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LaVern

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  1. Thanks for the reply. I too will have to wait on it. I have another project, a 1977 Yamaha TY250 I am restoring for my son, so I want to get a little further along on that, before I open another project. Mine has never been opened up so I am thinking I may need more than just a top end and new crank seals. That's what has me concerned. The closest I've come to splitting cases was back in 1970 when a '66 Husqvarna 360 I owned needed split and the guy I bought it from did it while I watched. My 72 year old memory recalls a bunch of spacers and bearings and gears. Whew, kind of scary at this point in my life. I gotta do a bit of research first. I will post on here anything regarding this when I get going on it. Take care. LaVern
  2. djr, That does make sense. I too remember hearing the RL250 was based on the TS250, and when I looked up the parts diagram I believe there is one seal inside and the other on the outside. So it looks like there is a good chance that a case splitting is in order. Thanks for the input. Lavern
  3. Diagnosis, I guess I won't know until I take the side cover off. I won't be doing that for a few weeks at the soonest. I tried to convert the parts list but apparently I was allowed only one conversion frompdf to jpg. Anyway, the parts list says pts 17 and 28 are crankshaft seals and it shows them on the outside. I did not have this information when I first posted the question. I do see that the picture you posted seems to show at least one of them on the inside and one on the outside. Is that what you see? LaVern
  4. I don't know if they changed the RL250 engine that much when Beamish built them. LaVern
  5. Let's try it again. I think the whole thing is there but it too is pretty small. LaVern
  6. I just found a picture of the Beamish Suzuki crankcase, and it seems to show the seals on the outside. I will try to post it, and see what you think, if I am able to post it. It's a PDF. Must be too large a file. I'll see if Ican work around that. Thanks for the response. Looks like I'll need to convert it to another file type. LaVern
  7. djr, Thanks for the reply. I am hoping you're wrong, but if you are correct, I will have to decide whether I want to tackle that or take it somewhere else. I guess I'lljust have to pull the side cover and take a peek. LaVern
  8. Their website was last updated in 2015. Good chance they are no longer active. Goodluck. You might try this site. https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product-category/parts/twinshock/armstrong/ LaVern
  9. Hi All, I several years ago I recondition my 1975 RL250 Exacta. I didn't get into the engine as it had always started 1st or 2nd kick and seemed to run just fine. Well it is getting noticeably tired and I believe my next project after I get my son's 1977 Yamaha TY250 done will be taking a closer look at the engine. Right now it still starts fine until it gets warmed up and then it not only starts hard but there is no low end whatso ever. I am thinking I definitely need at least to do a top end, bore, new piston and rings and crank seals. That's what I did on the TY without any problems, I figure that will be the least I have to do. I am the original and sole owner, and the engine has never been opened up. My question is, can the crank shaft seals be replaced without splitting the cases like the Yamaha or do I need to split the cases? Never split cases before. I don't know if I would be getting in over my head if I had to. I do have a copy of the Suzuki Service Manual and a bunch of factory service bulletins. Thanks LaVern
  10. Several years back, 3 or 4, I reconditioned my 1975 RL250, and I used the center out of an old RL250 sprocket I had for a rear sprocket spacer and it worked just fine I thought. Where were you getting the rubbing at? I may have to go back and check that out. Thanks. LaVern
  11. Thank you for that information. I did not see any timing marks but that is just about where I marked the flywheel and case with a felt tipped marker. I picked that area because the nut on the flywheel case lined up very close to the edge of the case. I will have to take a closer look tomorrow and see if I can see the marks near there. What I did was exactly what I suggested in my previous post. I brought the piston to 3.1mm BTDC and made a mark on the case and flywheel. Thanks again. LaVern P.S. Is there a way to get emails informing me of replies to my postings? I just happened to come back to this forum and saw a reply was made 7 hours previously. LJS
  12. Hi All, I know this is a old post, but this is exactly where I am at with my son's TY250 restoration. My question is about, (" you'll need to mark the cases & flywheel at the correct firing point before strobing it".) Sodo I bring the piston to 3.1mm (.122") BTDC and somewhere on the flywheel and case put a mark where when a strobe light is used the marks will line up when timing is correct? Seems that's what is being said. Thanks. LaVern
  13. LaVern

    1975 Tl250

    I know this is an old topic but I have the same problem on my 1975 TL250. It has cracked and been welded several times with no long lasting success. I do have a XL250 lever on it now but it does not have the length or bend to clear the foot peg. To use it I have a ty-wrap around the frame so when I need to start it I fold the peg up out of the way but then have to bend down to unhook it so the peg will flop down in the correct position. That gets me by but the added length on the lever also allows for a much easier kick. My 71 year old knee protests about that. 😁. It would be nice to know if there are any other levers, maybe even from newer bikes or other brands that would work. It's been a 4 year search and I haven't found anything other than the Honda XL250 that fits. Any ideas would be appreciated. I have up loaded a picture of the original vs. the XL250 one. LaVern
  14. Hi All, I am back with another question regarding the 1977 TY250 493 I am working on. I am in the process of replacing the crank seals and, I got the left hand side out with no problems, but the right hand side, the clutch side, is giving me problems. I got the crankshaft gear removed with no problems. I have to remove the clutch basket to get to the seal retainer. And I got the clutch plates removed, but I am not sure which hand thread it is on the clutch basket nut. Looking at the few threads that are exposed it looks like a left hand thread, which makes sense since the crank shaft nut was a right hand thread and these turn in the opposite direction. I have an Dewalt 18V 1/2" impact and it will not budge it either way. I also have a pneumatic 1/2" impact but before I put that to it, I want to be sure of the thread direction, left or right hand. I have a tool to secure the inner basket, I just don't know for sure the proper direction to remove the nut. I have a Shop Service manual but I find no indication in there as to the direction. Thanks for any help and info you can give me. LaVern
  15. FYI the SKU# for this petcock is SKU: KL18-4170. When I ordered mine it was the last one they had, and after just checking the SKU on their site it shows no results. I don't know if they'll be getting any more in stock. I see that Dark Horse Motorcycle parts has it listed as a FUEL PETCOCK - YAMAHA DT100 77–83 . Maybe Partzilla or other OEM suppliers may have this. LaVern
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