Milky Gear Oil

[2lls]

Hi all

i have a 06 rev3 250, had the clutch inner casing corrode (seems quite common) around the water pump,

replaced it with a new one, but i did use the old seals and bearings. next time out on the bike i noticed the oil was milky again, so i replaced the water pump oil seal with a new one, fresh oil in, but on starting the bike up the oil turned milky straight away. has any one got any ideas what the problem could be and how i can fix it. thanks in advance

phill

[dan williams]

Water is heavier then oil and will separate out and sit in the bottom nooks and crannies of the transmission. So even if you drain the oil you probably still have some water in there. Once the transmission is spinning again it will just emulsify back into the oil. Two things to try are to run the bike for a while to get the oil/water emulsified and drain it while it's still mixed. It won't get all of it but it will help. The other I've found is a good synthetic oil will tend not to emusify so easily. Because of the vents in the transmission and our habit of riding in rain and mud holes there's always going to be some water in the gearbox even if it doesn't come from the water pump. As long as a bike isn't left sitting for weeks at a time I don't think it does any damage.

[2lls]

thanks for the replies

i`ve just been down in the garage to check things on the bike, it has not lost any coolant from the rad this time but i did only run it for a short while earlier. whilst rebuilding i did check for any play or wear in the water pump shaft and it was fine.i put the new seal in with the spring side nearest the impeller as this was the way the original came out. i now use super cool as a coolant. i have just checked on the oil and it has cleared, it has been standing for about 4 hours, so i am hoping you guys are right in thinking that there is still bits of water left in the gear box from the previous leak. i will give it a couple of oil changes and test it over the weekend.

phill