neta160

Thanks guys. I will have to check with the Club but I believe it is incorporated, which like an LLC, will help. My draft waiver includes a reference to negligence so I think we are covered there. I am kicking around the idea of limiting the waiver to bodily injury and death--This are the types of cases that can be very expensive and put you in the poor house. My friend had an example that I believe we can all relate to. So, if the waiver is limited to bodily injury and death, then it would allow you to sue your buddy if he backs his truck over your trials bike while trying to park in the Club's parking lot!

Hi, Below is a draft club membership application with a liability waiver. If any of you are lawyers, police officers or knowledgable about waivers, I would appreciate your feedback. The intent of the waiver is to protect the club from members and members from members. We have AMA insurance for events. Thoughts? Tim -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ANONYMOUS TRIALS CLUB (CLUB) ~ MEMBERSHIP APPLICAION Name: ____________________________________________________________________________ Address: __________________________________________________________________________ Town/City: ________________________________ State: _____________ Zip: ________________ Phone: ________________________________ Email: _____________________________________ AMA#: _______________________________ Expiration: __________________________________ DOB: __ Minor: (Circle one) YES NO RELEASE AND INDEMNITY AGREEMENT (

My two riding friends and I all have 2007 270s. We each advanced the timing by placing a 4mm drill bit in the slot at the top. The bit was touching the right side of the screw (screw on left) and the right side of the slot. Two of us noticed slight improvement in quickness off the bottom and the third didn't. Two of us ride the local Expert class and the other the local Pro class. The guy in the Pro class didn't notice the difference. We run 2-stroke oil at 80:1 and fuel at 20% C12 to 80% pump gas. I have V-Force reeds. The other two don't. The only difference between our bikes that is a noticiable "setup" difference is that my bike requires substantially leaner carb settings (27.5 pilot at 2-3 turns out, need clip one down from the top and a 135 main). My hunch is that the difference in carburetion is due to the reeds, since it is the only material difference. By the way, the reeds substantially smoothed out the engine compared to my friend's bikes.

I believe Factory rebuilt shocks are in the $500 USD range and new ones are $1000 plus USD range, BUT you would need to check with your Beta dealer for accurate pricing. The cost of a Paioli shock is usually higher than those on other trials bikes because the Paoili shock is a more complicated design. It is more complicated because it is designed to provide "progressiveness" in the suspension. As you know, Beta's have no linkage components. The linkage components in other bikes provide the "progressiveness". THus, most other bikes have non-progressive, less costly, less complicated shocks. BUT, the linkage components in other bikes need to be serviced, repaired and replaced periodically, unlike a Beta. About a year ago BETA was able to provide Paioli rebuild kits. I believe they are in the $60 USD range. They too are available from your Beta dealer. If you want to have your existing Paioli shock rebuilt, contact Ron Commo Sr in VT. He can refer you to the guy I used, Shawn Phelps, or another shop. Shawn runs a side business to rebuild shocks and has been doing so since 1991. He is a Beta rider as well. Assuming Shawn, or whomever you use, has time to service your shock, it is typically only a couple hours of work. Add to that shipping time to and from his shop, you might only be without a shock for a 3-4 days. The cost of servicing your existing shock is far less than replacing it. I would order a rebuild kit in advance. The good news regarding the Paioli shock is that it is servicable. Most shocks on trials bikes are not designed to be maintained (nitrogen and oil changed, seals replaced, etc.). It is important to note that all shocks begin to wear as soon as you use them. THey need to be serviced periodically just like you service the fork oil. I change my fork oil every 3 months during spring, summer and fall. I don't change it in the winter. With all my bikes, I have only been able to get between 6 and 10 months out of a rear shock before it had to be serviced or replaced. I ride about 8-12 hours a week in the spring, summer and fall and around 3-4 in the snowy months. The problem with shocks is they degrade slowly and many riders don't noitice the change until it is too late. It is too late when the bike bounces off everything (no damping) and it is very twitchy when trying to balance. If you stand next to your bike and push down really hard on a peg with your foot to compress the suspension and it jumps off the group 2-4 inches I would say you need to slow down the damping. If you can't slow it down anymore or enough, perhaps it is time for servicing. When I sent my shock out for servicing last week, I had let it go too far. Of the 38 clicks on the shock adjuster screw, I was down to "two out from all the in". WHen my shock was dissabled there was no nitrogen left. I don't recall how much oil was left.

Fortunately, my shock repairman figured out the problem. There was a metal shaving wedged in an orifice up inside the shaft. He was able to pick it out with a piece of welding wire. In any event the shock is being returned tomorrow. Whew! Now I can go riding...

My 07 Rev3 shock has no damping so I sent it to my local shock repairman who has been rebuilding shocks since 1991. After he serviced it the shock now has damping but once compressed it won't return. He has called the top shock rebuilders in the US (Factory Connection, Works Performance), the US importer, the Paioli factory, etc. to compare notes or to get a manual. No luck. Unfortunately, Paioli is on summer vacation. Does anyone know the contact information for someone who is familiar with rebuilding these shocks or where to get a manual???

I have found that blasting the bike up a long hill helps some but it doesn't get a majority of the hardened stuff and goo, out. It appears that the cheap, but time consuming approach, is to use Gunk, Diesel fuel, etc. I no longer want to experiment with lighting a fire in it, nor do I want to try some of the more corrosive solvents, like Caustic Soda or Muriatic Acid. So, I will try the cheap way first. Worse case, I can cut open the chamber, remove the old wool and have a local shop reweld it for probably $50 USD. I believe a new chamber costs around $400 USD.

Hello everyone, It appears that starting a fire inside one end of the header pipe and propping it upright for 30 minutes or so, while the goo burns out, works for steel pipes. Apparently the goo will make a huge gray cloud. However, this approach won't work with aluminum since it will melt. Oven Cleaner doesn't work. Brake fluid doesn't work. How does one clean the goo out of the aluminum center chamber??? Or, is it better to replace it?

The wheel in question is my spare wheel. My primary wheel is out for repair due to another issue. When I get it back and swap out my spare, I will take some pictures. I don't think the spare wheel was repaired since the welds are good quality, smoothed and go across the entire rim. It looks like a factory job.

A new wheel costs $750 USD. I could purchase the rim itself, re-string all the spokes, swap the disc, swap the sprocket, fight with resealing the rimband, swap the tire, etc. Or, maybe there is an easier fix???

I could have sworn that I already posted this question but I can't find it. If I did, my apologies in advance. In any event, the rear rim is wavvy in an area where the rim was welded together. It appears that there wasn't enough rim material to make an 18 inch rim out of one piece so a 4 inch section was welded in. Obviously, there are two weld areas. It is in the 4 inch area where the rim is wavvy. While riding I regularly develop severe rim leaks in the wavvy area and twice now the tire has completely separated from the rim on the wavvy side. To fix the problem, I am thinking of smoothing some J&B Weld or epoxy putty between the waves and filing the entire area as flat as possible. Does this sound like a reasonable solution or does someone have a better idea?

Mxmann, I never made the comparison you made, but I can say that the shock can be set to have very hard damping, if it is in good working order. You want to have the front and back damping and preload about the same. The Beta shock is a progressive one due to linkless suspension. In any event, how old is your bike? On average how many hours are you riding it? What level are you riding at (Novice, Expert, etc.)? For comparison purposes, I ride year round. In the Spring, Summer and Fall I average around 10 hours a week and in the Winter months around 5. I ride at the local Expert level. Shock oil begins degrading slowly from the time the shock is put to use. Often riders change their fork oil a few times a year but not the shock oil. As the shock wears and oil breaks down, the shock gets faster until there is practically no damping left. My Beta is 11 months old and when it was new I had the damping set at 4 clicks in from all the way out. As of yesterday, I have the damping set at 3 clicks out from all the way in--Opposite end of the range. I doubt I can finish the season on the shock without investing in a rebuild kit ($50 USD) and sending the shock out to be serviced. Shock maintenance is a necesasry for good performance. Keep in mind that other things affect the damping and wear and tear on the shock, like the outside temperature, your body weight, etc. By the way, most bikes use 5wt fork oil. Are you sure your forks are set up right? The good news is the Beta shock (Paoli brand) is one of the few (only?) stock shocks that is designed to be rebuildable. There are a few suspension shops that can rebuild non-rebuildable shocks at a higher cost. Compared to other stock shocks on various trials bikes, the Beta shock (Paoli) is good quality. Servicing a rebuildable shock is better than buying a new one periodically.

Does anyone know for sure if adding "Water Wetter" or "Ice" to the anti-freeze in Betas will NOT harm the cases? These products help reduce the operating temperature a bit and work fine in other bikes, but I am a caustious to use these products knowing that a friends 07 Rev7 case was eaten away for some reason.

Chris, Good info. My objective is to get a snappier response starting from low rpms to help with zaps and other techniques. I was hoping that installing a larger carburetor would be a quick and inexpensive fix, but apparently not. That said, I am open to your suggestions. For those reading this thread, please don't misinterpret my desire to tweak my Beta as a sign that I don't like my bike or that it is inferior in some way. To be honest, I have been into Trials for 12 years and have purchased 12 new Trials bikes. My 07 270 Rev3 was my first Beta. I love it, especially the plush suspension and durability, and I plan to buy another one. Also, the carb kits that are available appear to be a well thought out solution with good technical support, in case that is the route any of you want to take. In any event, if you don't mind a few more questions Chris.... What fuel are you using and what is your jetting? When you changed the slide did you have to change anything else to make it run right? (I am running a 27.5 pilot, stock needle in middle position, stock slide, 35 main. Fuel is a mixture of 80% pump gas (93 octane) plus 20% VP Racing C12 (112 octane) and oil at 80:1 ratio. Everyone around here runs some amount of racing fuel to eliminate pinging, except in the 08s.) I have never dabbled with advancing the timing. Is there anything else you can tell me so I can basically duplicate your change? Or, if it is advisable, I will call my local dealer.

My Mikuni is working fine after making the recommended changes (bowl extendor, drilling internal vents, rerouting tubes, etc.). However, I am looking for more low-end snap and was hoping to address it with a larger 28 mm carburetor.