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Nebulous

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About Nebulous

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  • Bike
    2009 4RT Repsol Ltd

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  • Location
    Norfolk , UK
  1. Help needed with 2009 4RT

    Thankyou very much OzThumper. At last. This is why I mentioned the small timing-cover inspection plate. Since I would need to remove that to set TDC in order to check valve-clearances. I think this is what’s required. Obviously when clearances are less than spec - it gives the ECU a hard time. This would explain why the bike can return straight to 1,800rpm from high-revving - since the fuelling is momentarily shut-off. Guess I should take off that timing cover and drill that inspection-plate out. No reason to go buying soft-map throttle-bodies at this stage then?
  2. Help needed with 2009 4RT

    Any bike where the revs die away , then come back fierce - is going to throw you off. I’m putting all responsibility for this on the bike. Except for the bit where I continued to ride it , knowing there is a slight problem. The bike has a fault. A throttle is a throttle. It just needs to work well , and be connected to an engine with tight electrical connections and proper tuning. I’m not mentally-challenged. I didn’t have a muscular spasm , or took the bike for granted in any way. I just took your advice from another thread - and paid mid-range money for the bike I liked the best. Quite simple , not rocket-science - unless of course, you were adapting the 4RT to run the water-regeneration system on a rocket. Then it would be.
  3. Efi

    Well , I wouldn’t crawl over this - to get to you mate.
  4. Efi

    Throttle response. Something that , at the moment - I have too much of!
  5. Help needed with 2009 4RT

    Excellent reply , thanks Barfy. Do you think I could throw that soft-tune throttle body at it - without having to re-time the ignition. That inspection cover I’d rather leave for another day.
  6. Help needed with 2009 4RT

    Get a low IQ forum to learn on.
  7. Help needed with 2009 4RT

    Thanks for your considered replies , and thanks for all not quoting my long post - like some like to do. If some don’t want to wade through it - then there’s always the “doug’s book” thread. Obvious my problem is a multi-faceted one. Just don’t know what angle to approach it from. But to strip that top-end and clean everything - is surely normal procedure for an unknown new bike. Yes , not what I wanted - but it’s had 10 years of idiots with powerwashes , up close and personal. If I can’t bond with the bike - then the trust will never be there. I’m certainly not keen on surprises of a lethal nature from powerful modes of transportation. There is a soft-map throttle-body on ebay for £150. A throttle-cable for £12.99. I already have a fantastic clutch , with dimpled plates and Elf oil. I will look at the manual to check for return-spring on the butterfly - as I said , throttle needs more resistance. Will any new throttle fit Renthal Fatbars? I have a Domino , and will buy the original Montesa part (if it fits). I don’t mind a day’s work with carb-cleaner and contact-cleaner. I think the bike warrants it. Setting-up throttle position sensors might be finicky , don’t know. All the 125 bikes are teenage throwaways , or £4,000 minimum for a 2015! A Beta evo factory 125 looks pretty , but all that thinking is ridiculous. A hoover has enough torque to strangle you , if you’re not careful with the flex. There’s beginners riding vertigos , novices on Sherco 290’s , 4rt’s everywhere with unskilled people saying “I love my smooth power”. Not to mention the pre-65 beasts that weigh 300lbs and sail up rocky stream-beds with pensioners barely holding-on. No , I want some of that. I just have a poorly-tuned bike - one designed to rip your arms off. It didn’t start life like that , and I’ve had a couple of cars where - returning them to stock tuning , made them smooth again. Maybe I can save this one too. I can’t sell it like this can I?
  8. Help needed with 2009 4RT

    Hi all. I’ve got 3 problems to sort - all of which may be connected in some way. So I’m hoping for a little friendly-advice from yourselves. Firstly , how I wish I’d bought that Triumph/Hardy 3ta from Stav in Chorley! But £18.5k was a bit steep , and it’s a big lump to crawl out from under! But in some ways , I’d rather be looking at that now - than the Spanish unknown I am concerned about. But you may well see me pre-65-ing it yet! Anyway , so I bought my 2009 4RT Repsol last week - and it arrived in good shape , looking the business. Was quite difficult to start - requiring the full throttle/two kickstarts method to clear , before then starting first kick. Cold or warm makes no difference. I put this down to poor idle-speed , and purchased a cheap tacho. The bike was set very low , and I adjusted it up to 1,800 - and it sat there quite steady , in the shade -with the fan cutting in and out. Feeling pleased with myself , I set about clearing all the gunk and tape from the underside of the mudguard. The vents had been taped over and there was much molten tiger-seal to remove. After the cleaning , I re-fitted the mudguard and the rpm stayed almost the same. Thought that was it , job done - pat on the back time. I had ridden the bike twice prior to this , and it was a bit jerky on the throttle - so I was hoping to get the smoothness from raising the idle back to spec. Riding with no clutch in second around the garden was a nightmare. It would crawl , and then lurch. Gearing is 9/43. 1st was impossible. Ok , so with my freshly set idle - I proceeded down the driveway to my patch of lawn , and began to practice turns again. This time in 2nd and using the clutch and footbrake. Tiny amounts of throttle here and there , and I thought I was in business. The turns got tighter , and it all felt ok. I decided to slow it down a bit more , and noticed that when steering to the left in 1st at idle revs - the revs were dropping , and then coming back when straightening the bars. Very odd. Pulling on the cable at the bars would also raise the revs - so I decided I at least needed some slack in the cable. The cable is routed over the bars as is the clutch pipe - and I thought this might not be ideal. But adding some slack would surely help? So first question is - am I to assume the only adjustment is at the twist-grip end of the cable? Because this is a non-locking threaded connector that has fused itself solid. Even with mole-grips and a spanner no way it budged. I didn’t want to risk deforming the metal , and then having a binding-cable. Is there a fix , or do I need a brand new throttle cable? Still doesn’t explain the lowering rpm on left-turns though. (I since set the idle using the tacho with the throttle-cable detached from the bars , in case of binding) The throttle is totally instant , and with no resistance (lethal in fact!). I rode for another 5 mins , and at one point after an alarming drop in revs - the bike lurched yet again , and this time it caught me out. My fingers came off the front brake and my hand twisted the throttle as I was thrown back! I landed on my head and neck with my legs flailing in the air. The lanyard thankfully worked and disengaged , and the bike fell on it’s side. But the remaining two revolutions were enough , as my left leg came down onto the still-spinning rear-wheel - to drag my upper-thigh , and wedge it firmly and fully into the 3” gap between the exhaust and the tyre. Adrenelin countered the pain at that point - but I was in shock. My right leg under the bike. I was stuck fast , with a hot exhaust burning it’s way through to my vitals. The pants were completely ripped off on the leg , and I could smell burning - as I glanced at my newly bought chinese-made one-way tank-valve , that was steadily dripping Shell 98-octane over the lawn! I thought that this might be something of an emergency situation , since I live alone - and wouldn’t see anyone until the postman the next morning. I managed to bend-double and , holding the bars with my right hand - grapped the gear-lever and carefully snicked it into neutral. It was then still another full minute before I could get my leg free. Wow! That was a new pair of pants too! Thinking to myself that the 2017 Vertigo Camo might have been a better bet - I did get back on and rode the bike up the drive to my house (This time with a death-grip on that throttle as my ripped-pants flapped in the wind). Vowing never to get on the bike again until this is sorted , and also having second-thoughts about the huge weight and power of the 4RT for an in-experienced rider - I set about connecting up the tacho for another look. Now , my re-positioning the throttle cable means there is now no raising of rpm when pulling on it , but there is no slack at all - and the revs die slightly on left turns when moving. Turning the bars to the left when stationary - they stay the same? When the bike is warmed-up , the fan stays on constantly - and the replaced old stock tank-vent bubbles merrily. Hooking up the tacho , it was now reading 1640 , then 1,700rpm. (In the evening the previous night , the fan was healthily in and out. Denser air?). All fluids are ok , radiator level is full. Mudguard is clear of obstructions. With mudguard removed , pressing on the top of the throttle-body lowers the revs!? Replacing the mudguard now lowers the revs yet again. So I’m thinking the bike is maybe over-heating? The fuel boiling? I’m certainly beginning to think that a full examination of the electrical connections is necessary - with some contact-cleaner and dielectric-grease afterward. But the symptoms are very odd. Could this also be an O2 sensor fault? Or what I first thought was that valve-clearance and/or timing was out - causing temp-spikes? Really don’t know , so need help - if anyone can de-cipher my ramblings. Aside from the fused throttle-cable adjuster - it appears that whoever owned this bike prior to me , was rather hefty in their application of torque when using hand-tools. Guess you learn that on a farm , but it doesn’t help me. Someone fitted one of those little “aircraft aluminium” timing inspection-window covers - and put enough grip on it to hold a propellor to the QE2! It’s going nowhere. Any attempt to remove would strip the allen form. I tried a star key etc. But not an impact driver , in the event I might crack the case. Is there any way I can get this out - and will I really need to , to sort my problems? I was hoping that some simple TLC would be enough to have the bike suitable for me to ride with confidence. But that doesn’t seem the case. On start-up , the revs are around 1,900/1,960 and come down to 1,800 when warm. Is that normal? When the fan is on , the revs dip very slightly , but then there is fluctuation on the tacho of perhaps 100rpm either way - not what I would expect of a fuel-injected system? Because the fan doesn’t cut-out - I have no way of knowing if the bike returns back to a stable 1,800. It’s certainly trying to. Heavy throttle blips , see those rpm come straight back down to 1,800 - and the fluctuation is then very minor. Almost like the blips are clearing the system - once again , something I didn’t expect from fuel-injection. Now , would I be wise to strip the engine and loom , and then rebuild the lot? Trusting that all is ok. (Some of the radiator vanes need straightening as well). Or is this related to something different? Would a new throttle-cable be sensible anyway? It feels free enough , but can’t adjust to introduce slack. Oh yes , I wondered if there was any way to up the return-spring rate on the butterfly , to give me some resistance - or has another spring become detached perhaps? Throttle feels too light for comfort - my leg still hurts like hell , and my back is reserving judgement! I feel that if there was stability in the idle rpm , and some throttle-resistance - that the bike would be easier to control. I would also like to perhaps retard the timing a little , in order to “tame” the power. It certainly does bark for a 4-stroke , and I’m wondering if it’s a little over-tuned. I don’t want to put the bike into the shop for diagnostics - as that would be so expensive. I feel that an experienced rider would just get on it and ride. They might well say that I just need a throttle-cable , and to actually use it now and again- getting some airflow into the bike. Maybe the bike has been this way for some time , and simply been a 4th-gear west-country mud-plugger for years? And here’s me trying to do finicky “turn on a sixpence” stuff at idle revs. Oh well , really long-winded I know. But the basic questions are 1- new throttle cable? 2- How to remove that inspection cover? 3- Should I really begin to delve deeper into the engine’s workings , tuning - and peripherals , like O2 sensor and bank-sensor, connectors and throttle-body. And I’d like to feel a stronger resistance twisting that throttle? I’m not in the best of health , in fact just 3 hours after my “accident” -I had to drive to hospital anyway for a pre-arranged CT scan of my lungs - the results of which will take a couple of weeks. So fingers crossed for that one. I did change my pants before the visit though! But I feel I could manage a stripdown of the top-end if needs be. I believe it’s a stock head on it - but with it all being quite tight in there , perhaps these bikes need to move to achieve adequate cooling? Haven’t looked at the water-pump impeller either. In my many searches on the forums before and after purchase - I just haven’t found anyone else with these sorts of problems - so have to hold my hands up and shout for help. Many thanks if you read some of this. I really believed in the bike two nights ago , and thought I’d done the right thing - and bought something a beginner could enjoy. Judging by the British indoor novice training videos - there’s plenty of un-skilled riders knocking about on similar machines , but perhaps with programmable throttle-bodies maybe? The reality is that , with a big jump on those footpegs and a big dose of right-hand - this thing could put me on the roof of my house , or at least the guttering! I was being so careful too. Surely the bike could be better than it has been? Ps. I’ve got a 2004 Big-wheel Beta Rev80 on ebay 15 miles away saved in my favourites - just in case! At 5ft7” and 60Kg - maybe better ‘eh?!!!! Or , even worse - Do I buy the Vertigo Camo I first looked at , admit defeat - and put a flywheel weight on it and run it on map 3? Lol
  9. Show Us Your Montesa!

    2009 Ltd.
  10. 4RT mudguard grills

    Morrisons have double-sided “No more Nails” tape. Extremely effective and non-messy, when using cut-down 1/4” strips - and leaving the backing plastic intact , making it single-sided. Half-on , half-off. Cut your mesh to only just overlap the holes by 4mm or so - and clean all surfaces thoroughly before applying the tape. I used white-spirit and a kitchen squeegy-pad , then wiped with toilet paper and left the mudguard in the sun to warm up before taping.
  11. S.E. Newbie

    Waited for the postman today , before getting on the bike again. Well , that one did the trick. Bit of retail-therapy never hurts. Started the bike up and waited for the fan , whilst getting my breath back! First impressions at 1,800rpm idle were great. Cool - the bike saunters on in second , and creeps in first - with no clutch. Tiny amounts of throttle are much easier to apply , and the bars-adjustment of yesterday has improved my position a lot. I did 5 mins and came back up the drive. Decided to raise the gear-lever to where it is now - and it is really comfy to operate compared to the stock lever. I was actually able to change from second to first , and back to second - whilst creeping along. Was very chuffed! My only gripe is that the throttle-return spring rate is so light. It goes back to zero , but I reckon a beginner could do with a lot more resistance on the throttle. I wonder if an adjustment can be made - either on the throttle itself , or on the throttle-body maybe? Certainly was easy to blip when changing hand position , and caught me out a few times. Even at this early stage , I am in agreement that the ideal gearing for the 4rt should originate from a 10 front-sprocket. For the beginner seeking smoothness , and finally mastering subtlety of throttle and clutch - the 9 sprocket fights against all that nuance , and wants to have it’s own grabby little thing going on. A 44 rear-sprocket would be perfect. 9/43 is a little too slow and stall-friendly in first , and second-gear lacks pace too , but too fast for tight stuff. I think 10/44 would actually flatter the beginner , and aid the quick learning of clutch usage (With the dimpled plates and correct oil naturally). Was happy and together enough to go on the bike a second time , and did 30 mins of riding in total. Most of it doing turns as tight as I could - trying to steer with the pegs , and keep the shoulders square with the bars. All of it was in second gear. What a difference from the bike of yesterday. Really pleased , and thinking that I bought the right bike for me. Properly set up and tuned - I can believe in it , with no reservations - and that counts for a lot , as I do my best to slowly learn.
  12. Newbie Bike question

    ???
  13. Newbie Bike question

    Hi Dougrad. I’m also very new to trials , and in the last month , read everything I could - to the point of mental exhaustion. Then , when I was at my lowest ebb- I read articles on mental-exhaustion as well!! After a minor-stroke and heart-arrhythmia , the paramedics were called - and they rushed me into A&E. Then I was put into an acute-ward and hooked-up to all sorts of machines and drips. Quite heavy medication was pumped into me , and I was told that I would be given some information in the morning. Sure enough , at 9.30am , two or three senior practitioners drew back the curtain and stood by my bed with very serious faces. They then told me that the doctors and consultants at the hospital have all agreed that , for the newcomer to trials with $2,300 to spend - that I would be advised to look for a later machine. The Beta Rev3 and Montesa 315R being the most popular beginner’s choice. They also advised that , whilst the resourceful would-be purchaser can learn lots quite quickly and possibly make an informed choice from adverts and sensible research - it would be better to see the bike in the flesh , hear it running , know it’s history if possible , and checking documentation and frame numbers etc - before taking an actual test-ride on the machine to check basic operation etc. With my inexperience , I was told that it would be a good idea to join a forum and possibly a trials club near to me. I could go along to their trials and talk to others about my introduction to the sport. It would be almost essential , when buying a bike - to take along someone who knows exactly what to look for - someone experienced enough to put the bike through it’s paces , and make an informed judgement. They then told me that if I ever phoned paramedics for constipation again - they would see to it that I would be put on a diet of figs and prunes for a month! ............................................................................. If you can stretch to a 2004 Rev3 or 315r - you’ll find that a lot of the bugs were ironed-out by that time , and your budget is actually more than enough for such a machine. It’s possible that the seller of your 314 is ascribing some sort of “vintage” value to it , which I would personally avoid. $2,000 should easily get mint examples of the other two machines , and they are 10 years in the future from the 314 - I don’t know for sure , but probably quite a difference in feel on the more modern-bike. If you are spanner-friendly , then there are other possibilities. But for your size and weight , I’d say a 250cc for certain. I don’t see why a Gas Gas 2007 250 shouldn’t be within your scope , or even a Beta Evo , at $2,300. People will talk of Shercos and Scorpas as well - both good solid bikes , and very learner-friendly - and once again , your budget takes you into the ball-park of a machine just over ten years old. My own choice of bike fell to what I liked the look of - and to it’s suitability for a beginner. I was fired-up about the sport , and watched many videos of the talented super-stars on their amazing machines. I felt that I didn’t want to come down from that , and then consider my own machine as something dull and uninspiring. But I didn’t want to buy something that would hinder my progress , and be virtually impossible to ride as a learner. It was a difficult decision , even with my unlimited budget. I finally capped my spending at $3,000 , and that got me the bike I now have. This was a 2009 Montesa Cota 4RT 250. After just 2 days of ownership , setting the idle , and maybe 40 minutes of riding total - I now know I did the right thing. Learning will be slow , and there’s lots of tinkering to do - but on my second ride , after adjusting handlebars and stuff - I began to gain confidence doing tight-turns and riding up and down my track to the house. Step by step learning , and discipline - combined with 100% attention. What is nice , is that the bike lives in my living-room - and in my favourites I have a video of Tony Bou literally flying one of these 2009 machines over rocks 10ft tall , and it looks identical to mine. Everything I’d read about the bike’s power and weight and balance - now simply doesn’t matter , as I have quickly bonded with it - and will persevere in steadily learning all the techniques I can , at my own pace and level. I hope that is some help to you Dougrad , and that you can appreciate my take on it. PS. Don’t forget that fibre in your diet is very important - it’s all about reducing weight in trials , and a couple of bowls of All Bran a day can save a few pounds for sure.
  14. S.E. Newbie

    Thanks not ron - I saved the website of ACU and would certainly appreciate coming and having a look. Perhaps even offer to observe if needed. Attleborough isn’t far from me. I’ve been lucky with my purchase. I’ve never worked on a bike and always wanted to learn. With this one , it seems that under the glossy exterior - there is a 10 year-old machine that could do with a bit of TLC. My old toolkit had to be left behind in a move - so I’m starting from scratch. My days of car maintainance are probably over - so it’s great to have something else to tinker with. Aformentioned extras , and some I didn’t know about were - Fatbars , S3 Hardrocks , Apico AJP shorty levers , Kill Switch , Engine Case-Saver , DAB rear brake-pedal , Talon 43 Sprocket (with the 9!) , couple of carbon bits - New Michelin front and IRC rear. Don’t know what the new pads are front and rear , and the carbon lower-fork protectors with new decals were also a nice surprise. Supposedly had suspension-bearings - but it’s mostly dry as a bone down there. I’ve been cleaning-out the airbox , removing sealant , gunk and tape from inside the mudguard - and setting the idle today. That went very well, and this evening - started first kick and settled very well. The fan which had been on constantly is now switching in and out nicely - with no change in rpm. Since I’m picking up tools as needed , my next purchase is a plug-spanner and a new platinum (won’t hurt) - and probably some ring-spanners too. Will get a lift-stand and have that rear-wheel removed soonish - and look towards re-greasing everything in sight. The IRC is the wrong way round , so will need re-fitting. At least that has spurred me to get the wheel off , and investigate the suspension before I put some hours in. One pain is the inspection plug for the timing cover. It’s a flimsy ally Apico red one that has been tightened beyond belief ( If it’s reverse thread then now would be a good time to tell me!) . I can’t shift it at all , and a standard allen key would just strip it. I’m wondering if an impact driver might help? Otherwise , that will be a nuisance to drill-out - or worse still , a s/h replacement cover. I would have liked to have set valve-clearances and possibly have a crack at retarding the base-timing slightly. I was told an S3 header-pipe helps smooth-out pickup , but that’s an expensive way to do it. I didn’t get a chance to ride today , as to be honest - I am struggling with my health. 40 years of smoking and a rock and roll lifestyle has now put me in a bad way. I will be happier when I’ve had the CT-scan and Heart-echo this saturday - results of that in 3 weeks time. Too many hospital visits recently , they asked if I’d made a will ffs! Anyway , the bike was to help me take my mind off myself , and to get me out in the fresh-air. It’s certainly done that , but I don’t have the stamina for more than a couple of minutes on the pegs. The jerky response of the bike didn’t help at all , but I’m hoping that 1,800rpm will make the onset of that throttle a bit less of a shock - compared to the 1,440 I think it was set to. New throttle and bearing on the way. The bike has the new dimpled clutch-plates - so there’s a nice feel there , but I’m finding gear-selection troublesome (and painful). Think it’s technique more than a mechanical problem , but I do lack the experience. Perhaps joining a club might introduce me to someone that would be willing to come over and test the bike for me. I bought a new Apico black gear-lever anyway (with orange tip!). Figured that if I’m going to hurt my foot on it every time - then it might as well look nice! Will probably glue an extra layer of leather on that part of my boot , if it continues to be awkward. Have some play-cones (5) arriving from Ebay , and a decent square of grass with a 6” step in the middle , to play on - maybe 50ft by 40ft. I think the cones will give me something to focus on , and stop me worrying about how slippery that grass is! I just hope I read the advert correctly and that they really are 12”. 12cm might be a little difficult to take seriously! Really starting with the basics , and watching basics videos on Youtube. That first ride on the bike yesterday was educational to say the least - and on a trials-bike you definitely have to earn your confidence , if you want to stay upright. Any bluster - I can can imagine would soon be met with a faceful of grass! So I’m watching other’s first-time lessons and group training sessions for novices. Trying to observe their balance and predict what the bike will do under them. I did adjust the bars back a bit tonight , and put the levers more inboard - but I think I’ll cut a half inch off them each side. Helped to get my weight back over the airbox , rather than the tank - but at full lock , the width of the bars feels a bit extreme. Hopefully , I can have a spell on the bike tomorrow - and decide whether to put a hacksaw on my shopping-list , or not. S’pose this has the makings of a blog. Wasn’t my intention , but hell - I was lonely!
  15. 2014 4RT poor rear brake

    Galfers on Ebay right now. £18.99 including a complementary bottle of SSDT special-edition Highland Spring!
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