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Lacing Up Sherco Rear Wheel?


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#1 Sam

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 02:24 AM

I broke off all 4 rear disk bolt tabs on the hub. Half of the holes exist but I imagine it would be impossible to build them back up with weld then drill and tap?

So my question is has anyone laced a rear wheel on here, is it possible without a truing stand and dishing tool. Maybe just mount it back up in the swingarm for truing.

Or for the cost difference of purchasing a hub and spokes I should just buy a whole new wheel.

Anyone have a used one for sale? Wheel or hub for a 2007 Sherco. :rolleyes:

#2 MIKEE

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 06:48 AM

New hubs aren't that dear,,,about £65 and then the same again to get them built up...

Its best to use a turing stand and makes the job alot easyer...

#3 godzilla

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 08:44 AM

I have heard of people welding and re-tapping hubs.
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#4 Neo

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 09:37 AM

How bad is it?

Can you post up a close up photo of the four bolt holes?

Best of balance.
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#5 htrdoug

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 10:53 AM

No problem to do it in the swingarm,I just converted my Fantic 240 to a tubeless rear rim that way.Either order OE spokes or send samples to Buccannons. I think truing it in the swingarm works fine as you can center it easily. If you've not done one before take multiple pictures of the lacing pattern before you cut it apart.Mark the hub for the spokes that lead to either side of the valve stem,you want to make sure the valve stem stays between the groups of 4 spokes so you can reach the valve stem to air it up. Make sure you use "spoke prep" on the threads(an antisieze from either a bicycle shop or Buccannons)
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#6 Lee Harris

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 12:32 PM

your inbox is full. I wanted to pm you...
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#7 paullagrand

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 01:23 PM

I've done it successfully in the rear swing arm without a stand. It was not that bad. Especially if your rim is in good true to begin with. Just be carefully making sure the rim strip seats perfect or you wont hold air.

#8 JSE

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 03:31 PM

View PostSam, on Jun 25 2010, 09:24 PM, said:

I broke off all 4 rear disk bolt tabs on the hub. Half of the holes exist but I imagine it would be impossible to build them back up with weld then drill and tap?
So my question is has anyone laced a rear wheel on here, is it possible without a truing stand and dishing tool. Maybe just mount it back up in the swingarm for truing.
Or for the cost difference of purchasing a hub and spokes I should just buy a whole new wheel.
Anyone have a used one for sale? Wheel or hub for a 2007 Sherco. :rolleyes:

I'd probably get a new hub to be safe and it may even be cheaper in the long run. If you want to try it yourself,
just remember that it's a long, slow job to do it correctly the first time, but you'll learn a new skill in the process.

Truing can be done on the swingarm after the wheel is assembled although a truing stand makes it a lot easier.

If your rim is bent or warped, it will add a lot of extra work as you'll need to compensate during the truing process (if you can).

Check to see if the rim is "offset" or "centered" by looking at the wheel directly from the back of the bike and seeing if the
rim is to the left, right or center of the hub centerline. If it's offset, you'll need to measure how far to set the rim center out
from the hub center and on which side.

Most Trials models use centered rims and there will be two lengths of spokes. The longer spokes will go on the outside of the tabs on
the hub as they have to wrap around the outside of the tab. The shorter spokes will have their bend on the inside of the tab on the way
to the rim.

Spoke patterns for dirt bikes are almost always what's known as a "cross-four" pattern, which provides the best strength. If you look
at the wheel from the side, you'll see groups of two sets of crossed spokes close together. ie. "cross-four".

Buy a really good spoke wrench, as they are specially designed with a wide gripping surface that does not strip the nipple flats.

When you get to the final truing, you can tape a wire on the swingard to use as a wobble gauge. Sometimes a wide felt tip pen can
be held near the rim and will give a black band on the rim where the rim runs out and the center of the band is the area of greatest
run out. You'll want to give the nipple a few turns at the center of the band and a lesser number of turns proportionally to the nipples
going out from the center of the band. Wipe the pen mark off with a little solvent on a rag and repeat.

Jon

#9 copemech

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Posted 27 June 2010 - 03:23 AM

There is a bit of art to all this. There is definatly an offset on these. The drive side spokes are 6mm longer than the brake side, and tire clearance is critical at down to about 10-12 mm per side. Even less for the kickstand spring.

First off, if it came down to paying someone qualified to do it, I would. And when I had my rims anodized, I did, and the rear still came back all screwed up as they obviously did not take careful measurements of the offset to begin with.

These things are a geometry lesson in themselves, and as best I can tell, come all jacked up from the factory. It all does work, and mayby there is some obscure reason for it all, but when you look at these things closely there are several factors that go into the mix.

Firstly, the swingarm is not symmetrical.

Secondly, I do not think the snailcam adjusters are either.

Third, chain alignment is not straight.

Fourth, stock rear wheel does not center up with center of bike when snailcams are adjusted equally.

All my bikes have been this way, doubt it is an exception.


Now, all said, either this thing comes back exactly as set from factory, and just put it all back, or you are giong to have some tweaking to do.

As I had no choice, because the tire rubbed, I just started over out of neccessity. Trying to find the best balance between all evils here, I tried to find the best balance between chain alignment and center of tire, which means I run my jitsie snailcams about two notches higher on the brake side so the bike tracks straighter and the rear wheel is aligned with the chassis, then centered the tire between the swingarm sides by backing off one side of spokes and pulling up the other.

All said, lots of tweaking and old fashoined eye balling so things track as straight as possible. :rolleyes:
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#10 ZIPPY

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Posted 27 June 2010 - 11:37 PM

Sam,

Buy a new Rim setup like what is on the montesa. No more rim tape to deal with and it should come all true and ready to go.

Secondly, quit beating your bike to death, we want to see you at some MOTA competitions.

We miss you :rolleyes:
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#11 Sam

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 12:56 AM

For all the world to see, I miss you to Zippy!

The Montesa rim sounds great, but I'm sure out of my budget.

Hope to have this baby rolling for Vermontville.

#12 ZIPPY

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 05:11 PM

View PostSam, on Jun 27 2010, 08:56 PM, said:

For all the world to see, I miss you to Zippy!

The Montesa rim sounds great, but I'm sure out of my budget.

Hope to have this baby rolling for Vermontville.


And there are many of us that miss seeing Super Sherco Sam!!!

As far as budget goes just convince the little woman that this is a matter of utmost importance and that your life would be greatly enriched by the purchase of a new rear wheel. Yep I should have been either in advertising or a lawyer.

See ya at Vermontville!??
"You can't fix stupid...but it will heal (eventually)"

#13 tony27

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 07:30 PM

You got that wrong Zippy, should be that it's her life enriched :mellow:

#14 ZIPPY

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Posted 28 June 2010 - 10:54 PM

View Posttony27, on Jun 28 2010, 03:30 PM, said:

You got that wrong Zippy, should be that it's her life enriched :P


So true So true.............lapse of thinking on my part. :mellow:
"You can't fix stupid...but it will heal (eventually)"

#15 copemech

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Posted 30 June 2010 - 02:49 AM

Sam, just how does all that happen? :mellow:
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