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neils on wheels

Ngk Or Champion Spark Plug?

8 posts in this topic

Does anyone have experience or advice to offer regarding the choice between NGK & Champion spark plugs in an '08 Beta?

The spec sheet states the plug to be a Champion N7YCC, whilst the manual recommends use of an NGKBR7ES. I know these are equivalents, but does one suit the bike more than the other?

My bike is a 125, but I think the plug recommendation is the same for all capacities.

Cheers,

Neil

Edited by Neils on Wheels

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Don't want these Ads? Why not sign up as a Trials Central Supporter.

Throw the Champion in the nearest bin and get an NGK, always used the BPR5es in the 270's and works really well

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I agree, NGK every time, no specific info on Beta's, but back in the day when I rode two strokes on the road it was a no-brainer. Champions didn't last 1/2 as long as NGKs, so I have never gone back to champions (except in my lawn mower and that came with a champion).

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Not necessarily equivalent.

The plug that comes with the 08 is an NGK BR7ES not (BPR7ES). This is a non-projected tip plug. The Champion N7YCC of the earlier bike is a projected tip plug.

Not sure if the change was due to a different head design but it is a worth a mention.

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I will always use NGK plugs in ALL my motorcycles I will never use a Champion again.

Quick story.

Adjusted valves on 250 ninja, decided to change plugs. Go to local auto parts store ask for 2 of these, (handing him my NGK plugs.)

He says "we only carry Champion" I said "well cross reference them, should be equivalent" Boy was I wrong. The listing for 250 ninja in the champion book came up with a plug that has a different heat rating than the NGK. I found that out after my bike over heated and and burned a hole in one of my exhaust valves.

And no the valves were not adjusted incorrectly, they were perfectly in the middle of the spec. I checked before pulling the head off to take to bike shop for repair.

Any engine that is heat sensitive should NEVER use Champion plugs.

Edited by ZIPPY

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Er, the plug heat range doesn't change the engine temperature unless the plug is so hot that it causes pre-ignition. The heat range is just the amount of heat that is conducted away from the tip of the plug. It has to be hot enough to burn off contaminants that can short out the electrodes and cold enough to not ignite the mixture before the spark. Your engine must have been well into a sustained pre-ignition condition for a considerable amount of time to hole a valve. I'll bet you were going like a bat outta hell when it failed. Lucky it didn't stick a piston.

For the record I NEVER let the parts guy tell me what the equivalent plug is. I always look it up myself and if I have to change to a different plug I always take it out and read it after 10-15 minutes while keeping a very close ear on my engine.

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Dan Williams Posted Today, 09:59 PM

I'll bet you were going like a bat outta hell when it failed.

Is there any other way to ride a 250 Ninja? :wall: Don't red line until 14,000rpms. :beer:

It may not have been the heat range that caused the failure, but I did some research (online of course, so may not be 100% accurate).

Found out I was not the only person to have this issue.

I have a Temp gauge on the bike, when it holed the valve I looked down and it was in the red. Only rode about 10 miles when this happened, which is consistent with what I discovered during research after the fact.

Had proper coolant level in it. problem was solved with NGK plugs. (oh and a hefty repair bill for valves and valve lapping)

Any ways learned a lesson, only use NGK in my bikes.

And yep was very lucky that the piece of valve that came off went out the exhaust and did not stick or score the piston and cylinder. Very very lucky.

Edited by ZIPPY

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Seems to me that people never quite realize the fact that those crossover charts are not too good. Being in the car business for a LONG time, I have seen lots of wierd things with plugs.

There aer also some plugs I hate, such as those Splitfire things.

Yes there are many equivelent plugs that work without problem, but you never quite know untill it is a problem.

Therefore, the best overall recommendation is to stick closely with the mfg. spec plug! And if you are going to vary at all, stick with the same brand, such as a change from a NGK BP5ES to a BP5EVX platnum, same range, same maker!

Any thing else and you become the test pilot!

So Biff made you fix what you tore up,eh Zipper? I hate that :wall:

Nothing wrong with Champions in the CORRECT applications! :beer:

Edited by copemech

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