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71zman

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About 71zman

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  1. Connect the white wire lug back to the coil bolt and connect the green wire to it. Try it and see if you have a spark. If no spark - it looks like the red wire is probably connected to the kill switch (seems to be hooked to the black wire from the engine to the coil) - unhook the red wire leaving the black wires connected and try it again - I once had the kill switch malfunction that gave me the same problem. If these don't work, next would be as pointed out above, plug, points, coil. bret
  2. This sounds like the grounding problem that the Alpina lighting system is known for. The stock Alpina's have the green (ground) wire from the engine grounded through the rear brake light bulb so if the bulb goes out, the engine stops (the engine looses it's ground). To get it running make sure the black wire from the engine is connected to the black wire on the coil and connect the green wire from the engine to the coil ground (i.e. the bolt that holds the coil to the frame) and see if you get spark. bret
  3. I had this problem with my M49 and it turned out to be a adjustment issue with the central silencer. To fix it, I took the tank off and removed the rear and central silencers. Loosen the chrome front exhaust pipe and rotate pipe so it is closer to the head fins and tighten the exhaust screw ring. I then worked on fitting the central exhaust silencer to the chrome pipe, It took some "tweaking" to get this to fit correctly. Part of the issue is how the pipes connect (how far the central silencer slides onto the chrome pipe) and part of the issue is adding spacers to the mounting bracket that attaches the silencer to the large engine mounting bolt. One trick is to do the tweaking of the central silencer without the rubber joint. Once I got the central unit to fit correctly, I reassembled and the space between the chrome exhaust pipe and the tank is adequate bret
  4. Nice job! What is under the dome on the fork tree? I recognize the speedometer but what is on the other side?
  5. An American method to apply heat is to use "the Weber" - a gas BBQ that you cook your steaks on. I heat the BBQ to around 500 F, put the cases in and let them soak about 10 minutes - I use a low cost non-contact infrared thermometer to measure the case temp - when they get to 400F they are ready for assembly. The advantage of this method is the wife doesn't get mad about messing up the oven in the kitchen although I must admit my steaks have hint of Castrol seasoning on them....... Also - I prefer to put the bearings in the case first as described above by dadof2 - nice description.
  6. What a sad loss for our community - Larry knew his Bultaco's and was happy to share. The last time I emailed him with a question, he apologized for being late with the answer indicating he was sick but went on to give me the right advice. God's speed Larry......
  7. Well that is really interesting. Comparing it to my model 49 it looks like the rake on the front fork is more vertical, the rear swing arm looks shorter and the foot pegs are lower. Nice bike!
  8. Very nice! What coating did you use on the frame? It looks like a nickel finish... I also appreciate the modification to the rear fender - looks like it was shortened and a mud flap added. Seeing that gives me ideas for my model 49. I was at a vintage trials a few weeks ago near Palmdale CA - desert course with a lot of rocks - I was going down a little hill and the bike just went down hard.. hmm - got up and tried to push it off the course and the back wheel was locked up - I carried it off the course and discovered a pretty large rock wedged between the aluminum fender and the swing arm and was it ever stuck. Ended up having to deflate the rear tire to get it to out - as I said - makes me appreciate your the rear fender modification.
  9. Here is the info - saw this bike run at the local Southern California Vintage Trials a few weeks ago - looked good! http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/mcy/5563190344.html