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section swept

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About section swept

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    New Member

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  • Bike
    M80 Bultaco 250 T

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  • Location
    Robin Hood Country
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  1. Fantic 300 (249cc) ignition

    Just as importantly you need to find out what caused the damage. You might just be able save the stator with some deft wiring and solder gun action, you might not, worth a try.
  2. Brake fluid level

    Rubber insert is a diaphragm which allows fluid to move. There is no atmospheric breather hole, if there was you would get fluid leaking out of it, due to the nature of two wheeled bikes. It’s the same for the front brake fluid reservoir. This is how it is on all hydraulic brake systems for bikes. The sight glass is there to show you have fluid in the reservoir, it’s not a level and when you put the rubber diaphragm back it will displace some fluid.
  3. What brake pads

    Everyone will have a preference, but not always suited to your own tastes. OE fitment would be the best starting point, but some riders just fit what’s easiest to get hold of or the best value etc. Maybe mrturtles suggestion of Galfer will get you sorted, not sure but this manufacturer may be the supplier to Beta under that name. Give everything a good clean while your in the brakes.
  4. Txt 280cc 2010 - Starting Issue

    Weak spark outside of engine means no spark in the increased atmosphere of compression. You should get a big fat ⚡️ outside of engine. As others have done, try someone else’s CDI unit. Do a google search you may well find a cheaper alternative.
  5. 4t Carb - Vacuum Chamber plug and jetting

    Block off the vacuum thingy and run the engine, see how it behaves.
  6. 4t Carb - Vacuum Chamber plug and jetting

    Flame out, when you left the barbecue well alight, well you thought it was and when you came back to throw the meat on it was out! When one jet fighter flies too close to the other and catches the jet wash ( serious lack of oxygen already burned by othe jet) and the effect is ‘flame out’ too low and boom you crash, too high and it’s a hell ride to earth unless you are a very good pilot.
  7. 07 pro strange gear selection problem

    As they say you’ll have to get in there and investigate. Seems to me there’s some frailty in the original design, the less modern stuff appears to be made of tougher materials.
  8. X Ring Chain on 4t?

    As cascadeimp1 suggests, X and O rings great on road bikes, but for trials they 1 add weight 2 create added powered sapping friction 3. May rub and chafe on other areas of the bike 4 increased weight increases likely chain slap etc 5 you cannot get lube in between the X and O ring seals, least ways not until the seals have worn a bit this also means the seals can trap silt, dirt and grit...not good. For the price of a good quality X or O ring chain you could probably buy two plain chains. At least with plain standard chain you can clean the chain more thoroughly, lube it with what ever is your fancy, 3 in 1 light oil is good it will penetrate right into the folders etc. Yes it will sling off but not if you oil the chain the night before. WD40 is good as it drives out moisture and with both lubes there’s less tendency to hold onto the dirt and act as a grinding paste. Both will wash off easily after each event/ dirty practice etc. Chain lube is good for the road bikes but it’s sticky and attracts the dirt and dust..not good. Some of us work on the fact that the chain and sprockets are wearing as soon as we ride so they’ll need replacing, so just wash the chain then spray with WD40 and then wipe any residue off. If you are going to go for long trail type rides or use your bike on road for longer than between sections then chain lube should be used. Silicon spray would perhaps be my number one choice, you can get small pocket sized cans and it has its uses for lubing in event other parts of the bike, helps keep water out of boot seams too! 🙂👍
  9. Clutch slip

    Dump the Motul Transoil and use Putoline GP10 as per Mr. Lamkins suggestion. Maybe also a second look at the clutch to ensure all is well rebuild wise🙂
  10. Clutch Drain on ‘73 Sherpa - Help

    If you like you could leave well alone drain plug wise and remove the clutch adjusting access plate (plastic) and lay the bike on its right side and the oil will come out from there pretty quickly. Turning the bars will allow more lean. Are you draining gearbox?
  11. 07 pro strange gear selection problem

    Loose clutch basket would give you the effect you describe, also a slack feeling in both acceleration and slowing in gear. There are situations where the clutch centre bolt has been over tightened at the factory in production. Hope you get to the bottom of your issue.
  12. Shifting issues

    Poor production quality control and initial worker training, over torquing inexcusable.
  13. Transit Rear Chassis Rusted

    ‘‘Tis the way you drive them that decides how long they last” Oh and service them. Vannies always insist on overloading the poor things, then with the suspension on the bump stops (if they haven’t already been destroyed) the driver then insists on driving at break neck speed everywhere and as close as possible to the vehicle in front of them accelerating and decelerating loading up the transmission. It’s no wonder most vans clutches and gearboxes wear so quickly.
  14. Bike pick-up - strapping it in?

    Do you use a bike cover to stop inquisitive pond life thieving scum bags from following you and nicking the bike, they probably wouldn’t be bothered if it was a Trials bike, or any other bike come to that 😟 Nice, generous offer.
  15. Can't get to bleed my rear brakes

    Working on US cars can be challenging too but more of a pleasure as they don’t appear so often....