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2009 GG 250 TXT Pro - hard starting


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Hello,

This appears to be a common thread on these bikes - as in they can be hard to start. My '09 250 TXT Pro just depresses me to be honest, it's getting to the point where I choose not got use it as it will play up at some point by not starting.

I've a KTM 200 Enduro bike and that's a dream to boot over in comparison!

The GG has got a 36D needle on the 3rd clip position from the top, a 118 main, a 33 idle and a 70 starting jet (I've tried a 90 in there with no success). Mixture screw is about 3 turns out from fully closed.

It does tend to start eventually with the choke on, but it's not exactly a first kick even in that scenario. The plug when we pulled it during it's last hissy fit was a very light tan (suggesting lean) but dry. From what I can recall the spark was OK last time I looked at it (trying not to shock myself whilst checking it). For some reason it's got a Ducati CDI on it, I'm assuming that's standard fit.

The main problem is that I've a busted knee cap and from my last outing on the GG the excessive kicking has tweaked the damned thing again so I'm nursing my right leg until it settles back down again... riding isn't too much of an issue and I wear enduro knee braces even for trials work just in case I bin it.

Anyway... just thought I'd ask for any pointers before I break out the rag in the gas tank and the box of matches.....

Regards,

RicTS.

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I think there is a mod for the choke jet for starting off cold, Jon should chime in here at some point. Another thing is putting the bike in about 5th gear and rocking the bike back and forth a couple times to take the piston over the top to get just a bit of things circulating prior to kicking over cold. Not sure if the 250 pro has a Kiehin or dellorto. :rolleyes:

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Check the carb float level. Remove carb and the bottom then hold upside down, the brass arm float should be 16mm from the carb base ie where it seats to the removed base. I have teaked mine to 15mm as to see if it improves cold starting which sometimes only starts if i lie the bike on its side to flood it.

Mine seems not to get enough fuel from cold so would like to know if you can alter the choke to aid the starting.

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I used to battle with starting my 2010 TXT Pro 300 but now it starts 1st or second kick at worst. Using the choke is a must if it has been standing for anything more than a short bit if you want to guarantee a start. The other trick is using a very forceful kick after getting the piston to TDC and using the full stroke of the kick start. Due to the suggestions on this forum I also use Iridium plugs- BPR5EIX and it also has helped. If you have your choke out and you are battling then my guess is you are not getting the engine to cycle over fast enough because of your busted knee. If I let someone else who doesn't ride a Gas Gas try and start my bike they will hardly ever get it to start first time because they do not kick it as hard as I do, partly because the Gas Gas has a very different feeling when kick starting compared to other bikes.

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The choke circuit only works if the throttle is closed and its common for folks to unwittingly open the throttle in their efforts to kick a Pro into life. Try holding the bars on the right side of the bike instead of the throttle grip. Standing on the bike when its leaning against a van, tree, wall, etc also makes things easier, as others have already said.

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The choke circuit only works if the throttle is closed and its common for folks to unwittingly open the throttle in their efforts to kick a Pro into life. Try holding the bars on the right side of the bike instead of the throttle grip. Standing on the bike when its leaning against a van, tree, wall, etc also makes things easier, as others have already said.

Agree. The "choke" circuit only really works when the throttle is closed. I doubt that changing the float level will have any affect on starting (choke on) as the choke circuit draws from the very bottom of the floatbowl (which would be unaffected by float level and would work with maybe only a teaspoon of fuel in the bowl).

A few thoughts on starting before I run out the door this morning and head for the Trials grounds to help set up for this weekends big Octobertest Trial (we expect a fair amount of rain-whoopee!):

NGK BPR5EIX set to .6mm (.024") is the best plug I've ever found for the GG and I've tested about ten+ different ones.

Starting technique is important and you may want to look at Jim Snell's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdM4qkAqywk . It is common to jab the boot at the kickstart, which not only shocks the poop out of the kickstart mechanism (and can break the idler gear)but transmits a huge shock to the knee and those of us with previous knee injuries (I knocked right kneecap completely off twice-Intercollegiate Judo, not motorcycle racing, which was relatively "safe" for me) will eventually experience problems. Think about your old Physics class, Trials bikes use massive flywheels that resist moving from rest (unlike KTM 200 Enduro engines) so instead of slamming the components together (that flywheel mass WILL resist moving) you want to have the kickstart rachet engaged at the top of the kickstart swing arc and then use body weight to get it spinning.

The #70 starter jet is o.k. (some earlier models came with #60 starter jets) I use a #80 (.031" drill) as I find it helps. The #33 pilot in your bike seems a little lean and maybe you might try a #36 or even a #38 pilot (I run a #38 in my Pro along with a #116 main but my engine has some unusual modifications). If my bike does not start first or second kick from a short rest, I use the choke and it will fire easily. For some reason I can't explain scientifically, the GG's seem to be "cold-blooded" in my experience, and may need the choke after a short cool-off.

Cheers and hope this helps a bit.

Jon

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My 2009 300 and lot of others I know start 1st or 2nd kick. I just thought I'd add this as it looks from the thread that they are all a B1tch to start. They do take a bit of practice to get it right and do take a bigger kick than all the other bikes. But don't be fooled in to kicking the hell out of it. Get to TDC and a solid push with all your weight rather than a big boot with the piston anywhere in the stroke. Like has been said above I have to start my bike for not gas gas riders wanting a shot.

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Make sure your kick start pedal is mounted far enough to the front on the axis. So that once you get the play out of the travel and the piston is at TDC, you still have enough travel to give a firm kick. Personally I found 11h o'clock a good start position of the pedal to start the kick. 9h is far to low and will give only about 90

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Make sure your kick start pedal is mounted far enough to the front on the axis. So that once you get the play out of the travel and the piston is at TDC, you still have enough travel to give a firm kick. Personally I found 11h o'clock a good start position of the pedal to start the kick. 9h is far to low and will give only about 90

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Cheers for the replies...

There's probably a number of things which I need to look at - technique, as I suspect I'm not getting engine spinning over, which adding into it a standard electrode plug won't be aiding my efforts.

I'll check the float height & I also have an #80 jet which I can sling in whilst I'm there, and I'll double check the plug gap.

The head spacer sounds like a good fall back - does it have any side effects apart from a loss of power, which doesn't really matter to me.

RTS

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I have an 09 300 pro which will start easily with the following technique.

Put bike in gear

with clutch out pull bike bacwards so piston goes to TDC

pull in clutch

kick

I now use this method every time I start the bike warm or cold - much easier and a lot less stress on kickstart assembly

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Anyway... just thought I'd ask for any pointers before I break out the rag in the gas tank and the box of matches.....

Regards,

RicTS.

Another trick I seem to show fellow gasgas owners here in the states is, to place the bike in gear (preferably 3rd or 4th) put on the choke, (as stated above DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE) rock it back and forth (do this with enthusiasm at least 6 times) It seems to be causing the piston to go up and down and this pre charges the cylinder. For me, even when cold as "well diggers a***" out, it will start in 2 kicks (for me usually 1). if not repeat the rocking process.

If nothing else the routine saves wear and tear on your knee, kick lever and innards of the starting system.

My pop figured this one out, works great on any pro model, hell about any bike (if it doesnt flood easily).

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Hi Gents,

Following a night with rubber gloves & a spinning of the spanners in the company of another forum member Rick Torkington, aka Torky / SilverFox (not sure what his user ID is on here!) we sort of have a result.... it's consistnant, but I

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