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About oldaz

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  • Bike
    Montesa Cota 247 VUK

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  • Location
    Lethbridge, Australia
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  1. Picture of new bash plate below - I built it as I said above - looks pretty with the diamond pattern on top and is nice and smooth on the underneath "contact" surface. Got it shaped up pretty close, then fitted it and "massaged" it to be a neat fit to the bottom rails - may have to massage the edges a little more when the engine goes back in, but happy enough with it as it is for now.
  2. Bash plate made and fitted, (picture below) details are in a separate post, it came out OK, so that's the end of the "frame" work. In process of stripping engine further. The barrel and head are back from hydro-blasting, a bit more tidying up and finish the new head studs and it will be ready for some engine enamel. New flywheel puller arrived, so started into pulling the magneto flywheel - no joy for 2 days - soaked in penetrant, applied heat, still no go. Got more serious with it today, more heat while under pressure to the point where I've probably compromised the crank seal on this side, tried impact gun, still no go, breaker bar on the puller and promptly sheered off the M12 bolt in the new puller - more heat and more penetrant while I repaired the puller with a new hi-tensile M12 set screw, got back into it and lay the engine on it's side on the steel bench so it was supported on the crank weight on the clutch side - a good belt with the 4 pounder and it popped - FINALLY!!! Shut down the workshop and quit for the day.
  3. The sliders are easy enough to machine if you have access to a reasonable lathe - the outside where the gaiters go is concentric with the bore, so easy to set up - then press in a suitable piece of brass tubing and ream/machine to size. Any competent machine shop should be able to do it.
  4. Guess they learned from all the leaking clutch housings and drowned magnetos. Are the frames on the wall future projects, or spare parts??
  5. After all the feedback and pictures I've started making the new bash plate. Looking at the trashed side cases on my bike and the Renthal one, I understand why they designed it like that, simply to protect the leading edges of the magneto and clutch cases without compromising ground clearance - they obviously weren't concerned about damage to the lower frame tubes. I can also understand that as these bikes were built to do a task and longevity wasn't in the original plans. I decided to go similar to the bottom picture keychange posted, except I'm making the back edge a bit longer to go under the rear cross-member. I had some 4mm diamond plate aluminium left from a previous job, so using a piece of that, the diamond pattern will be topside as I didn't want anything underneath that could snag on a log or rock and it won't make any difference on the topside. Still have to figure how I'll attach it and will post a picture when it's fitted to the frame.
  6. On 247's you often find the inside of the casing damaged from the kick-starter over travel allowing water to get in, might be worth having a look.
  7. It would be a pretty looking bike like that, all sparkling with a dash of red, you would be tempted to spend a lot of time cleaning/polishing though. Thanks for comment :-)
  8. Bottom scarring on mine is as bad or worse, so while the engine is out I will form up the 5mm aluminium plate that's going underneath - I figure a loss of 5mm ground clearance isn't going to affect much for me. I've already panel beaten the bottom as good as I can get it even though there's still some bends and scarps that aren't supposed to be there. I wasn't aware of any of these frames being "nickled" from the factory.
  9. That's certainly possible, although I'm not sure why you would go to that much trouble on what many regard as a "weak" frame. Removing the bottom rails wouldn't do much to stop the head piece cracking so many of these end up with. I noticed some of the later bikes use a similar system, but the plate is mounted a lot more securely - don't know if they suffer the same frame cracking.
  10. We used Triumph forks like those in rigid Velo's in the '60's, just changed the oil to suit rider weight. The higher viscosity oil made for a firmer shock for heavier riders, hardest thing was getting the valving right for the lightweight folk.
  11. Thanks Brewtus, but the 247C obviously uses a different lower frame. The bash plate in your pictures takes the place of the lower frame rails in the earlier frames. Those lower rails and plate on my frame are badly scored from rock damage, so I'll fit a similar shaped plate under the frame rails. Fourex says the saddle type clamps are a pain, but at the moment I don't envisage taking the plate off very often - if it turns out the plate has to come off regularly I'll no doubt do something to make it easy. Thanks for all the input on this, now I know which way to go.
  12. Thanks for the pictures Keychange, there's enough detail to allow me to make one. It will go under the frame like the one in the last picture.
  13. Hi Fourex, I don't think you need to go so far as to weld bits in. My plan is to cut to size, then bend up the aluminium plate similar to what's in Keychange's last picture, except to make it a little longer so it goes to the cross-member at the rear of the existing perforated piece. I'll use 2 half clamps over the cross-member at the back and one each side at the front held by countersunk hex screws (sketch below) - simple but effective. Thanks for posting the article - I already made the aluminium chain guard, didn't think I would need an extra rim lock (unless I get way more serious), Aluminium bash plate in progress and steering lock puts the inside fork tube at right angles to the head stock on full lock - if that makes sense.
  14. The manual doesn't show a bash plate for the 247, so wondering if anyone ever made one for the Cota 247 and if so, any pictures?
  15. Wheels all rebuilt, new tyres, tubes, bands, rim-locks, brake shoes modified and fitted, made new spacer to replace the knackered speedo drive and fitted the wheels to frame, the fitted up the brake levers, etc - all fixings are stainless steel, even inside the plates. I'm very pleased with the way it's coming together.