Montesa Clutch Drag
#1
Posted 13 November 2007 - 03:22 PM
cheers
Mark
#2
Posted 13 November 2007 - 04:00 PM
markiemark, on Nov 13 2007, 03:22 PM, said:
cheers
Mark
Mark
Its a common 315 problem. Usually a change of oil helps. Try a very light motorcycle gearbox oil. ATF Dexron II or Ford MT 75 fluid. However dont expect perfection, they all drag to some extent. Its just a case of making it bearable.
#3
Posted 13 November 2007 - 09:34 PM
I bought a 315r a year ago and experienced the same problem. Mine was really bad on idle but better if you raised the revs slightly. Sandifords recommended using Silkolene Pro SRG 75 oil which helped but eventually I had to just change the clutch plates - not a difficult job. Try either Sandifords or I've been told Havensport (think thats right) do an aftermarket clutch that works well.
Good luck with it
Nick
#4
Posted 16 November 2007 - 09:46 PM
#5
Posted 17 November 2007 - 12:36 AM
apparently thats why Doug left
#6
Posted 17 November 2007 - 09:08 AM
Baldilocks, on Nov 17 2007, 12:36 AM, said:
apparently thats why Doug left
Can't remember what my clutch is like
Couldn't get a certain hairless wonder off my MONTESA 4RT long enough for me to ride it.
Baldilocks catchphrase whilst on a MONTESA " I'll just try that again"
#7
Posted 17 November 2007 - 03:17 PM
windlestone, on Nov 17 2007, 09:08 AM, said:
Couldn't get a certain hairless wonder off my MONTESA 4RT long enough for me to ride it.
Baldilocks catchphrase whilst on a MONTESA " I'll just try that again"
Couldn't help myself
I used to have a 315 though
You can apparently fit CR250 clutch plates to the 315 although I haven't done it myself. From memory I think there are three paper based plates and the others are fibre or cork, its the paper plates that cause the dragging.
I just used PJ1 cluch tuner in mine and it was ok
Edited by Baldilocks, 17 November 2007 - 03:18 PM.
#8
Posted 18 November 2007 - 09:09 PM
#9
Posted 19 November 2007 - 11:52 AM
If, as I did, you leave the bike standing for a few weeks (shame) then find you clutch is solidy locked in, don't despair......get on some muddy ground, start 'er up, bang it in gear....(hang on tight 'cos she'll be off!), then clunk up the gears to 4th, pull the clutch lever in, lean over the bars to keep the front down, and give it a fistfull. This should free up the plates.
Don't make the mistake (as I did) of trying this on tarmac.....I still have the scars where the footpeg tried to eat my leg as the bike shot off down the road....(I didn't let it get away, but it would have been great on Youtube)
randyrat
#10
Posted 19 November 2007 - 01:29 PM
An off road mechanic told me the steel plates get glazed and stick to the friction plates like two pieces of wet glass for want of a better description. He said to sand the steel plates with a fairly course emry cloth. I did it and it works but only lasts 3 - 4 trials.
I then fitted a Haven clutch kit and it was a revelation. The bike was 100% better.
#11
Posted 19 November 2007 - 10:21 PM
#12
Posted 20 November 2007 - 08:32 AM
markiemark, on Nov 19 2007, 10:21 PM, said:
randyrat
#13
Posted 20 November 2007 - 06:11 PM
randyrat, on Nov 20 2007, 02:32 AM, said:
Very important piece of advice! Un-doing bad habits is a lot worse than just learning them right the first time. Riding by yourself, it is easy to get very good at doing things the wrong way. Then, one day, you wonder why you are not getting any better as a rider, and it is because you are trying to build on a bad foundation.
but they are no substitute for brains!
#14
Posted 22 November 2007 - 07:08 PM
markiemark, on Nov 13 2007, 10:22 AM, said:
cheers
Mark
1. New standard clutch plates. Cork and paper. The mix of material helps the engagement to be more progressive. Insert them in the proper order (ask the supplier).
2. Sanded the steel plates with a crosshatch pattern with something about 400 grit.
3. Use oil recommended by the manual. It was ELF, but don't remember the exact spec on that.
Clutch worked perfect. Zero drag and nice progressive engagement. Depending on rider and conditions, these clutches are worked hard, so they may only be good for a year or two. Any 315 that's been rode hard and put away wet will probably need a clutch rebuild.
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