ythan

Yes i think it is too.

All the above, i had a problem the same on my Bultaco sherpa back in the 70s. My problem was the clutch sliping.

It is all together a happy little thing right now, it is right there on start up seems to start better. The bolts were about a 3rd back from the front of the slot. I cant see it stalling the way it is set up it is stronger than it was and not at all fussy, you can stall it but it puts up a good show now. Just been on it this morning the sun is shining here today (beauty of a morning) i am pleased with the bike, a good job done cheap. Thinking about changing the reeds now but then again if it aint broke dont fix it aye .

An update! I worked on the 125 Untill 11PM last night and all day today, i tried a great many things, including lifting the nedle a notch to richen it at the bottom range it ended up in the midle grove one up from where it was, it needed to be 3 1/4 turns out on the mixture screw to be near enough, but lifting it a notch got it 2 1/2 turns out with the 38 pilot i settled on, and with both the 33 pilot and the 38 pilot it ran the best throughout in the grove . The top end i never felt was in question but once i put the biger pilot in it improbed noticably at the bottom. I turned my attention to the timing next.. it was set at 2.7mm from TDC . i played and tested and ended up on 3.2MM, It was snapier at 3.8MM but it ran much smother at 3.2mm. I stuck to 70 to 1 synthetic in super+ unleaded, it ran around a recently bailed hay field for 20 mins in top gear flat out most of the time and it never flufed or showed any sighns of pre ignition or il running whatsoever. Its response when pulling was stronger and smother than before and it had more feel to. It responds far better at the bottom end than it did before, i am not sure if i want to play with it any more right now For 1. i am bored just now, and 2. i want to see how it goes in use give me time to adjust to it in its current set up. Thanks for the advice above everyone, The 38 pilot is a improvemet that worked well for me on this old bike. could be worth a try for others.

The practical advice you guys are leaving here is helpfull, i am ignorant on jet sizes on the pilot jets and mains is the larger number a larger hole flow ? like my 125 has a 122 is that more or less fuel than the 118 main mentioned above? It sounds logical it is but i honestly have no idea. What jet sizes are available ?

That is helpfull i dont expect the earth from it but i want whats there runing right, i remember the main jet had 122 writen on it .... so it has different jet there at least to your wifes set up. I will strip the carb off and finfd the jet sizes and look from there. I may try moving the slide nedle a notch to see if it improves response, but from your post i am mabe near now torque wise. thanks

I striped the bike down top end carb and exhaust, burnt out the exhaust with oxy/acet it is clear, the carb was striped and cleaned and the top end generaly decoked cleaned the ring groves out piston crown head ex port good piston rings fitted, built back up. I have a good tickover i fidled with the two screws so as to get the strongest tickover, i am running it on super+unleaded and synthetic two stroke oil at 70 to 1 ratio, to 5 litres i add 70 ml. I have not touched the ignition yet it starts first or second kick every time and i warm it up well, then try and give it a bit of gear work it seems to splutter in the first two gears but by the trime its in third or fourth it clears the spluter away and revs clean, i can run it for a hour and it will still spluter untill i give it some gear work and clear it out, reving it up unloaded does not seem to clear it properly like when its pulling hard. I have explained how it is running as well as i can. i am quite sure it has no mechanical ills or contamination, but i want naturaly to get it tuned to the best performance i can, I have no idea how to read a two stroke engine for timing and fuel settings for torque and smothness of operation, any tests you cary out to decide where it is wrong would be great, I realise trial and error is the only way but any hints to give me a start would be much appreciated. Hope you all understand my above discription i have told it how it is as close as i can.

I own a sherco 125 a 03 model, it is standard at the moment. it ticks over quite well but seems to lack response a little from tickover . I run it on reserve all the time to prevent any issues the stand pipe may cause, i dont know what jets it has in it at the moment. I have read the exelent discription on jeting by wayne on the scerco manuals, but i would like a little more info if possible on how to set up the cerburation practicaly. What i mean is for improved torque and traction better tractibility etc, i have no idea what to look for and what type of tests to perform with a trials bike of any size let alone a small 125. It seems to me to be running quite well but it is a bit all or nothing when it has to pull hard. I realise i am requesting a very tall order here, but any hints on reading how a bike responds and advice on jetting etc would be good.

Well my findings! As for the clutch drag from cold i changed the oil to Castrol Dexron Mercon III Atf, this as Improved the clutch and the whiring noise is a lot quieter. I took notice of a few betas at trials and it is now about the same as others, Good stuff that ATF if you have issues as the above post, i would do as i did it was a shock just how much it changed things for this bike.

Thanks for the input here everyone. much to learn and now a little more to go on thanks .

Bata rev 3 a 2003 250 has a whine from what seems to be the clutch, not sure if i am truthfull. It seems to get a little quieter as it gets warm, WHAT IS IT! causing this whining sound. All the gears work fine and the clutch is fine(once initialy cleared from stone cold) if just a little heavier than my sherco. Help. it is niggling me.

Any body care to talk me through a 180 from a start. I just cant get right round and i end up touching down and i get flicked about, i either end up in a heap or jar my back somehow . I just cant get it.

Great info thank you.

The new bearing is a NSK think they are japanese just a comercial available bearing, as for the rod condition its fine no up and down movement, and the land is unmarked.

The small end bearing on my sherco 125 had broken the cage, in a way i have personaly not seen before. It cracked a web but no further damage was done, the only anoying part was i droped a nedle into the crank case when striping the piston off. I got it out by tiping the entire bike upside down . The original gold coloured bearing look to have a slightly wider web compared to most other small end bearings, i have replaced the original with a bearing with narower webs. It was mentioned to me in passing that sherco had changed from the early bearing to another type, i have no way of knowing if this is true or just hearsay. Have shercos of this age (pree 2004) a issue with small ends? And did they indeed change frome the aforesaid bearing to another make? Can you see any reason i have mabe overlooked ..Why! i should not use the comercial bearing i have to replace the factory issued ones?