seedoubleyou

Thanks for that. I’ll look to go for the 2nd gear mod then Looking at the gearbox I have here, It looks like I’ll have to remove the small ‘end gear’ which looks like it’s pressed on to get to the new pinion. Any idea how I can do this? Is there a special tool or will I need to make one? It’s currenty 17t so will need changing anyway. Also it’s been a while since I’ve had a Cub engine apart. Is it possible to remove the sprocket attached to the sleeved high gear and take the gearbox out or is it a complete crankcases apart job? I ask as the gearbox in the engine, which my late father built, has a std gearbox fitted thanks

It’s about time I started again on the Cub prep. I’d appreciate your opinions on the following 2nd gear 26/19 - is it worth the effort and expense? PVL or HPI - the only experience I’ve had with PVLs is to understand they are pretty basic with little advance. thanks in anticipation

Very good. Thanks chaps

I'm about to start doing my cub engine and will opt for an electronic ignition. Does anyone know where I can get the pillars welded for a PVL or HPI? While I'm at it, the bike was my old mans and he was going to do the window mod to access the drive sprocket. I believe Ray Small did this mod. If he still operating?

The trial last weekend was my first. I was made to feel most welcome, good bunch of lads and a fantastic venue. I've lived in Somerset for nearly 50 years and didn't realise that this place existed. A good selection of bikes and good routes. Suffice to say I'll be doing another one with the club next weekend.

I have taken Spens advice and Steve Panter sorted me out with a new carb. The result, the bike is a lot easier to start with a choke and runs a little better. However on checking the plugs after a trial I found it was running way to lean, so raised the needles a little to the last slot and that seems to improve things. A new main is on its way. However I still struggle with bogging coming off tickover onto the needle. The carb is fitted with an O-2 needle jet and 5C23 needle. I'm not good with jetting in this area so has anyone changed this part if the circuit. In summary when I snap the throttle open it just doesn't pick up. I can't decide if it's too weak, not enough fuel, or too rich, too much fuel. Any help appreciated as I have a trial next weekend I'd like to attend . Thanks

I went for a first ride on my restored Ossa MAR today and experienced a few issues I have put down to carb. The AMAl is the original from 1973 so I figure it has probably seen better days. All I know is that despite new jets and refurb kit the bike has no zip making climbing banks almost impossible. I'm thinking therefore of changing carbs to a Mikuni. I appreciate that this one has been done to death but...The general concensus seems to be a 150 main and 35 pilot on a VM26 Mikuni but this is only part of the story. The Needle and Jet needle are very important also. The standard VM26 comes with a O-0 needle Jet and a 4J13 Jet needle. For those who have fitted a VM26 to an Ossa Mar, did you need to play around or change these jets?

I'm thinking this one might be a better bet

I'm looking for a sump guard for my Cub. I've seen this snazzy looking thing from Sammy Miller...er made of plastic. Can I ask whether anyone has fitted one of these and if they are robust. I'm guessing the alternative is the steel one from Meridan offroad

I thought I'd let you know how this one ended up. To to begin with the original silencer appeared to be touching the tyre. See below. So I purchased some 38mm mild steel pipe from eBay and welded up an angle. This slipped nicely over the original pipe with a little Dremel work on the inside of the tube. I also invested in a £12 pit bike silencer just to see what it was like. It turned up and didn't look half bad. The bore was also 38mm so an easy fit. I then made a small bracket using a bit of strip from the 2 mudguard mounts to the can strap also provided with the can. Having run the bike insilenced and with the new can there is a big difference which I think will be acceptable

Thanks Lotus. This diagram is very useful however it shows the spare wires other than the coil are red, white and green. I have red, brown, green/white. Puzzled

Hello. Can someone be kind enough to let me know what the wiring arrangement is on an OSSA MAR Motoplat. Here is what I have. Blue / Black - go to the coil. Any idea what the following do; Red / Brown / Green & White. im looking for 6v DC to drive a horn or a supply I can regulate. thanks.

Here is a picture of the cub from some time back. He started a thread on the Cubsite forum which on revisiting is an interesting read. http://www.cubsite.com/cubforum/viewthread.php?tid=1925&page=1

I've inherited a Tiger Cub from my late father. The old boy bought it way back in the 70s as a trialer and intended to finish it off. He died nearly 40 years later having nearly finished it and now it's time for me to spend the next 40 years carrying his legacy forward. My thinking here is that it MUST be finished as he would turn in his grave if it got put onto eBay. So here is what we have. 21" front wheel, Triumph Mountain Cub forks and yolks, points in the side engine with electronic ignition, Ray Small wider swinging arm, a load of standard bits, a good trials tank and tinwear. Sorry for the preamble and onto my question. How strict are they on eligibility? I want to keep the Heavyweight forks but will convert them using some stuff I can adapt. The plan would involve drilling a hole on top of the big fork crown nuts and inserting a stainless steel dome head screw on top. Would some rivet counting scrutiniser type call me up for it? Thats all for now but I'm sure I'll be back with a few more questions over the next month or so, e,g, footrest position, how to make a bash plate, gearbox ratios, etc..

Thanks all. Conclusion then is that the WES option needs a bit of fiddling and the other most likely is that the pips is bent. The end of the mid section does seem to come out fairly straight and square which is why I thought it was a silencer issue. Ok so mudguard and seat off for a ponder.