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john w

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About john w

  • Rank
    Too many toys, not enough time
  • Birthday

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    Beta tr34. Ty250
  • Club
    Normandy mcc

Profile Information

  • Location
    Surrey
  • Gender
    Male
  1. You could also try Allen's used trials spares, as he seems to have a lot of early beta stuff. http://www.allensusedtrialsspares.co.uk
  2. Thanks for the reply Paul. I did put up a reply myself yesterday, but it doesn't seem to be there now. ================================ Never mind, I figured it out. I did find a doc that gives good info: https://www.dropbox.com/s/fi0f035qeyzbo6m/_Marzocchi_32_35_38.pdf?dl=0 Posting the link incase it helps someone else.
  3. Hi all, As the title says, does anyone have a diagram for these forks, or a link to one please. They are on a TR34, but the same as TR32 etc too. I want to check I am assembling the inners correctly. I can post a pic of the parts if required. Cheers, John.
  4. Some pictures of the lower fork legs, before and after. They weren't heavily gouged but didn't look that great. Now they look great, very pleased with them for around an hour on the scotchbrite wheel. The last 2 pics are of the leg shown on the right in the first 2 pics, gives an idea of before and after for the same leg.
  5. Ducati anniversary red is ppg 473.101. I have a Ducati and the red is very close if not identical Imo to the beta colour. Ferrari rosso red is ral 3024. The Ducati and Ferrari colours are supposedly meant to be the same, but I don't have the ral code for the ducati red to check (their paint is supplied by ppg).
  6. On my bike all of those parts were dark blue from new, including the snails. If you take the chain rubbing block bolt out (the bolt shown above) you should see the original colour on it where it hasn't been faded by uv exposure. Same for the captive threaded bit in the fork leg. These were the areas they used for a colour match. My bike has had black renthals on it from nearly new, and the blue bar end stops shown above. The original bars were natural alloy colour. I did think about fitting standard ones but going to stick with what it's had on it for so long. Here is a pic of my seat. You can see the black coating is coming off. Silicon spray did that :-/
  7. I was told the red is the same as used by ducati, and in fact the same as ferrari Rosso red. My paint guy mixed to match the original. I bought some scotchbrite polishing wheels that are meant to give the brushed finish. We shall see. The seat is a moulded gell, and originally had a black finish to it, but this comes off and leaves it purple/blue. I can't attach any more pictures (will have to edit my posts and make them smaller so I can post more), so send me a pm with your email and I will email you a copy. Mine is very original wit regard to parts. I have replated all the original bolts with the exception of the countersunk bash plate bolts, countersunk rear loop bolts, and stand pivot bolt, which were changed as their heads were deformed. All bearings and seals have been replaced, and the fork legs replated. I had the spokes and nipples replated too. Just got the ergal bits back from being colour anodised as original. Cheers, John. Ps nice job pschrauber
  8. Thanks guys. It's great to hear there are others of you doing similar. The front pipe was clear coated, which went a biscuit colour over time. I intend to clearcoat it again, depending on how it looks after I've finished cleaning get it. I found a link earlier in the week to a review of when the replica first came out. This highlights some of he special bits, and shows the exhaust quite clearly. http://www.retrotrials.com/1987-milan-motorcycle-show-report1.html What pics of the rear brake do you want ? I have the calipers in half at present, awaiting new o rings. The parts diagrams might help you too, although they are a bit sparse in some areas. I did look at saschas build. It differs from mine in a bunch of ways, but was a good reference. Did any of you guys try to refinish the fork lowers ? Mine are brushed which I am going to try to reproduce. Cheers, John.
  9. Hi all, There don't seem to be many rebuild threads on here of air cooled stuff, so thought I would post some pics of my TR34. I have had this since it was 6 months old, and it's had a pretty easy life until I left it in a shed with a leaky roof for a couple of years and everything corroded It's been a total strip down, frame, engine, hubs, etc all repainted, and everything that was plated, replated. It's been a struggle getting some of the bits, but nearly there now. I will add more pics as it progresses. I hope you enjoy the pics. Cheers, John.
  10. My tr34 rear shock, after replating and ready for spring fitting.
  11. Thanks reggie, that's a start 😉
  12. Nobody know the answer to this ? How about later betas, do they have engine numbers, and do they match the frame number ?
  13. Hi all, I have a tr34 that I've just had the engine cases painted (whole bike is being rebuilt) I didn't really notice before, but looking at the cases now there is no visible sign of any engine number despite the log book saying it's the same as the frame number. I have a tr32 too, so checked that engine and can't find any number on it either. Did these bikes not have any engine numbers, or were they stamped so lightly they disappear with a repaint ? If they are numbered, where abouts ? And if they were numbered did they always match the frame numbers ? Cheers, John.
  14. Thanks for the reply. I removed the dust cover but couldn't compress the cap to get the circlip out. I took it to a local suspension specialist who said it's not intended to be rebuildable, and he said adding a valve to the body is not usually very successful. I'm therefore just having the outside replated with all the shaft etc still in place. I will post some pics when I get it back next week. Cheers, John. P.'s. I am rebuilding a tr32 too, which is essentially the same as your tr33 but no front disc brake.
  15. Thanks for the info. I've sent you an email. Cheers, John.