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Changing The Coolant


pinkbike
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Hello everyone.

I am new to trials, can anybody help with the procedure to change the coolant on a Rev3 270 2006?

Also I would like to replace it with a pre-mix, again does anybody have any suggestions on which type to recommend?

I look forward to your informative replies.

Thanks in advance.

Pinkbike

Edited by pinkbike
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Yes, I have recently purchased the bike, and am reading stories of corroded engine casings. Anyway, I thought it was good practice to change the fluids anyway.

Incidentally I think I have worked out how to drain the system. There is a cross head screw at the bottom/side of the water pump housing, I am guessing that is the drain plug, is this correct?

Also regarding fluid levels, what should they be?

Can I just add another quality coolant, or would I need to replace all of the fluid?

Sorry for so many questions, but I am just trying to understand a little more about the bike. Thanks in advance.

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Use purified, deionized water and Red Line's WaterWetter. That will stop any new corrosion of the aluminum and will lubricate the pump seal. All of the name-brand coolants are designed for engines with aluminum components, so whatever is availble in your area should work.

Bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler hole.

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To drain the coolant, get a bucket or something ready, remove the drain bolt (yes, the one on the water pump housing), then unscrew the radiator cap. As for replacement coolant, I always use Coolanol which is really just an antifeeze and distilled water mix ('cause I'm lazy - I'd buy pre-mixed fuel if I could :rotfl:) but it's always worked well for me and I've never had cooling or corrosion problems.

Edited by neonsurge
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Guys, Thanks for your responses, it really helps.

Any tips on engine oil? I noticed mine is pink, so I am guessing it is ATF.

Will there be any difference if I revert back to ordinary oil, and would I need to flush the engine first?

Or shall I stay with the ATF, if so, which would you recommend?

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Use purified, deionized water and Red Line's WaterWetter. That will stop any new corrosion of the aluminum and will lubricate the pump seal. All of the name-brand coolants are designed for engines with aluminum components, so whatever is availble in your area should work.

Bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler hole.

The Beta waterpump housing is made of magnesium not aluminum and is much more subject to corrosion. Get ahold of your local Beta dealer or importer and ask them what to use. When you drain your coolant you might want to pull the cover and see what it looks like in there.

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