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Whenever I am dealing with points, I put an ohmmeter on the points wire and check for a proper connection. The points may look OK but you need to check if they are making a proper electrical connection.

I do not believe you will find any official rules for twinshocks in Canada. I have ridden twinshock classes for many years and it is just generally accepted that you are supposed to ride a bike that originally came with 2 shocks. It is normally just a fun outing on the old iron. DonD (Vancouver area)

I would never use anything except the full compliment bearing. The bearings are under a tremendous load and I would want to spread that load as far as you can.

I usually change the filter every 2nd oil change. I smear a thin coat of grease on the gasket (both sides) so that it does not stick to the cases. I do that because #1 I'm Cheap #2 I hate scraping the old one off #3 It is too easy to damage the case as you scrape the gasket off. If you use good oil there should be no problem with changing the oil only. The filter is there to collect large pieces out of the oil. It is a rare day when a Montesa has large pieces in it so I think we throw out a lot of oil filters that are still perfectly good.

I use the BP plugs in all the trials bikes and I have not found one yet that has clearance problems. I have a shop and work on them all. The projected nose seems to work well. the idea is that at low revs it will stay hotter (less fouling) and will not be as hot when there is lots of flow to cool it (high revs).

I am using Betor gas shocks on mine and so far I am pleased with them. I thought at first that they were too soft with the regular spring and the forward mount but after riding awhile I think I will leave them be. I weigh about 200 lb. dressed to ride. DonD

I have a friend with 4 stroke Scorpa that put a Rekluse clutch on it and then put the rear brake line to the clutch master cylinder. That was made easy by the fact that the Rekluse clutch from the Yamaha WR250F fit right on. However, if you can find a Rekluse that would fit, it would be more reasonably priced.

I have a VW Rabbit pickup that is really small but I can get 2 bikes in and close the tailgate. What I do is put the bikes in with the front wheel turned sharply into the front corner of the box. The bike is not 6 ft. long when the wheel is turned.

I owned one of the TYZs and it was bulletproof for the 7 years I owned it. It was 3 years old when I bought it too! So I would spring for that one. The Aprilia is really going to be hard to find parts for in Canada. I am on the west coast and I have not heard of anyone having Aprilia parts for many years. Don @ Cascade Motorsports

If you watch any of the Youtube videos of the Japanese Championship, you will see that most of the top riders are on Scorpa/Yamahas. They borrowed Scorpas from the factory last year. That option is not available this year and I think that is at least one big reason why they are not coming this year.

The piston to take it out to a 145cc is Honda CB750 (1969-1978) piston. The best idea is to get a Sammy Miller kit if they still do it. The kit contains the very thick head gasket that you will need or the compression will be horrendous. You can pile up base gaskets and cut your own head gasket (for the bigger hole) but that is a complicated thing to figure out.

I have worked as a motorcycle mechanic for 40 years and I have rarely seen an ignition coil go bad. That said, I did have one go bad on my 1993 Yamaha TYZ250. It got proressively harder to start and after checking everything else, I replaced the coil (I had one to try) and that solved the problem. However, as was previously said, that is a very rare fault. I would recommend that you get the specs for all three coils (exciter,trigger,ignition) and measure them. Replace any not within specs. Then if the problem is still there, replace the CDI box. The best thing is if you can find someone with a similar bike who will let you swap parts one at a time until it works. Then you will know which part to buy. DonD

I did not change anything in the engine. I just switched to an appropriate countershaft sprocket. I can't remember which size now but it was probably the same size as the Tl usually comes with. The brake pivot has to be cut off the frame and welded in furthur to the back. Test fit the engine to see where it needs to go and allow enough room to attach the brake arm and rod. I remember putting mine too close and it was always hard to work on and get at. You may want to extend your brake lever if you put the pivot furthur back.

I put a 185 in a TL years ago and enjoyed the bike for years. Get a wiring diagram and just hook up the wires necessary for spark. You do not need a battery. The only modification I remember doing to make things fit was to move the rear brake pedal pivot back in the frame. You need to make a little space for the decompression release stuff that they used in the 185 and 200. I did not hook up the decompression cable and , in fact, left the arm off at the case.

I have an 82 Ossa TR80 350 and I need to know what the original jet sizes are for the Amal Mk2 carb. Does anyone have that info. I have spent a lot of time on the net looking and I am surprised that info is not out there somewhere. DonD

If there is no dicernable up and down play on the connecting rod then it does not need replacing. It probably will last the next 10 years. But there are no guarentees on things like that in life. If you do take the crank apart definatly replace the pin, bearing, washers and con rod. the rod is the outer race for the bearing and I would not think of replacing only part of the parts once you are in there. DonD

I use Silkolene Light Gear oil in Yamaha engines because then the clutch plate don't stick together as badly when the bike is stood for awhile.

I use Silkolene Light Gear oil in Yamaha engines because then the clutch plate don't stick together as badly when the bike is stood for awhile.

Yamaha clutch plates like to stick together when they are parked for awhile. Try driving back and forth holding the clutch lever in and going on and off the throttle. Best done in 3rd or 4th gear. If that does not do it you may need to get the clutch cover off and physically pry the plates apart. I recomend Silkolene Light Gear oil to reduce theproblem in the future.

I have the Dunlop trials tire at my shop for $125 (rear) and you don't have to go across the border or pay for the US dollar. DonD @ Cascade Motorsports in Mission B.C.

I remember going up a relatively small rock face many years ago on an Ossa and my chest hit the kill button. Unfortunatly the kill button was the kind that locked on. So I rolled to a stop in the middle of the section. Learned a good lesson there.

Heat and a big hammer are , unfortunately, the way to get it apart. You will need a rebore and new piston and rings. The crank might be OK. You can see when you get there.

What I did on my 320 (Majesty) was to weld on an additional row of teeth just behind the 2 rows that are there. Much more comfortable, puts your weight back a little and you don't need to modify brackets

I am quite certain that the seat and tank and maybe gearing are the only differences. I have a 72 Ossa and I have seen a number of Explorers and I think that is about it.

I owned both a TYZ250 and a sy250 (same motor) With the TYZ, the clutch would stick if I let it sit for 2 weeks or more. I would have to break it loose by riding in 3rd gear holding in the clutch and twisting the throttle up and down. Then I put Silkolene light gear oil in it and it never did that again. So change your oil!