Bok228c Is Lost.
#51
Posted 03 January 2010 - 09:44 PM
#52
Posted 05 January 2010 - 05:48 PM
OK,
Got a lump of Jelutong,( Wood from Malaysia) and have sourced some 3mm Birch ply too model the fins on the wooden pattern. And have been in touch with the "Monkey on my shoulder"! (sorry Paulie) and he has told me he has an old book in his extensive library, on casting practices, he also said I need a Pattern Makers Rule, or a "Shrink rule" as they are called. He has an old Rabone catalog with one in but said it was 2 shillings and 6d. so the price was well out of date. The only one I can find, is in the States, but it would be wouldn't it, as them boys are into every thing. Paulie said, don't forget if you intend to fit a dry sand core into the mould you will have to incorporate prints into the pattern to hold this. Yea OK Boy, I said. Looks like I am getting into a whole new world of "Foundry Speak". Looking like fun though.
Regards Charlie.
#53
Posted 05 January 2010 - 05:56 PM
charlie prescott, on Jan 5 2010, 05:48 PM, said:
OK,
Got a lump of Jelutong,( Wood from Malaysia) and have sourced some 3mm Birch ply too model the fins on the wooden pattern. And have been in touch with the "Monkey on my shoulder"! (sorry Paulie) and he has told me he has an old book in his extensive library, on casting practices, he also said I need a Pattern Makers Rule, or a "Shrink rule" as they are called. He has an old Rabone catalog with one in but said it was 2 shillings and 6d. so the price was well out of date. The only one I can find, is in the States, but it would be wouldn't it, as them boys are into every thing. Paulie said, don't forget if you intend to fit a dry sand core into the mould you will have to incorporate prints into the pattern to hold this. Yea OK Boy, I said. Looks like I am getting into a whole new world of "Foundry Speak". Looking like fun though.
Regards Charlie.
Love to see some pictures as you progress.
Ross
(.)(.) + £ = ( . )( . )
#54
Posted 06 January 2010 - 02:57 PM
Pat Slinn,
Just e-mailed me with this information, I'm sure he won't mind me re publishing it on here. He also said,did I think the Scottish Pre65 committee, would allow cast in push rod tunnels on A C15? You tell me.
Here is Pats e-mail.
Hi Charlie,
Part of my "general" engineering training whilst a apprentice at BSA was spending time in the pattern making shop and casting prototype castings. BSA management in their infinite wisdom decided to close down the pattern shop and have all casting out sourced. another lost skill. Apart from sending young apprentices for "long waits" and "left handed screwdrivers" some of us were tricked into using "shrink" rules for general use!!!!. Causing great fun amongst the older craftsmen. If anybody tried that to day it would probably be a violation of something or other. As you progress with the patterns perhaps you could post them on trials central, that would make a very interesting post. Funny you should mention Jelutong a friend of mine only showed me a piece that he had in his garage, his father was a pattern maker. Pat.
Yes Pat I will post some photos as I progress.
Regards Charlie.
#55
Posted 12 January 2010 - 10:26 AM
was thinking of doing one myself. cheers kev
#56
Posted 12 January 2010 - 04:21 PM
Hi Kev.
Right, first you need a surface table, or a flat surface of some kind. And also the use of a set of gas bottles.
Now, as you look at the swinging arm from the back, the right hand leg is straight? Yes? now this is the side you modify. you really want two angle brackets with holes in to be able to bolt the pivot spindle to these brackets , and then clamp them to the table, if you see where I am coming from. Now, If you look at the casting the tubes are brazed into, you will see that the left one (from the Back) points out at a slight angle, this is the profile you need for the other side. So you really need some one with gentle hands to put outward pressure on the right hand leg,while you heat the casting diagonally across the corner until it is about cherry red, your other pair of hands should then feel the leg moving slightly, now just play the heat gently on to the casting until it resembles the other side, (DO NOT) Apply to much heat or the casting will crack. The right hand leg should now be out at an angle. Let the casting cool. Now measure and mark up where you need to bend the leg tube to match the other. Again apply heat to the leg tube at the point where it needs to be bent. gently pull this back when hot, too the profile of the left one, and until the back dropouts are parallel.If you string a center line from the front you should now have a measurement from this center line on both side of the center of about 3. 7/16" . When cool you can cold set and true on the face table. After some time I also decided to lengthen the back spindle plates by 1", then filling in the same amount of spindle hole at the front. Should I have made or bought a newly manufactered one? But it was fun.
This is something like it should look, Picture Greystone.
Edited by charlie prescott, 12 January 2010 - 04:23 PM.
#57
Posted 12 January 2010 - 04:55 PM
#58
Posted 12 January 2010 - 06:39 PM
Hi Kev.
Good news then, all you need do is lengthen the plates at the wheel spindle end by 1" to be a good job. The arms you have could be BSA Bantam D7 I think. Do they measure 6 3/4" ish, between plates? I'm here to be corrected as I have never used them, perhaps I should have? To any one who carries out similar mods ,Don't forget you need to widen the top damper mounts to the same width as the swinging arm, or use Trikshocks, or any units with Rose joints.
Regards Charlie.
#59
Posted 12 January 2010 - 07:20 PM
charlie prescott, on Jan 12 2010, 06:39 PM, said:
Hi Kev.
Good news then, all you need do is lengthen the plates at the wheel spindle end by 1" to be a good job. The arms you have could be BSA Bantam D7 I think. Do they measure 6 3/4" ish, between plates? I'm here to be corrected as I have never used them, perhaps I should have? To any one who carries out similar mods ,Don't forget you need to widen the top damper mounts to the same width as the swinging arm, or use Trikshocks, or any units with Rose joints.
Regards Charlie.
Hi Charlie
I take it that your background is engineering, interesting getting the hands on experience/info that you obviously have. (and Wayne)
(.)(.) + £ = ( . )( . )
#60
Posted 14 January 2010 - 01:44 PM
Just been doing a bit more research on BSA and came up with this GEM http://www.babelgum....jeff-smith.html. Now sit back and enjoy a piece of history,filled with information.Brilliant. Bruce Cox ! Is it the Bruce Cox I used to know way back,from Banbury?
Regards Charlie.
#61
Posted 14 January 2010 - 03:40 PM
#62
Posted 16 January 2010 - 10:46 AM
#63
Posted 16 January 2010 - 12:45 PM
Hi Kev,
Yes as long as the weld is good there should be no problem, you could always go over the top and stress relieve it, by reheating, then polish the plates up and temper them to the correct colour, cool in oil.
I should use it for a while,and make sure it is OK before powder coating, but that is the way to go. PS I should leave the welds as they are and not grind them down.
Regards Charlie.
#64
Posted 16 January 2010 - 01:28 PM
so you may have other questions along the way !! hope you dont mind ..kev
#65
Posted 16 January 2010 - 03:22 PM
Hi Kev.
Here to help if I can, Many have helped me with information, here on TC, And I thank them all for it.
Regards Charlie.
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