coxy

Definitely take the clutch out and check the pack height, the clutch pack is suppose to be measured to size but when i bought one for my last bike when i measured it as soon i received it the pack height was exactly 10mm so had to jiggle it about abit with plates i had etc to get it to te correct size. The fact that your lever has become harder to pull will be because the clutch pack is too big and the small levers will not have as much mechanical advantage

Hi all Got a 2010 txt racing 300 with an ohlins rear shocker. Noticed it had abit of play in the suspension at the rear at weekend so took it to pieces to investigate and found the bottom bush/bearing in the shocker was knackered its the one that is the bottom end of the shock closest to the dog bones. Just wondering where a replacement can be bought from as ive seen some rose joints sold on internet but not sure if they are the same as my bush/bearing seems to a rubber peice around it but the ones been sold dont. Any help at all in sourcing a new one would be much appreciated Cheers

Ebay! I know theres alot of dodgy stuff on there but its also great for buying parts at cheap prices for example bought 10 wheel bearings for £8 and they have last longer than the gasser originals. Can source just about every part you want aswell and delivery is normally 1-3 days after ordering. Order everything for my bike from there now and have found alot of places like feetup etc all have 'ebay shops' on there.

Neil to be able to have them skimmed you need to find a engineering company that has a surface grinder as you cant hold them in a 3 jaw or 4 jaw centre lathe chuck. Ive skimmed a couple of discs now at work and aslong as your scores aint too deep they will be fine. I personally dont think the disc works as well after its been skimmed for some reason probably something to do with the heat treatment etc and they rust up quicker. Just get them to check the width of the disc after its finished as the minimum thickness is 2.4mm

Have you taken off the adjustment on the small pin at the brake pedal completely? The piston in the master cylinder needs to be as low in the cylinder as possible so the fluid can go past when using a syringe. Also try pumping the brake via the pedal and slightly crack the banjo bolt on the master cylinder you will hear a hissing noise when undoing the banjo bolt if there is any air in there. Most air gets stuck in the master cylinder rather than in the pipes etc.

Next humberside hawks trial is on 6th may at wilsons farm 10:30 start. Yeah there is either the easy route or conducted route to ride so theres something for an absolute beginner. Turn up early and have a look at a few sections (but dont ride them) see what you think you can do and then enter on that route

In my opinion i would say that a 300 would be a better bike than a 250. I had a 250 for 4 years and moved onto the 300 bike and wouldn't go back. The 250 is snappier all the time but you have to work it harder. The 300 can be snappy and very quick from pretty much stood still but can also be very smooth riding off the bottom with endless amounts of torque. The bikes only go as quick as you turn the throttle so i dont think the 300 will run away from you and you'll be suprised at how they ride.

Got a 2010 300 racing and i would definitely have another. They are awesome bikes and never had a problem with mine so far. Enjoy it!

Just had a look at the videos myself and hadnt realised that they were for the old style forks not the new marzocchi forks as i used the video to do the forks on my previous bike. Im currently searching for a video or instructions on how to do the marzocchis myself so will let you know if i find anything

If you go on youtube and search for Gas Gas fork seals theres a video on there of a Gas Gas mechanic (Jim Snell) who shows you step by step with instructions how to take out the old fork seals and put new fork seals in. Its not a hard job to do and doesn't take long so aslong as your handy with a spanner and have the fork oil you should be orite to do them yourself and save yourself some dosh

Humberside hawks have a trial on the 18th december at wilsons farm and then will be running a conducted dead easy route which will be suitable for your lad

Thanks for the replies, i think im going to try some of the apico levers as ive done abit of digging around on the net and they seem to be the closest you can get to the original levers. The levers i bought are a completely different shape to the standard ones and are more square in profile rather than rounded where your finger pulls the lever. You would of thought that you could get the exact same levers as what is standard on the bike!

Start out by trying the technique on a small hill as this will help to begin with and just try using your throttle back brake and clutch to keep the front wheel in the air whilst moving up the hill and keep stopping. Once youve mastered that you can move on to doing the same but then compressing and releasing your suspension so that you begin hopping rather than just wheelying. Once youve mastered that you'll find that doing it on a flat surface etc should be fairly easy to do. I dont think that its a technique that is really required unless you are doing some pretty hard trials.

I would rather just buy a new set of levers and keep the ones that ive bought as spares. I could ride with them if i had no others but prefer the levers which were standard as they are more comfortable to ride with.

hi all i have a 2010 gasser 300 and have snapped my brake lever. ive bought some replacement levers which are ok but feel a very different shape compared to the standard lever on the clutch side (feel more square than rounded across where the finger pulls the lever). ive seen the apico levers are available but was wondering is this the same shape as the original one that came on the bike or are they slightly different in shape like the replacement levers ive bought? as i prefer the original levers to my aftermarket replacement ones. Cheers