is also working very well.

Beta offers clutch spring retaining washers that are flat, without any recess on spring pre-load on Evo 200, but also builds the Evo 250/300 models with retaining washers that are 1.5mm offset on one side and flat (no offset) on the other. Dan designed a 3mm offset washer; which used flat head allen screw to replace the OEM Evo clutch parts and can significantly reduce the amount of pressure needed to operate the clutch at the clutch lever. IMO, this is a much better solution than removing 2 of 6 clutch springs (which will most likely cause the clutch to slip in higher gears).

I think I got the last set the dealer had & you certainly helped me out with a handful of flat-head allen screws. Since the Evo 300 (and possibly Evo 250) already come with the red anodized 1.5mm offset clutch spring retaining washers; I've had good success using (3) 1.5mm offset washers; along with (3) 3mm offset washers you designed. Clutch pull is relatively easy and no noticeable slipping in higher gears.

1997 to 2001 Model Trials bike is going to depend on how hard a life it's had so far... Tires, chain, sprockets, brake pads, rotors, levers, grips and footpegs are typical wear parts and still available, since they share fitment with many newer model bikes. Though a 1999 model can be 23 years old, many of the parts you mentioned rarely even need replacing. Used bike prices are pretty high lately, so be cautious when buying something so old.

Wheelieman14 is here also

I started off on GasGas TXT 280 and right off the bat it needed smaller front sprocket and flywheel weight. Evo 200 is ideal starter bike, though even the 11/42 stock gearing seemed a bit tall for me, since I'm carrying 25-30 pounds more than you, so I like 10/42 or 10/43 gearing. My Evo 300 certainly has plenty of grunt, and I prefer 9/43 gearing (over stock 10/42) but adding a heavier SS Flywheel certainly tames the bike down. I prefer 2nd gear or even 3rd gear for bigger hills when riding sections on the 300.

Beginning in 2019 the Beta Evo bikes no longer have a switch to turn off the headlight. Personally, I prefer the light on all the time; to make sure there is power available for radiator fan to turn on, as needed. If you want to turn light off, just unplug connector to it.

Up close view of 2021 Beta Evo Factory 200 Flywheel, which now appears to be very similar to the Flywheel used in the bigger brother Evo 250/300 models, but turned down for less Mass. S3 Flywheel weight Part# FW-BE (weighs 13.7 oz.) was intended for older Evo 250-290 models (with plastic flywheel cover), but should fit at least through 2019 Beta Evo 200 Standard models. Here is reference of Flywheels for later model Beta Evo models: 2021 Evo 200 Factory stock flywheel (as shown in picture) weighs 5 lbs, 4 oz. 2016 Evo 300 stock flywheel weighs 6 lbs, 4 oz 2016 Evo 300 Super Smooth (Beta Part# AB-80015-H) weighs 6 lbs, 14 oz

Get in touch with Mike Komer in Locke, NY; if you are interested in TRIALS, and not necessarily just "Trail Riding". Tryalshop.com is web site for contact information. He also has many sections already built for Trials. 3DTrials.org is for Upstate Eastern New York (we just had an event in Preston/Oxford, NY last Sunday) District4Trials.org is for Upstate Western New York (there is event scheduled for this Sunday in Cuba, NY)

I believe you are experiencing a short somewhere in the headlight harness, that prevents the DC voltage from properly getting to your radiator fan & tail light. I noticed in my 16 Evo 300, when the headlight was connected; there are 2 insulated pins that connect to Halogen bulb and the insulation wore through letting the 2 wires have intermittent short-circuit. The above solution that lineaway suggests would help resolve this issue.

Beta makes special tool for that fork cap, costs around $60. Someone posted on FaceBook that they can make them for much less.

I bought some Castrol Water Pump grease to lubricate impeller shaft and oil seal inner surface from Rimmerbros.co.uk. Castrol Water Pump Grease (for Gland Type Water Pumps NLG14) It seems to work well, but also think that a waterproof wheel bearing grease would suit this need.

BPR7ES is projected tip, but same heat range as BR7ES. Either spark plug will work fine.

heated ultrasonic cleaner with diluted simple green for a few cycles is worth a try to clean out clogged jets

I have '16 Evo 300 that has plenty of snap when I need it, but I customized it to help with going slower in tight sections. Went from 10/42 stock gearing to 10/44 and use 1st gear for most everything, except bigger hill climbs like 2nd gear. Modified Domino white "fast action" throttle tube to be "slow action, just off idle", then fast action for anything over 1/4 throttle. Also tried Super Smooth heavier flywheel (+10 ounces over stock) and added weighted "Anti-Stall Primary Gear". Combination of both was too much; so went back to stock flywheel - keeping weighted primary gear. I compete with EVO 200 and it really is the perfect bike for sections, but doesn't have the grunt for riding the loop trail that the 300 has. For bushwhacking, hands down, the 300 will pretty much go anywhere with no complaints.

12 st comes out to be about 168 lbs. I weigh about 200 lbs (~14.5 stone), but was around 220 to 230 lbs wearing all my riding gear and lugging around water to drink in a back pack (Camel Bak). At 12 st, I would think the stock 70Nm rear spring should be fine for you. Looking at the above Reiger Spring chart, I'm about 100 kg (dressed) so the 80Nm spring seemed to be appropriate for a beginner Trials rider. Your stock spring should have its spring rate painted on it. Try increasing to around 5 to 8mm of spring preload to see if that helps. Another thing to consider is that as your skills improve, you might get more comfortable with softer springs and more compliant suspension. I run long-travel Ohlins shocks on my Beta Evo Trials bikes and like the softest springs I can find. My son is running 55N spring on Evo 125 Factory. I'm running 65N spring on my Evo 200 and 63N spring on my Evo 300 that's fitted with Longest travel Ohlins shock and Remote Reservoir. I've also lost about 20 lbs, so overall everything seems to work better. I'm riding my 5th season of competition and consider myself an average Intermediate rider now.

Stock Reiger spring was 70N. I tried 72.5N & 75.0N springs and didn't see much difference over stock spring. Still have 80N spring that I liked the best; since I sold bike with 75N spring. Very little difference between 2.5Nm steps.