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About drca

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  1. I am thinking about getting into some "classic" or "vintage" trials events next year, and since I need a new build project, I thought it might be nice to build a decent vintage trials bike. Mind you, my level is novice at best (been riding trials for a year, I can balance, do lock to lock turns, clean 1' to 1.5' obstacles). I looked for the AHRMA rule books for trials and the classes listed on their web site are: 13.1.1 PREMIER HEAVYWEIGHT: Certain pre-1965 era and like design, non-unit construction (separate, removable gearbox), four-stroke machines, 350cc and larger. Examples: BSA B32, Ariel HT., Triumph Trophy, Royal Enfield Bullet, etc., or accurate replicas of such machines. Modifications and major components are limited to the era and must be typical of the heavyweight machines of the 1960s. The following requirements apply to Triumph unit twin works replicas: Any unit Triumph twin engine may be used; the standard pre-1966 twin frame and rear hub must be employed; only the rear frame section may be modified to period specifications; must use any year all-steel Triumph forks, standard length; must use any year all-steel Triumph oil tank; must use any Triumph steel or iron front hub; and may use any period gas tank, seat, rims, etc. 13.1.2 PREMIER LIGHTWEIGHT: Certain pre-1965 era and like design, unit- or non-unit construction, two- or four-stroke machines, 250cc and smaller. Also, unit-construction, four-stroke machines over 300cc. Examples: Greeves, Dot, Cotton (Villiers-powered), unit-construction BSA singles or twins, Royal Enfield Crusader, Triumph Cub, Triumph 500 unit twin or Triumph-powered Greeves. Hondas are limited to CB160, CL72 and CL77. Modifications and major components are limited to those of the era, typical of machines in the 1960s. 13.1.3 RIGID LIGHTWEIGHT: Any non-swing-arm machine, including those equipped with plunger or sprung-hub rear suspension, typical of those used in the pre-swingarm era. Engine displacement up to 300cc, as manufactured, two- and four-strokes. Modifications and major components are limited to those typically used into the 1950s. Ceriani-type forks are not allowed. 13.1.4 RIGID HEAVYWEIGHT: Chassis and modifications as above, utilizing 301cc and larger non-unit-construction four-stroke engines. 13.1.5 GIRDER FORK: Any rigid-frame, girder-fork machine. Modifications and major components are limited to those of the era, typical of pre-war machines. Plunger frames and sprung hubs are not permitted. 13.1.6 MODERN CLASSIC: Any unit-construction machine up to and including model year 1979. Examples: Bultaco five-speed 125-350, Suzuki RL250 & TS models, Beamish Suzuki, Montesa Cota 123-348, Ossa 250-350 MAR and BLT, Yamaha TY175/250 & AT/CT/DT models, Kawasaki KT250 & enduro models, Honda TL125/250 & SL/XL models, GRM Maverick rigid frames with four-stroke engines. TMI-framed Hondas and Frazier frames are eligible. Modifications and major components are limited to those of the era, typical of machines of the mid-’70s. SWM, Fantic or Beta motorcycles are not allowed. 13.1.7 CLASSIC: Any kit-framed two-stroke machine 175cc or less. Examples: Wassell, 88 89 Penton, Gaunt, Minarelli-powered Cotton, Puch-powered Greeves, Dalesman and Hodaka specials. Also any Spanish four-speed up to 250cc in original OEM frame. Examples: Ossa four-speed, Montesa four-speed, Bultaco four-speed, also GRM Maverick rigid frames with Classic-legal engines and GRM four-speed. Eligible fourstrokes include those legal for Premier Lightweight and Honda S90 and SL90. 13.1.8 BEGINNER: A non-championship class for beginning trials riders on any motorcycle eligible for AHRMA trials. If these are the actual classes, it means that the "youngest" a bike can be to be eligible is 1979, which would exclude all of the mid 80's bike such as the Fantic, SWM, some TY's and even the Honda TRL200 are out. So what class (if any) are these bikes running is? What I was hoping for is a "twin shock / drum brakes / air cooled / run what you bring" type of class. Now my local club (Sacaramento PITS) has a "twin shock" class defined as "1. Twin Shock – Any model year bike with twin-shock rear suspension" in their rule book. Is that pretty standard? What I am thinking about is picking up a Honda TL200 and building it up with modern components (better fork, rear shock, hydraulic clutch, etc.). Thanks for any info on this.
  2. Fantic-03.jpg

    From the album 1984 Fantic 300

  3. Fantic-02.jpg

    From the album 1984 Fantic 300

  4. Fantic-01.jpg

    From the album 1984 Fantic 300

  5. I am going to be looking at a '84 Fantic 300 later today or this week-end. The machine is NOT running due to electrical issues (owner says no spark and needs new stator). So where can I find a stator (if this indeed is the problem), how much does it cost. But in general (since if I get that bike the idea would be to do a restoration), how hard / easy are parts to find, especially in the USA? And how much is a nicely restored bike worth. DC
  6. Here are a few tips that helped me: Look about 10 to 20 meters (30 to 60 feet) straight out, not at your front wheel. When you can balance for more than 10 seconds, start looking around, left and right. Front wheel turned almost to the stop, much much easier than with the wheel straight. And the trick is to use small movement of the wheel to keep balance. I think the reason why is that when you put some force on the bar to turn the wheel, not only it turns the front wheel, but it causes you to move your body and shift your weight. Talking about front wheel turned, ss mentioned before, everyone seems to have a "preferred" side. Start with that side. When you are comfortable and can balance on that side, work on the other side (no reason to spend time on your "unnatural" side if you can't balance on your natural side!). Move your butt from side to side to balance. This has also helped me a lot. Small movements should be sufficient to keep you on the balancing edge once you find it. Most people starting to learn balance (including me, and I still do it) give big inputs on the pegs which are hard to control and will cause to have to overcompensate with bigger input, etc... Moving just your butt from one side to the other causes you to slightly move your weight from one peg to the other in a much more controllable way. People (!) say you should use bar movement rather than shifting weight no the pegs... not easy for me! For me starting from one foot on the ground to balancing is the hardest, so I use a small stool of approximately the same height at the pegs. This way I can start with one foot on one peg and one foot on the stool and slowly shift to both feet on the bike to find the balancing point. Finally I use a small sand bag under the front wheel. That has helped me tremendously, not sure why. Hope this helps. DC
  7. Here is a slow motion video showing pretty advance (for me!) techniques but I found it very useful anyways:
  8. Glad to help and return the favor. I've gotten plenty of good help on this and other forums in the past. BTW, Jim Snell is usually a good resource for this can of stuff, altho he hasn't been active here for quite a while.
  9. Here is what I have for a 2007 gasser, should be pretty close! That's from Jim Snell's.
  10. Thanks, I'll go Nylon or Delrin. What thickness do you recommend?
  11. Thanks guys, I'll pass on the Ohlins and invest into getting classes (and riding more!).
  12. Anyone has any experience with the Jitsie Linkage Suspension protector thingy? What material are they mode out of (flexible rubber, hard nylon / delrin, ...)? Thanks.
  13. I am looking at upgrading my rear shock to a Ohlins from Splat Shop (this one) on my 2013 TXT Pro. I have been doing trials for 1 year now and I have done a couple of events and plan to do more this year (travel schedule permitting). Now... it's a bit of a cash chunk and I don't know that there is anything wrong with my current rear shock, but my experience with suspensions (from years of enduro riding) is that until you try something "better", you don't know how much better is "better" (or how bad what you currently have is) But I also know that it won't make me magically climb 3 foot ledges the day I put it on but hopefully I'll work up to that level in a few months. I've searched on this forum and there isn't much recent on the Ohlins shock so I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations on whether this is worth it and and my level what would be the benefits. Thanks. DC
  14. Yeah... I have sprockets on order... my question was really about the type of chain, but thanks for the reminder.
  15. Thanks for all the replies. So I ended up ordering a RK standard chain (I've been pretty happy with RK chains before and it was cheap < US$30 on Amazon Prime) and some good lubricants. I am in Northern California so 8 months of the year we don't know what rain is, and the rest of the time it's too wet to ride... Hoppy trails.