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mcman56

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About mcman56

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  • Bike
    Evo 300 Factory
  • Club
    PITS

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    N California
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    Male

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  1. Voltage dividers drop voltage. If you knew the true output at idle, you could step that down to 12 volts or so for the fan and let the AC regulator maintain it down there above idle. I have been playing with a Rev3 ignition and I get 182 volts from the stator going to the CDI and 16 volts from the stator going the the lights/ fan at 670 RPM. This is with a scope but my skills are pretty limited. https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/voltage-dividers
  2. Several places sell universal regulator/ rectifiers. Maybe if the stator wire connected to the CDI and one of those it could work. The people that sell them should know so it may be worth an email to ask. https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/regulator-rectifier-dc-unwired.asp http://www.rickystator.com/product/other-parts/item/regulator-rectifier-w-relay https://www.denniskirk.com/2001630.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxoH3i5T-1gIVDp1-Ch2SaAMlEAQYCCABEgIzdfD_BwE&ad=45713338237
  3. Pickup coils normally just have one wire. Does the green wire also produce voltage? I'm used to seeing something more like the link below of a 1996 where green is power to CDI and red is pulse. Are you jumping Yellow large to Yellow small? The 2004 diagram does suggest that a regulated voltage is being supplied by the regulator. If you really think the regulator is bad, you could try cutting it open to see what is between yellow large and yellow small. This picture does suggest one charging coil. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-GAS-GAS-TXT-PRO-280-DUCATI-STATOR-PLATE-/232490214622?hash=item36217f24de%3Ag%3AnZkAAOSwPfZZvPWH&nma=true&si=zKqaO9%2Frdh%2BGEBvLNxm8fGDXnMM%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
  4. I'm no expert but believe all CDIs take power directly from the stator with no conditioning. See the later model wiring diagram in the link below. The AC frequency is quite high so you probably need an oscilloscope to get an accurate number but it could be more like 200 to 400 VAC. The voltage regulator is just a voltage limiting device. The fan regulator would be a rectifier. Based on the wiring diagram for the newer model, your plan sounds feasible. Do you have a diagram for your model? http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/61402-2013-txt-pro-wiring-diagram/
  5. This one has a right side kickstand but does not look like the picture with the pegs on the web site
  6. http://www.tyoffroad.co.uk/store/p34/FOOTREST_LOWERING_KIT_(BOLT-ON)_TO_FIT_YAMAHA_TY175._(REF.Y026).html Is the TY175 frame the same on all years?
  7. Is it possible to have wide pegs and not have to lift the peg for kick starting? Any pictures? One company advertises them on line but the pictures do not look like the 175 in my garage, maybe it is a 250.
  8. What does ti take to remove the oil pump? Can you just remove the outer cover, pull the pump and install a block off plate? Or do you need to remove the inner cover and pull more parts? Would that mean you need to have an inner cover gasket before starting?
  9. No goo. It actually feels pretty good. I need to ride another bike back to back to see if it is lacking.
  10. The disc is flat. It did have one little gall mark and some wear but I have seen much worse. I have been looking and the gall mark must have occurred on the last ride so it can not be the long term issue. I installed an Apico FIM solid rear disc Beta Evo 09-on made by NG. This was a big improvement but not sure why.
  11. I burped the banjo bolt about 10 times but it feels the same. The pedal does not feel particularity spongy. Low pressure on the pedal produces a very slight drag by the brakes. High pressure provides strong braking. The problem is that there is nothing in the middle. Is this what is called wooden brakes? I guess this could be a bubble or slight fluid leak. I have a new brake disc to try. After that I'll go for a 2017 master cylinder. It also looks like dropping the shock would allow removing the brake system in one piece for off bike vertical bleeding. I have tried all recommended brake pad brands but they feel the same. The only pads I have not tried are the non metallic. I replaced the caliper with a 2017 caliper. I have also done a lot of bleeding but it keeps feeling the same.
  12. I'm chasing an issue with poor initial grab on a rear brake. It works when you stand on it but slight feathering on a slight down hill approach to an obstacle feels very weak. Anyway, I have heard of people putting pressure on master cylinders to strengthen the feel so I thought I would give it a try. I hung a 10 lb weight on the rear brake pedal for maybe a week. It sat in the truck all day with no weigh prior to my ride so I don't know if there was any impact but I noticed that the master cylinder had bled out a very small quantity of fluid. I'm guessing some number of drops. This had to have come through the seals. It still worked as before. Does this confirm a bad master cylinder? Having never tried this before, I don't know the affect on a good working system. Could they all weep a little under such conditions?
  13. I have a 2014 Factory model and it does not have the nut under the top triple clamp for setting tension on the steering bearings. The "fork adjusting ring nut" shown on the 2013 evo parts list is not there. The "ring nut" is shown on the standard 2014 model parts list. I discovered this when I removed the top clamp and the forks started to fall off. So, on the factory, the top nut sets the tension for the steering bearings and holds the top clamp in place. I don't remember how well the top clamp fit but it does have the pinch bolt. Not teh same bike but I was getting a head clunk on a 99 Kawasaki Concours when hitting the brake on the freeway. On that bike, fully torquing the nut above the top clamp removed the clunk. If these come in the right size, they may work as a thin sleeve. http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.7100150cebe5bbc2d6806710237ad1ca?vgnextcatid=2633738&vgnextcat=SHAFT REPAIR SLEEVES&vgnextoid=f5c9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=EN Or, if you know have access to machine tools, you could bore or ream the hole in the top clamp much larger and press fit in a reducing collar that would be a tight fit on the steering spindle.
  14. Some questions - Shouldn't it be the clamping force rather than the clearance that keeps things from moving....like the rear axle in the swing arm? If movement is based on fit, wouldn't you need a press fit to prevent movement, like a big end pin in a crankshaft? I assumed the pinch bolt was to keep the bolt from loosening thus preventing loss of clamping force.
  15. To add more confusion, some bikes respond quicker than others. I mean response as in how quickly the motor increases rpms. I ride a 300 evo yet a friends 125 evo responds quicker. I find that the 250 evos I have ridden respond slightly quicker than my 300 even though it is counter intuitive. Some riders who ride obstacles much larger than I do prefer 125s because they do not have to worry about using too much power. On the other hand, you can be 2 or 3 gears too high and still get through on a 300. I think it comes down to personal taste so you should try as many as you can. I have not ridden many of the other current bikes and my throttle control has probably improved over time but in general, I found the Betas to have softer/ smoother power bands than other bikes. This excludes their current 125. I don't know how they get that much response from a 125.