7 replies to this topic

[Trials92]

New to this but here goes.

I have a 125 Sherco.The clutch is not working correctly.I have bled the clutch through (I hope) and the slave cylinder is moving in and out as it should.I also removed the clutch inspection cover and can see the clutch plate moving around 1-2 mm.Could it be that either the master or slave cylinder seals are weak? I am at a bit of a loss (both mentaly and fiscally.. ! )

[copemech]

The plates are probably warped. Check them on a flat surface(glass). Mine did the same thing sometime back, and I just replaced the steel plates. Although it is OK, replacing both would be better.

If you make a couple of little "bent wire" tools, you can just lay the bike over on its side and remove the cover and the six bolts and springs to remove them. They will slide right out if you hook them with the tools.

Hope that helps!

[Trials92]

Thanks for that, will check the plates later today....

[RuffRider]

Not sure if this helps but I had similar problems on both my Betas.

From what I gather there's several possible causes ......

- System needs bleeding .... looks like you're okay on that.

- Not sure about clutch plates being warped but certainly if they get too smooth/glazed, then the oil helps to create a vacuum so the plates remain locked together, especially when the oil is cold. People have suggested deglazing them with some fine wet-d-dry, I guess you could try this to prove this is the problembefore putting new plates on.

- grooves in the clutch cage 'wings' that the plates get locked into. You could, as I did, file these out but you need to be careful as this could lead to a little clutch chatter. Best bet would be to replace clutch cage if this proves to be a problem

- Use lighter gear oil

Hope this helps.

[gaz]

how far should the plates actually move? My adjustment screw on the clutch lever is all the way in. does this mean I need to bleed the system also?

[copemech]

They only move a couple mm so that the plates can separate!

[kevin j]

when you say adjustment screw on the lever is all the way in, are you reducing the piston travel? Like the brake master cyliners, there are bleed ports in the bottom of reservoir. If the piston is stopped too far in and doesn't return back past that bleed hole, it can't replenish the fluid in the line and travel of slave is reduced.

Make sure the piston moves fully back to the snap ring or stopper, and leave some very small clearance to the lever scree, then try it. If that helps, then fine tune the adjusting screw

[gaz]

the actuator on the outside of the master cyclinder moves about a third of its travel before the clutch is "activated". this is why the adjustment screw is all the way in, so to take up this travel. i will take a look at the bleed port on the master cyclinder tho... thanks for that, I didnt know about it.

The reason I ask about the clutch plates is that when Iv been riding I haven't had any trouble with the clutch, but when stationary I noticed that it changed gear alot easier when the lever was pulled all the way into the handle bar. I'd have thought it should be like that when, using 1 finger, pulling the lever to your knuckles. I guess this may have something to do with the above problem???