misterroy

All the best for 2014. I bought a 2015 Sherco this December. Took it home and went up a nearby hill, no problem. It was in the back of the van overnight. I took it out, started it and rode about 200M down the road before the front brakes stopped me. A bit of forwards and backwards, and they were freed enough to get home. About a week later, the brakes stopped me again. Both of these days were cold, 0 to 5 °C.. When I got home, I pushed the pistons in, pulled the brake, etc. The front brake was fine on the next spin, but it was warmer. Is it a temperature problem?

I have an 03 290. When I bought the bike the CDi and rectifier were just stuffed up above the radiator just sitting there. I have since bought the bracket to mount the c|di, but cant figure how it all fits in. Any advice or pics?

No dribbling observed

I made one using a heat gun.

2003 sherco 290 I have discovered a helicoil repair on one of the two threaded holes that attaches the exhaust onto the cylinder. This repaired hole can accomodate a 25mm long bolt when the exhaust is in place. The standard size is 20 mm. By drilling in the extra depth could the repair have gone in far enough to reach a port or is the cylinder solid at the front and I have nothing to worry about? The cylinder is off for a replate just now so I cant look to see if this is the reason it threw out the water.

Thanks, but the ones are for a different brake, or will they fit old ajp brakes?

Hi, I bought a piston and seal kit for my AJP inboard rear brake.(2003) I nipped the seal putting the piston in. Is there somewhere I can buy just the seals, as I have new pistons ? thanks

I have come up with a plan "B" .. One of the bolt holes in the top of the exhaust has failed leaving a 6mm hole into the exhaust chamber, currently sealed with liquid metal. I have some 4mm glass fiber rope which should be easy enough to feed into the hole. Its intended use is for sealing a stove. Any thoughts?

I have an 03 sherco and the exhaust needs to be cut open to repack it. Before I start on this task, what damage could I be doing running it in its present, noisy state? thanks

My Kick has got better. My riding has also got a bit less fearful going downhill, so I stall less. I open up the throttle more on the kick. It is no longer a problem three times a trip. It maybe is one time in three trips. If I move to where a rock is holding the bike up and I can put what energy I have into a kick it starts. I blame my kick.

Clutch now functioning as it should, the perils of working on the bike when I should be having a snooze. The washer behind the pressure plate had fallen off without me noticing, causing the slip. It is back in. All is good. Next project is either an exhaust weld, or the fork seals. Thank you all for your help.

Yeh, it is not sticking. Boo its slipping. Lightly rubbed the steel disks, fresh oil, the last of the 75w, and I came unstuck. Been spinning around at the house, it is slipping. Enough for today, I will see what it wants to do tomorrow.

It has only sticking for the whole two hour ride on Saturday, it was working on Friday night, never stuck before. It would be stuck just about every time I pulled the clutch on Saturday, even after being freed at the previous stop.

bought some Putoline Nano Trans GP Transmission Oil, following splatshop recommendation

The Service manual says SAE 10W/40, and that is the grade of the Putoline. I am away to dig on the sherco site. ta.

The clutch is sticking pretty bad. (If you fix something something else goes). The bike will travel 10 yards after the clutch has been pulled fully, a burst of the throttle may loosen it, so might the front brake. The front brake led to frequent stalls. There is a gear oil leak, think it is from the crankcase, I have been topping up the oil. I have put the bike on its side to take the plates out. I tried the clutch with the cover off and there was a suctiony release clicky noise each time I operated it. I have the clutch plates out and the friction plates average out at 2.56mm thick, the individual one I measured across the friction squares came in at 2.66mm. I had to prise them apart with my nails, they came apart with a click.They seemed stuck to each other with a thin film of oil. New they are about 2.7 mm so they do not look too worn to me. The oil is putoline light gear 75w The steel plates appear flat when tried on glass. The clutch was fine when I went up a hill on Friday Night, but not from the Start till the end of the two hour ride on Saturday. My guess would be the wrong amount of gear oil, any suggestions.

Good idea Paul, maybe the other way, there is enough weight behingd the leg, maybe a shorter kick start would reduce the distance my leg has to travel, giving a quicker spin.

Adjusted the fuel screw, and today I can mostly kick it. Last night went up a hill no problem in that i did not stall, today the flipping clutch was sticking so there were a few stalls caused by having to react to the clutch. Managed to start without any help from the crew today

Once started it is good. Idles OK Crank seal new. Bearings new. Havent tried with the throttle fully open, tried with choke, which is usually how it gets going. I have only tried bump starting it once, the ground was dry enough, it went. Others in the crew can kick it, they have a more powerful kick than me. Cleaning the carb would that mean the fuel is not getting through? If the floats were wrong what would that do? Gonna adjust the carb screws.

The woodruff key is only there to align the flywheel during assembly. It is the taper that holds it in place relative to the shaft. You need to lap the flywheel to the shaft. It does not take much to do it. I havent watched this video, but I think it is what you want.

It usually happens going downhill, a misjudgement and I stall the bike. If I can kick it within about 3 seconds it has a good chance of starting, but often I am not in a good position to kick it immediately. If it is getting to ten seconds I might have to wait for it to cool off before I can start it. I know part of the problem is my kick, which is improving, but the amount of muscle in my leg is not what it was. If the bike is cold I put on the choke, push the kick start gently a couple of times to suck some fuel in, then give it a kick to start it. This works for the first start of the day, and will work if I let the bike get cold after stalling while out riding. The gap at the plug is 0.5mm. Anything mechanical I can do to make it start after a stall?

Hi, I am in the process of fixing up a 2003 sherco and the bleed screw at the rear brake is not the standard 6mm. It looks like a 7mm diameter bleed screw has been used, the small hole at the end of it has been crushed to an oval, and the tip looks knarled. I am struggling to bleed the brake. The assembly was working before the rebuild. How easy would it be to rethread the caliper to take a different bleed screw? thanks

Was told when I bought it it was an 06, just put the number in here,VNBS129TR3A012060 http://www.analogx.com/cgi-bin/cgivin.exe , and it is an 03 thanks pauls320

Hi, I thing I have a 2006 290 Sherco, the bottom bearing is finished, I ordered one and the new bearing is 26mm OD, the old bearing was 22mm OD. Is this not the original shock? The are no markings on the shock.

Googling may not work for this one, "We dont do Sherco" is the reply from 3 businesses so far.