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#1 spud

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Posted 14 July 2008 - 06:06 PM

On Sunday i had the good fortune of testing two other identical 240's. In comparison both had a far better rear brakes. Th drum on mine is scored which is to be expected for a bike of this age, so what can i do as the shoes are in good order? My clutch has the arm extended. I find it bites over two thirds its action and i'd like to reduce the bite to a little more on and off? I was also told if the bike was built after 1982 it will be road registered? If this is the case how can i request and log book and would i need to prove ownership and past bills of sale to prove my true ownership?

#2 Lee Harris

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 07:10 PM

hi spud, cant help with the log book bit but you are spot on with the clutch. More on off will come with a shorter lever but it will be much heavier. I reckson so heavy that you will be back to at least 3 fingers.

Of course you could try riding it like an 80s bike and leave the clutch alone!!!............................

Thats what i luv on fantics, esp the 240 they have simalar motor characteristics to some modern bikes.

The rear drum can be re-line but i have no adresses. I would try new shoes first, cheap and may work better
HTH
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#3 spud

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Posted 31 July 2008 - 06:09 PM

Having just fitted new clutch plates i've come across a bit of a problem - that is the clutch cable is now not long enough???. When the cable is connected and with adjusters backed off fully the clutch cable is too short. When i installed the new clutch plates I did notice on the clutch basket cover (this is the cover the clutch springs sit on) there was an arrow marker. The clutch cable was fine before i fitted the new clutch plates, so its me and something i've done. Does anyone know if the clutch needs to be in a certain position when new plates are fitted? To remove the clutch springs I locked the clutch so to enable me to undo the springs and i did rotate the engine very slightly doing this.

I've also fitted some new rear brake shoes but i've now got a bit of a squeek. A bit annoying will this stop when the shoes are bedded in?

Edited by spud, 31 July 2008 - 06:21 PM.


#4 Lee Harris

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Posted 31 July 2008 - 08:45 PM

Hmmm? The arrow on the cover helps you line it up with where you took it out.....

If you managed to screw against the springs then its ok. Put another way, if it was not ok, then the screws would be too short.

Open the clutch cover screw (BIG flat headscrewdriver) on the side engine case. There is a flathead adjuster and a locknut, Are these backed out?

How many plates did you take out? the same as you put in? Some repair kits came with one plate more to try curing the clutch slip.

Your actuation arm is extended and this may aiding your problem. If there are no obvoius clues, lay the bike over, take the clutch out again and measure the thickness of all the paltes comparted to the old. shouldnt be miore than 1mm.

If I had a dutch guy driving up the the sunn inn from dover on 22nd august , want to tag along and pay haklves with him on petrol. it would be nice to meet uop

Lee

Edited by Lee Harris, 31 July 2008 - 08:46 PM.

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#5 axulsuv

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Posted 01 August 2008 - 10:28 AM

Hi Spud ;
Rear brake squeek ! I went thru the same thing ! I finally found the return springs just touching the hub ... I just turned the springs over so they went behind the shoe in relation to the backing plate . (I truly don't remember , but just put them on opposite of what you have now ! )
The sound mine made was QUITE distracting ... but all is quiet now .
Cheers , Glenn
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#6 waltergallons

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Posted 01 August 2008 - 10:44 PM

Hello Spud

I believe that one of those 240's that you tried out at the Double 5 trial was mine. We've spoken briefly before. I live in the same town as you. My sister lives just down the road from you.

Just wondering how much your clutch arm has been lengthened by. Perhaps it was ok for worn plates but not for new chunkier ones.

My clutch plates are new. The clutch arm has been extended by Bill Pye, and he also supplied me with the corresponding bracket that bolts to the engine that the clutch cable end sits in. I've got the measurements if you want to compare, or alternatively you can come and have a look at the bike as we live so close.

On the subject of the brakes, I had both my hubs relined by Dave Renham. Can't remember how much exactly it cost me, but I think it was about £80/£90 for both hubs.

Walter

#7 spud

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Posted 03 August 2008 - 06:49 PM

View Postwaltergallons, on Aug 1 2008, 11:44 PM, said:

Hello Spud

I believe that one of those 240's that you tried out at the Double 5 trial was mine. We've spoken briefly before. I live in the same town as you. My sister lives just down the road from you.

Just wondering how much your clutch arm has been lengthened by. Perhaps it was ok for worn plates but not for new chunkier ones.

My clutch plates are new. The clutch arm has been extended by Bill Pye, and he also supplied me with the corresponding bracket that bolts to the engine that the clutch cable end sits in. I've got the measurements if you want to compare, or alternatively you can come and have a look at the bike as we live so close.

On the subject of the brakes, I had both my hubs relined by Dave Renham. Can't remember how much exactly it cost me, but I think it was about £80/£90 for both hubs.

Walter

Hello Walter,

Does your sister live in the Glades?.....Your the chap who know's Roy on the Ossa? I know Roy lerks on TC (you said in so many words mate)....apologises if i've mistaken both you......

.....The extended clutch arm has about 20mm length added compared to my other standard arm. The new clutch plate faces/surfaces look very different from the ones i removed - is a bit difficult to discribe but i'll have a go: The cork plate (face) on the new plates are about three times wider the originals. I also noticed the first plate to go on was completely circular which is a bit weird. The steel plates have a hole in each, do you know what these holes do?.... i kind of think they allow oil through and in that case would you line all the holes on each steel plate - don't worry if you don't know.

Thanks for the Dave Renham contact, the front brake is okay and i've just fitted some new shoes in the back, so need to test them. The other guy who had a 240 his rear brake was almost as good as a modern....everyones rear brake was better than mine.

Cliff

Edited by spud, 03 August 2008 - 06:52 PM.


#8 spud

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Posted 03 August 2008 - 07:05 PM

View PostLee Harris, on Jul 31 2008, 09:45 PM, said:

Hmmm? The arrow on the cover helps you line it up with where you took it out.....

If you managed to screw against the springs then its ok. Put another way, if it was not ok, then the screws would be too short.

Open the clutch cover screw (BIG flat headscrewdriver) on the side engine case. There is a flathead adjuster and a locknut, Are these backed out?

How many plates did you take out? the same as you put in? Some repair kits came with one plate more to try curing the clutch slip.

Your actuation arm is extended and this may aiding your problem. If there are no obvoius clues, lay the bike over, take the clutch out again and measure the thickness of all the paltes comparted to the old. shouldnt be miore than 1mm.

If I had a dutch guy driving up the the sunn inn from dover on 22nd august , want to tag along and pay haklves with him on petrol. it would be nice to meet uop

Lee

Hello Lee,

I put the same amount of plates in as i took out and all the new plates went in fine. i bought the plates in a pack from Bob Wright (contact through R2w website). I didn't touch the locknut as i don't know what i'm doing....saying that it isn't all the way out. I did check the clutch after assembly and its working fine.

22 august, sorry for sounding stupid but is the event in the uk?

Thanks,
Cliff

#9 Lee Harris

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Posted 03 August 2008 - 09:02 PM

Cliff, the sun inn trial is in bilsdale yorkshire. It is organised by bill pye who is mr fantic himself. It starts at 15:00 on the 23 aug and also at 11:00 on the 24th and 25th. It is a fun trial...alll one route but still with some sections to sort the men from the boys. david Pye will also ride on a cub I think, he normally rides a 4rt in the northen experts.

I will come over with a german buddy , him on a std 300 , me on a 340 hopefully. Also erwin the durchguy on a 240. He could have space in his van if yer was interested in a 3 dayer. Drive up friday evening, stay in a motel in doncaster, the last 80 miles on saturday The motel if 40 for all 3 off us.

PM if you want to have a laff, its camping in the pub garden....

lee
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#10 waltergallons

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Posted 03 August 2008 - 10:55 PM

Spud

* Are you using an additional extension bracket (engine end of the clutch cable) which is needed if you have an lengthened clutch arm ? If you haven't and you've put new clutch plates in, I don't believe the cable will be long enough....but was probably ok for your old worn plates.

* Don't know why there are holes in the clutch plates.

* One tip that I can give you is that when you use the central clutch adjuster slotted scrw & nut, DON'T overtighten the nut. The screw is very hard / brittle and will shear off. The nut only needs to be 'nipped up', otherwise you'll break the screw like me.

Walter

#11 Lee Harris

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Posted 04 August 2008 - 07:31 AM

The metal plates are drilled so that the oil can flow between them quicker...easier clutch lift esp. when cold. The nut is dicicult to overtighten cos it can only be tightened against the engine compression. That way its difficult to Bu(?er when the clutch cover is on.
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