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Changing Main Bearings, Anything To Watch Out For?


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Hi all

This is my first bike so I'm looking for some enlightenment from some of you more experienced mechanics:

I'm about to 'try' and change the main bearings on my 250cc 2000 Rev 3. I was hoping that one of you might be kind enough to spend a few minutes to give me a rough outline of the process involved. As I appreciate this might be a little time consuming, if this sounds like too much work, could you instead give me some pointers please? thanks, thanks and more thanks =)

The engine is already off the bike with the head/top, flywheel, stator, carb

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On a more specific note:

I'm in the process of prising the block apart, however, on the flywheel side, the crank doesn't seem to want to leave the housing.

I've got the two halfs of the block this far apart:

engine_crankMovement2.jpg

Click for larger image

However, as you can see in this image, the crank doesn't seem to have left the housing:

engine_crankMovement.jpg

Click for larger image

My initial thought is to get a hammer and knock the flywheel end of the crank back into the block but thought I'd ask you guys first.

Or, perhaps the crank is meant to come off with this side of the block and needs to be undone from the other side? Which would mean removing this bolt and working from there right?

engine_gearbox.jpg

Click for larger image

Cheers guys.

Edited by Glyph
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What! there's a workshop manual? lol

Well I'm nearly there. One main bearing is now replaced.

I just cant seem to remove the crank now.

engine.JPG

After referring to the technical diagrams (Thanks swooshdave =)) I can see that I don't need to take the clutch off =) LMAO =)

It should just come out now right? No? =S

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The crank will be a tight fit into the bearing so it will take a little force to remove it.

I take it your going to replace the seals as well as the bearings ?

if so you will need to remove the clutch so you can get the primary gear and weight off to fit the seal. As you have removed the barrel etc already you will have very little resistance to stop the clutch basket turning so you will need a compressor to remove the clutch centre nut. DO NOT attempt to hold the clutch basket, they break very easily and are rather expensive to fix.

have fun

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Thanks for the advice Baldilocks, I noticed the clutch plate was easy to break :wacko:

Oh well, you live and learn I guess.

I'm buggered if I can get the crank seals in now though. I've been trying from inside the crank case though. I'll have to get the clutch basket off and try from the other side.

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Just tried the crank seal from the external side of the crank case (flywheel side) and it went straight in =)

Do the bearings need lubricating before putting into place?

Edited by Glyph
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I'm buggered if I can get the crank seals in now though. I've been trying from inside the crank case though.

I'm not buying this anymore Glyph, your either an extremely gifted comedian or this is a wind up !

The last bloke to try to fit crank seals from the inside was the DIY guy on Kenny Everett !!

the clutch basket nut needs to be tight but theres a lock washer anyway, the primary gear i'd use a windy gun.

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I'm not buying this anymore Glyph, your either an extremely gifted comedian or this is a wind up !

LMAO, leave me alone, it's my first bike. :wacko:

Thanks again for your advice though Baldilocks, I've just bought a Wizzer off ebay so I'm waiting for that to arrive before I can remove the clutch basket.

Does anybody know a good place to price up a clutch plate?

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Baldilocks, think its that new fangled text talk writing for Laugh My a*** Off mate :wacko:

Glyph any chance of a full write up when your done????

I know there will be loads of us wanting to know how to do this if some havent already!

Your efforts/mistakes are refreshing that we are not the only ones!

Also you may find this interesting....A full engine rebuild

http://offwidth.co.uk/bike/crm_rebuild/index.html

Although its a crm most of the principles are the same

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