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About nh014

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/10/1942

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  • Bike
    348 CotaX3 Beta Rev3
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  • Location
    Akron PA USA
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  1. The assembly you have shown is the gear shift detent. It is secured by a 17 mm bolt, located on the upper rear, sprocket side of the case. Detent pressure can be "adjusted" by adding or removing washers. Increasing the spring pressure will make it shift slightly harder, but with less chance of jumping out of gear.
  2. The serial number is pretty strong evidence that you have a 1983 Cota 350. I have a 1983 Cota 350, serial number 51M26546. That's close enough to your Cota to confirm what you have, but doesn't really address the front end differences on your Cota.
  3. I'd consider the tether an unnecessary and attendance killing requirement for vintage meets.
  4. It appears to be an 82 Cota 248. See image from Southwest Montesa Model Gallery.
  5. Just did it on a 2014 300 Evo. Required removal of the rear fender, air box, carb, carb intake manifold, and exhaust manifold. With those parts out of the way the fuel tap can be pulled out
  6. It is quite a distance, but Lewisport in the US carries them. Try Home > MOTO TRIAL > PARTS > EXHAUST > OTHER PRODUCTS
  7. Standard torque for M8 hardware is: Class 8.8 - 22 Nm Class 10.9 - 32 Nm Class 12.9 - 37 Nm
  8. Check for ethanol free gas stations.
  9. Check the jet block gasket. A failed, or out of place, gasket can cause both fuel and air leakage
  10. Now here is another slant on the subject. As a checker in the Maryland and Pennsylvania woods, I always welcomed the exhaust fumes to help keep the May flies, ticks, deer fly's, and mosquito's at bay.
  11. Oil recommendations can get quite opinionated at times, but in our family of bikes (three vintaqe Montesa's, a 2011 Gas Gas 300, and two 2014 Beta 300's) we use Maxima MTL 75wt oil. It's designed for wet clutches and In my opinion far superior to 10W30 or ATF
  12. Installed one on my Montesa 348 over five years and never looked back. Well worth the price.
  13. The information was compiled by Ron Saum, when he was the US importer of SWM motorcycles.
  14. From the late John Haberdosch: Procedure for removal: Remove Cylinder Head: It will typically take a 17mm socket to remove the 10mm nuts. Insert 7mm Allen wrench into hole and engage sleeve nut. Turn counterclockwise and unscrew from stud. Remove with pencil magnet. Tap cylinder with rubber or dead blow hammer to loosen connection. Strike against the edge of the fins, not on top or bottom of them. You can also strike beneath the intake manifold and exhaust port. Do not use a hard hammer. Slide cylinder up part way. Press rags or paper kitchen towels in crankcase beneath piston. Remove cylinder. This all seems very simple. About 1 out of every 2 engines has a severely stuck sleeve nut. You can soak the nut with liquid wrench or any number of penetrating oils and let it stand for a day or more. I haven’t the patience. Even after a week of using penetrant it only works about 1/10th of the time. What to do, what to do? Heat? Doesn’t work. Maybe the stud will pull before the Allen wrench rounds off the inside of the nut. Been there, done that. The sleeve nut will round out. Once you rounded out the nut it’s time to drill. Drilling: Get some cutting oil and an electric drill. Select a suitable sharp drill bit. Make the selection of a size that will only drill the stud out. Remove all of the sleeve nuts that can be removed. You don’t want to drill into the cylinder casting. Start drilling. This will take some time but at least you will feel like you are doing something. Remove chips occasionally with the pencil magnet. Measure your progress in some fashion. Resume drilling. Eventually you will destroy enough of the stud to remove the cylinder. Use locking pliers and remove the remains of the stud. Order another stud and nut. There are special steel washers at the bottom of those holes for the sleeve nut to press against. If they fall out; save them. If they stayed in the hole, leave them there. Just remember to return the washers to the correct holes on reassembly. Clean all nuts and loose washers. Use a 7mm x 1.00 tap and die to clean the threads.
  15. My mistake. It's 2268010. Spring came loose from its pawl retainers, leaving transmission stuck in first gear.