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Buying A Rev3...advise Needed Please


mickrayner
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Thinking of getting a 2001 (I think) Rev3, Dark red plastics not the orangey ones like the '04, does that sound right for the year?

I know the water pump lining comes off and gets water in the oil but I have heard about Stator problems, is that just newer ones or across the whole run of them.

Are there any other faults with them, I know there could be anything up with it but after common ones that happen.

Its in fairly good condition, still has lights and bar switches, bash plate isnt badly damaged so it may have had either a good rider or not been used that much. Road reg'd but not MOT'd at the moment. Overall condition looks ok, has the wrong front mudguard and the rear is badly scuffed but not broken, front brake is rubbish plus a few bits need doing to get it 100%

Bottom line, how much...is it worth a Grand?

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go to the betauk website for pictures of each year so you can work out which yours is (if you have the frame or engine number they have charts on there as well to work out exactly which year it is)

as for the condition how good is each year question faults to look for etc

  • have a look at the whole of the bike is it clean with no obvious damage (damage that would affect its use,)
  • make a note of all the stuuf that is wrong as you go along so you have some idea of repairs at the end
  • wheels are they bent, broken spokes, bearings ok, tyres ok
  • engine, has it any leaks, water/oil, is the engine physically damaged (craked casings etc) does the oil look nice and clean in the crankcase
  • take the water pump cover off (2 jubilee clips and couple of allen bolts) inside it should be nice and clean with NO signs of rust, the first signs would be round the very edges where the metal is thinnest.
  • take the air filter cover off, (one screw) is the filter in one piece is it nice and clean, take the filter out (one screw) is the airbox nice and clean inside get your finger or a screwdriver and put it right to the bottom of the airbox below where the air goes in the carb there should be NO mud dust silt water down there
  • grab hold of the rear wheel and give it a good old yank to see if thier is movement in the swing arm check the reaer shock is not leaking
  • check the chain how much have the chain adjusters been turned round can you pull the chain away from the rear of the rear sproket, what do the teeth look like on the rear sproket they should be uniform with no chipping or uneven wear
  • check the front forks do they go up and down smoothly are the chrome bits nice and smooth with no scrathes or rust are they leaking
  • chek the head bearings by putting front brake on and trying to rock the bike back and forwards thier should be no movemnet at the steering head
  • cheack the front brake pads thier should be 2 mm at least on each pad and the disc needs to be smooth and straight does it work the front wheel should lock up, exactly the same for the rear
  • start the bike up (by now it will be nice and cold incase the seller had warmed it up before you got there!) it should tick over once warm with the choke off let it warm up
  • out of gear rev it and roll it off you should hear no knocking like somebody hitting it with a hammer especially as it nears idle
  • ride the thing up and down (no need for wheelies) just to make sure it goes up and down all the gears and that the clutch works ok
  • stand back and let it tick over until the fan comes on
  • look at the list youve made and then ask the seller how much he wants for it
  • remember with a trials bike your buying on condition not on age much better an A1 1995 than a 2005 thats never had an oil change and has failed all the above

betas are simple and reliable , Stators fail on 03 bikes water pumps can corrode the carbs can play up (leak) but the best news is lampkins deliver next day( although in the couple of years i've had mine I've never had to call them..

most important bit ''you want how much for it???''

a nice clean 2001 bike requiring a couple of hundred spending on it (bear in mind that new tryes will set you back two thirds of that pads 15 quid a wheel bearings the same, new plastics and decals would take all the 200) would be worth 800/850 max any more work and the bike would soon be down to 650/750 if you pay any less than 650 you either get a bargain or a wrong un ( your more likely to get the latter)

Edited by totalshell
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Unless you know where to get em cheap :)

Talking of which, I need a new fron tyre for my Rev 3. Any suggestions? ;)

Just go to the same spot you would get tyres for your car, they can order them in.

Bob

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