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About thall1

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Beta Evo 4t

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  • Location
    South west
  1. 4T not disengaging 2nd gear fully

    Hi guys, its a 2013 4t... sometimes when going from 2nd to 3rd it sounds and feels like its still semi engaged in 2nd and 3rd at the same time?...the first time I thought it sounded like the chain was tangled up in something. I re selected second and rode for a few yards the went to 3rd with no problem.... it doesn't happen very often, probably 3 or 4 times over the last 6 months... oil & filter is changed every 5-6 rides. motul 5000 10-40...also used in a rev4t and a 2014 4t. nothing shows up when the oil is drained, sump plug is clean, so i'm not desperate to start digging around but any ideas what I should be looking for if I do decide at some point to strip it down?
  2. gear oil will also over time swell the clutch plates...I've found that ATF oil has a greater effect on the clutch plates swelling but ATF is considerably cheaper than Putoline and the like so given that, I chose to use ATF and sand the clutch plates down once a year or so...
  3. Chain Tension & Wheel Alignment

    I'm pretty sure the rim offset is 25mm measured from the outer face of the brake disc to outer rim of the wheel. This is the dimension I used on a 2004 txt...
  4. The fibre plates swell slightly increasing the pack height over a period of time, the steel plates don't change. All I've done in the past is remove and clean the oil from the fibre discs with acetone or celelouse thinners. Then gently rub both sides on a sheet of 320 or 400grit wet/dry paper placed on a good flat surface. As your rubbing the plate try to keep rotating it to rub evenly. Blow off the dust that's left and remeasure the pack height. It doesn't take much to get it down to 9.75mm so you don't need to put much pressure when your rubbing down. You can also give the steel plates a good run over with coarse sandpaper to take the glaze off. It will help to stop any clutch drag for a while until they glaze back up again.
  5. RT260 front caliper

    Yes it will go back together... Should just be a small o ring between the joint... You'll probably be able to re use it
  6. Any reason for a beginner not to get a 250 4t?

    I went from gas gas 250's to a Montesa 4rt then a beta evo 300 4t... I wouldn't go back to a 2t as I find the 4t easier to find grip with and even the 300 is docile... My son rides an evo 300 4t considerable harder than I could even dream about but it's also mellow enough for my over 50's style!..We've also got a Rev 4T 250 which is even more docile.. Don't let the carb issue put you off... It's a bit tricky on both bikes but not difficult, just take your time. Oil and filter change is easier than a Montesa, the filter has its own cover with three bolts and same oil for engine and clutch. I grant you that the valve adjustment will need the engine out but it shouldn't be a regular occourance to adjust them. If anything it'll give you the opportunity to give it a good clean and inspection if they do need doing. Any bike will run away if you get it wrong... And after a short time you'll perfect the art of bailing off the bike rather than holding on for too long!.. Good luck!
  7. My boy wants to ride

    If you have a Gas Gas, I would suggest he gets the same make just so you get to know one make of bike rather than two. Also, the spares may crossover in most cases as long as the bike years are not too far apart. Engine size would depend on your local meeting rules....if he's not restricted by rules then get what ever comes along, 125 or 250. I know of 14 yr. olds on 250 Gas Gas with no problems. I'd avoid a 280 as I've heard they are a bit fiery.
  8. Rear brake blowing bubbles

    I have replaced the 'square' piston seals with 'O' rings..it's worked for me on Montesa 4rt, gas gas and beta. Ive fitted o rings that are either very slightly smaller ID than the piston OD or the same size with the same thickness as the square seal... Plenty of suppliers around and usually I've got 10off seals for just a few £...I have made new Pistons if they have been mauled by previous owners trying to prise them out but in most cases the corrosion if you have any is from the seal outwards so a gentle rub with scotch brite or wet and dry should clean it up ok

    If your adjusting the mixture screw around the position it is now and it's not doing much then it's probably wound too far out to have any effect on idle. Try adjusting the mixture screw in (or out depending if it's an air of fuel screw) until the revs reach their highest then adjust the tick over back to where you want it
  10. 2016 4T Hot ?

    we have 2 4t's one 2013 & a 2014....both start fine if they are shut off on the kill switch but we find the hotstart doesn't do anything if the bikes have been on the floor or stalled so we start them on full throttle...works every time for us...

    if its a fuel screw then open it up to increase the fuel, if its an air screw then close it up to reduce the air - reduces the air to fuel mix ratio..there plenty on this site about setting up these carbs.....I think there are some mods that can be done as well....

    its probably running too lean.... just richen up the bottom end a little at a time and see if it helps....
  13. Jitsie mixture screw

    well done!
  14. monty info from new owner

    The manuals and parts listings are on line... I used to use 5w40 in the engine/gearbox and ATF dextron II or III in the clutch. Oil filter for the engine is inside of the stator casing.(left hand side).. You might want to get a new gasket before you start as it may rip when the casing comes off. It tends to split where the rubber grommet is. I used to stick the torn bit back down with a small dab of non hardening gasket seal. Both oil drains are on the left hand side. The gear lever will need to come off and the sump plate if you want to avoid a mess!... There's a dip stick for the engine oil... I think it's about 600ml for an oil and filter change in the book but think it was 660ml once it had been checked. Run the bike up for a few minutes then let it stand upright for 3 mins and check the level. Just unscrew the dipstick and push it in rather than screw it in to check the level. Clutch is 550ml I think..no dipstick on clutch. I used to change oils every 4 rides or so but can't remember what the manual says for intervals.
  15. Jitsie mixture screw

    i would advise not to try that....too many pipe and cables, wires etc. in the way....its a bit of a fiddle getting it out but that's the way I would go.. remove: mudguard airbox with the two rear subframe brackets. You don't need to remove the subframe brackets but it gives you a lot more room and saves poking yourself in the eye whist you work! There are two pipes that fit on spigots and pushed into the bottom of the airbox on rubber grommets. If the back wheel is removed you can allow the airbox to hang with these two pipes still connected. throttle cable from the throttle and then from the carb fuel line airbox to carb rubber boot carb to engine rubber boot - you can ease the carb backwards to get this out on 2014 bikes with the hydroform frame remove the top shock mount bolt and allow the shock to drop down and backwards. On the square box frame bikes up to 2013 you don't need to do this but it would give a bit more room. with a bit of manoeuvring the carb will come out of the left hand side. take note of the breather pipe locations and how they run. You may find the ends clamped behind the rectifier mounting bracket. You can loosen the bracket by undoing the two bolts with an 8mm socket. There should be a drain hose on the bottom of the carb, I've removed this from my bikes as I've never yet had to drain the carb to remove water and if I do I'll just let it drain over the top of the engine casing and it means one less pipe to fiddle with - your choice... With the carb off you can also give it a good clean on both the carb and rear of engine. on refit: check the carb to engine boot goes on the correct way round - it is handed!...look for the distance between the end of the rubber and the locating ring on the inside. Some bikes have silicon aftermarket hose fitted in place of the beta rubber hose. Personally I don't like these as with silicon you can overtighten and distort rubber causing an air leak.. also the airbox to carb rubber has slightly different diameters so orientation also needs to be checked. The airbox to carb jubilee clamps are best located so the airbox side screw is accessed from behind the kick start and the carb side is accessed from the gap in the top of the frame on the left hand side. just check and double check that the two rubber boots don't slip off when tightened, and the carb is sitting straight without fouling the frame. I can get ours out and back on within an hour including a bit of a clean..will take a bit longer the first time hope this helps..good luck