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drca

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About drca

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  1. That's how my 2013 250 Pro is setup. The wiring loom is pretty messy and packed up under there, but it's mile better than my Scorpa. I've been thinking about try to make a setup similar to the Sherco / Scorpa / Beta with the CDI hanging on the side of the cylinder, but since it's been working fine so far, I haven't had a need for it.
  2. Thanks! Where can I get the intake manifold (is it the one off the Raga?)? The carbs are actually close to new (Kawasaki factory supported mini top level racer moved to bigger bike and his dad was liquidating his stock of parts). Now... What's the magic jetting for the TXT 250 (main, pilot, needle and slide)? Denis
  3. I have a couple of bash plates that have been "flattened" from... well... bashing on things! One is the stock Gas Gas the other one is a CSP brand. I would like to bend them back to their original shape (or as close as I can) with my hydraulic press. I was wondering if anyone has any experience doing this and if anyone had the smart of making a cardboard cutout of the original (unmolested) profile of the bash plate... Thank in advance for the help. DC
  4. Hi: I scored a pair Keihin PKW 28 from a motocross racer for cheap and I am going to use one to do a conversion on the Fantic 300 I am building up. Since I'll have a spare one, I was wondering if it's worth doing the conversion on my 2013 250 TXT Pro too? What are the pro's and con's and what other parts do I need? Thanks. DC
  5. Left over from my parts bin, see photos. PayPal me postage (+ PayPal fees) and I'll post it). Should have mentioned first... I am located in sunny California, so shipment to Europe might not be worth it...
  6. I didn't know that. Do you have a part number for that?
  7. Final pipe? I have a 2013 TXT Pro 250 and the mid pipe is aluminum with a plastic end cap and an aluminum insert at the end of the plastic end cap. Then inside there is packing and an steel perforated tube going between the Al insert in teh end cap and the bottom of the mid pipe. What's different on later models?
  8. I am in California and here it's so hot and dry that we are not even allowed to joke about this type of things....
  9. Smashed my exhaust muffler on my 2013 TXT today (well, that was the last stroke of a long abusing relationship I am having with it ) so I am going to get a replacement. I have a couple of questions: Are the aluminum muffler ends (to replace the plastic ones) worth it? My concern is that to some extent the plastic one smashes on a big it and protects the mid pipe from damages. So it's a $50 sacrificial part vs. $500 one! The mid box can be refurbished, but that's a lot of work (cut, clean, repack, reweld) and too much downtime. But... is it (refurbishing or getting a new one) worth it? What's the impact on performance. My bike is getting sluggish off the bottom, could be a lot of things tho (carb, rings, piston, pipe, etc...). As always, thanks in advance for the help. Cheers.
  10. Hi Rick: Good choice. I think that by the time you paid for shipping and the time you'll sink getting it legal you'll come ahead by buying a local bike. Some other things to consider when "importing" a bike: DMV will make you get a VIN inspection from the CHP (just that process takes at least one month in the Bay Area to get an appointment with the CHP). If you import a bike (or just an engine), customs will ask you to get it approved by the EPA... And that's another untold number of hours that you will sink in chasing the EPA, the customs, etc... etc... If you import the bike as a bunch of separate parts, DMV will still ask you for either a MSO (Manufacturer Statement of Origin) or bill of sales for all the parts you bought to assemble the bike. Then (if they accept the bike!) they will use as a tax basis the the total cost of the parts + your labor (at a nominal labor rate). And that won't get you a green sticker unless you have a frame older than 2002. Worth the risks and hassles? Nah! Best is to find a local bike. If your electric bike is an Electric Motion if I were you I'd stick with it. As a newbie, it i going to take quite a while for you to see the difference in performance between that and a petrol powered bike, unless you want to start riding PITS event, in which case you might need a spare battery pack. Gas bike: if you want to ride year round there are a few "newer" unicorn bikes that have slipped through the DMV and have green stickers but these are few and very far in between. Best would be to get a 2002 in good shape (Beta or GG). If you are just starting to ride, you won't make the difference. Then invest your money in some riding lessons with Adrian in Copperopolis (but wait until fall because it's gotta be too f****g hot there right now). Happy trails. DC
  11. Great! Now... trick question... which of the spokes have the LH and RH thread?
  12. Mostly curious...I was wondering if anyone know anything about the thread on the spokes and wheel nuts on a tubeless flanged wheel? I know the threads are rolled instead of cut (easier / cheaper / more robust) but thread standard metric size, imperial or some special secret type used only for spokes? Thanks.
  13. This is probably a long shot, but just in case... I am going to respray (powder coat actually) some of the original parts of my 300 and I'd like as much as possible to match the original Fantic color. I was wondering if anyone has a reference (pantone for example) for the original color? Also, I am looking for vector graphics of the logos, especially this one: Thanks in advance for any help.
  14. In my neck of the wood (San Francisco Bay Area), it's either AHRMA or local club rules (which is the Sacratmento PITS and it's basically "dual sock", race what you bring as long as it's dual sock!). So I got myself a cheap 1984 Fantic 300 that I am starting to strip out and will do a "restomod" on
  15. I ended up using a Kydex sheet which is pretty tough and thermoformable and available online or locally in the US at any TapPlastic (altho these guys think it's ABS!). I use 1/4" (6mm). The sheet I got came out of the remnant bin and cost $1 but was on the narrow side so I didn't get all the coverage I wanted (width wise). Here is what it looks like: I ended using the same material in 1/8" for doing frame rail protectors: These are held with thin strips of Scotch Extreme Mounting Tape (that stuff is so good that it might peel off the powder coating when I try to pry them off!).