[MIKEE]

Ok before i go ahead and hit this with a big hammer and chisel,has anyone got any tried and tested ways of removeing
the lower inner race of the head stock bearing.

[Jonathan Collier]

Plumbers freeze it spray stuff ! Freeze the race then a bit of light percusive maintenance (smack it with hammer). Watch out for flying shattered steel though.

[tombo46]

I always grind it with a dreml cutting disc, then crack it with a pair of mole grips.

Tom

[Stork955]

Gday, grind it much as possible, crack it ( I use a chisel) and knock it off. Use the old race to drive the new one on carefully. Or press the shaft out of the clamp, and press the new one back together all at once if you have a press. Pack them with grease inside the cage before fitting - Just wiping grease on the outside is not enough.

Cheers,

Stork

[JanDyb]

Hi

Did this a couple of weeks ago. Went to a car workshop where a friend of mine works. They had a tool for this. A kind of a "withdrawer" or "puller" (dont know the english word for this) and it was done in a minute or so..

Left the headstock in the freezer some hours and boiled the bearing packed in watertight plastic. When assembling the bearing just fell right in place without any need for "violence".

-Jan

[JanDyb]

Was going to change head stock bearings again today, and searched of course the forum to get some tips. Then I found this topic with my own tip...

Anyway I also found a video that showed pushing the stem through the lower triclamp. Tried it and it worked like a charm.



After changing no my 08 I thought I should check out how the 2011`s bearings looked like. Happy I did, cause the lower bearing on the under one year old bike was already full of rusty water!

Cheers

-Jan

[charliechitlins]

No love here for the old flame wrench?
Get it good and hot and it'll probably drop off.

[stevenorton]

what complete over complicated B*****ks that video is. There is a puller made by Sealy that removes the bearing without anything other than a 14 mm spanner.As for removing the adjustment ring with a hammer and punch, well..... They must have learnt at the school for Gorillas. Its too late now but I will take a pic of it tomorrow and post it on here.

[JanDyb]

stevenorton, on 01 November 2011 - 10:51 PM, said:

what complete over complicated B*****ks that video is. There is a puller made by Sealy that removes the bearing without anything other than a 14 mm spanner.As for removing the adjustment ring with a hammer and punch, well..... They must have learnt at the school for Gorillas. Its too late now but I will take a pic of it tomorrow and post it on here.

What?? Do You mean they are incompetent?? Didnt you read the disclaimer? It says: "The activities depicted are performed by trained professionals..."

I didnt have a puller at hand that fit, but had a press. It really did work well. Tried heating btw without any luck this time.

Looking forward to see a pic of the puller. But I wont need one now of course. I have decided to maintain the lubrication more often (guess what I decided last time too.. )

-Jan

[JSE]

JanDyb, on 01 November 2011 - 11:05 PM, said:

What?? Do You mean they are incompetent?? Didnt you read the disclaimer? It says: "The activities depicted are performed by trained professionals..."

I didnt have a puller at hand that fit, but had a press. It really did work well. Tried heating btw without any luck this time.

Looking forward to see a pic of the puller. But I wont need one now of course. I have decided to maintain the lubrication more often (guess what I decided last time too.. )

-Jan

I made a puller to use out at an event but I find a press is a quick and easy way to get the bearing race off. A piece of tubing with an ID slightly larger than the stem diameter will press the bearing race on the stem with no damage.

Jon

Attached image(s)

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[RichT]

Looks very organised,
Whats in the 'JSE Racing' can on the shelf, Have you got your own brand?

[JSE]

RichT, on 02 November 2011 - 06:09 PM, said:

Looks very organised,
Whats in the 'JSE Racing' can on the shelf, Have you got your own brand?

Nope. A much more sophisticated explanation. My cardboard can of safety wire was unraveling after use at a wet race venue so an old decal fixed it right up....

Jon

[copemech]

RichT, on 02 November 2011 - 06:09 PM, said:

Looks very organised,
Whats in the 'JSE Racing' can on the shelf, Have you got your own brand?

It is a can of BS! Hell yess he sells it! BS is available in different diameters, but a pound of BS costs the same!

I estimate 1 can of BS will last the average trials rider about 50 years, yet one might get a few more years out of a pound of BS in the .020 size as compared to the .025!

If you are a big BS'er, you might consider the .031 or .040 cans!

[JSE]

copemech, on 03 November 2011 - 02:43 AM, said:

It is a can of BS! Hell yess he sells it! BS is available in different diameters, but a pound of BS costs the same!
I estimate 1 can of BS will last the average trials rider about 50 years, yet one might get a few more years out of a pound of BS in the .020 size as compared to the .025!
If you are a big BS'er, you might consider the .031 or .040 cans!

Those who know me, know I ONLY use .032" Mil-spec annealed stainless steel BS, which I can buy REALLY cheap across the border in Texas as there is SO much of it there....

Jon

ps. Copey and I are old buddies and this is just Oklahoma hasseling Texas (it's a football thing).....

[smalley250]

copemech, on 03 November 2011 - 02:43 AM, said:

It is a can of BS! Hell yess he sells it! BS is available in different diameters, but a pound of BS costs the same!

I estimate 1 can of BS will last the average trials rider about 50 years, yet one might get a few more years out of a pound of BS in the .020 size as compared to the .025!

If you are a big BS'er, you might consider the .031 or .040 cans!

Wow! you can actually buy a can of Bull Sh!t. Only in a America