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kurtas

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  1. You should be able to get the coils rewound rather than getting a replacement. If you can find a manual I would think also they would have some resistance values stated, once you warmed it up you could check these values against what you are getting to confirm it is the stator.
  2. I would be looking at the HT coil (In my opinion most likely) and then the stator/magneto. Also worth giving the spark plug lead a bit of a jiggle to see if that is the cause. A small amount of corrosion may not be a huge issue on the stator.
  3. I am running 10/40 gearing on a 2022 Evo 300 Factory, use first most places and go up to 2nd for the bigger climbs. Stock 10/42 was too slow, 11/42 was too fast, 10/40 is just right.
  4. Have you set the points gap correctly? If the points don't open properly the condensor will not build the charge to then spark.
  5. Very neat looking Hydraulic clutch conversion. I have a TL320. Gear Oil - I use ATF fluid but can't see a problem with what you have suggested, and yes you remove the SHCS behind the gear lever to set the level. Key thing to do is to remove the drain plug (using a Hex Drive) and not the kickstart stop bolt (which has a Hex Head) when draining the oil. Premix - every answer is valid depending on how you want to ride the bike, I normally ride at 80:1 in competition trials but if you are doing trail work I would look at 50:1 with the modern synthetic oils. Suspension - If you just bottom on trails then you are probably set up perfect for a competition trials event. MotoSWM in the UK are most helpful for parts and information.
  6. Key is to try and get an oil with a low burning temperature (flash point). Have a look at the oils in your shop and pick one that is on the lower end of the burning temperature as Trials motors generally don't get hot enough to correctly burn the most fantastic fully synthetic oils designed for race bikes.
  7. 200 has 50cc less capacity but benefits from 1 extra gear which makes travelling on road sections easier. Believe the 250's are slightly steeper in the front end but someone will correct that.
  8. My experience with the Beta is they are lacking compared to the Mont in power, so it would feel sluggish in comparison. Obviously if it has the slow action tube fitted that wouldn't help matters.
  9. kurtas

    Throttle

    I assume you are currently using the fast action throttle tube (White in colour, as opposed to the slow action black).
  10. In Motion in the UK are selling new stanchions, if your stanchions are more than just a little rusty you might find it will be more cost effective to purchase new items.
  11. What speed is your idle set at? Ensure you have not put too much oil onto the air filter.
  12. I assume it is not hard to turn when the spindle nut is loose? Have you fitted the same bush/spacer that is placed inside the hub between the two wheel bearings on the spindle?
  13. GRO 75W Gear Extreme is a very good replacement for ELF
  14. Theoretically the woodruff key should not take any load from the engine at all, it only locates the flywheel correctly for timing purposes. I would be investigating the torque you are using to retain the flywheel onto the tapered fit. Also worth checking the tapered fit itself and maybe lapping it to correct if the fit/surface is poor.
  15. I'd be checking the throttle cable/carb. You might have a cable routing issue which is holding the slide slightly open.
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